Is Your Electrical Panel Ready for a 5-Ton R-32 System? Let's Break It Down

👋 Hey There from Mike

Hey, it’s Mike again—your friendly HVAC tech with a toolbelt and a healthy respect for what electricity can do to your eyebrows if you’re not careful ⚡😅.

Now listen, I know most folks don’t spend a lot of time thinking about their electrical panel. If the lights come on, the microwave nukes your coffee, and the TV fires up for Sunday football, all seems fine. But once you start talking about installing a 5-ton AC and gas furnace combo, suddenly that panel matters a lot.

These systems can draw serious amps, and if your panel isn’t rated or wired right, you’re not just risking tripped breakers—you’re inviting fire hazards, insurance headaches, and failed inspections.

Let’s break it all down in regular English: how many amps you need, what kind of breakers to use, how to know if your setup is outdated, and what to do if your panel isn’t ready for a big HVAC upgrade.

 

🔌 What a 5-Ton HVAC System Pulls From Your Panel

Let’s start with some basics. A 5-ton air conditioner like the Goodman GLXS4BA6010 paired with a 100,000 BTU GR9T961005CN gas furnace is one serious setup. The air conditioner condenser alone typically pulls 28–35 amps, and when paired with a variable-speed blower motor in the furnace, you’re looking at a total system load that could hit 40–50 amps—especially at startup.

Here’s a quick look at typical electrical specs:

If you’re replacing an older system, your existing breakers may not be sized right for this level of demand.

For more details on proper HVAC breaker sizes, check out this guide from The Spruce on breaker sizing for HVAC equipment.

 

🧯 Why Electrical Panel Size Matters

Here’s the golden rule: your electrical panel must have enough available amps to supply your new HVAC system without overloading the rest of your home.

Most modern homes have:

• 100 amp service (older homes)

• 150 amp service (mid-sized homes)

• 200 amp service (newer or upgraded homes)

A 5-ton AC system should ideally be installed in a home with a 200 amp panel, especially if you’ve got electric ovens, EV chargers, a hot tub, or other high-load gear. Anything less, and you risk blowing breakers every time the compressor kicks on.

To find out your panel rating, open the door and look for a label that says something like “Main Breaker: 200A” at the top. If you're unsure, have an electrician confirm your total service capacity—not just space on the panel, but actual amperage from the utility.

For an overview on panel ratings and home upgrades, I recommend Bob Vila’s quick guide to electrical panel upgrades.

 

⚠️ Red Flags That Your Panel Can’t Handle It

If you’re thinking of installing a 5-ton R-32 system, here’s what to check before calling your installer:

🧲 You Have a Fuse Box (Not a Breaker Panel)

That’s a hard no. These systems need modern breakers with overcurrent protection.

🔌 Panel Feels Warm or Buzzes

Danger sign. Could indicate arcing or overload. Call a licensed electrician immediately.

💡 Lights Flicker When AC Turns On

This means voltage drop—your panel might be overwhelmed by startup surge from the compressor.

🔒 You’re Out of Breaker Slots

If your panel is physically full, you may need a subpanel or full panel upgrade.

Want to nerd out a little? The National Electrical Code (NEC) Article 440 covers the specifics of AC equipment, overcurrent protection, and sizing—though it's written more for electricians than homeowners.

 

🔧 Installing Your 5-Ton System Safely

Once your panel is verified, here's what your HVAC installer (or licensed electrician) needs to do:

✅ Install a Dedicated 240V Circuit for the Condenser

Typically a 2-pole 50A breaker running to an outdoor disconnect box, rated for the condenser's specs. The wire used is usually #6 THHN copper.

✅ Install a Separate 120V Circuit for the Furnace

Usually a 15A or 20A single-pole breaker, depending on blower motor draw. This powers the control board, ignitor, and blower motor.

✅ Use Proper Disconnects and Labels

Every outdoor unit should have an external blade-style disconnect for servicing, per NEC 440.14. And every breaker should be clearly labeled in the panel. It’s not just helpful—it’s code.

Need a wiring diagram? Goodman and most major brands include them on the inside of the furnace panel cover and on the outdoor condenser. Don’t throw those away!

 

🔌 What If My Panel Isn't Big Enough?

No need to panic—but it might mean you need one of these:

⚡ Subpanel

A smaller breaker panel that draws from your main service, often used to create more breaker slots or isolate HVAC equipment.

🔁 Load-Shedding System

If your main panel is 100A and can’t be upgraded, a smart load-shedding relay system (like Schneider or Leviton’s units) can temporarily shut off non-essential circuits during HVAC startup.

📈 Full Panel Upgrade

If your service entrance wiring is outdated, or your panel is 60–100 amps, it’s time to consider a full upgrade to 200 amps. This involves your electric company, a permit, and about $2,000–$4,000—but it’s an investment in future-proofing your house.

HomeGuide has a cost breakdown if you’re budgeting a panel upgrade along with your HVAC install.

 

💡 Bonus: Other Electrical Upgrades Worth Considering

While you’ve got the electrician on-site, consider:

• Whole-home surge protector

• Dedicated outlet for condensate pump

• Upgraded thermostat wire for smart control (e.g., ecobee)

• Battery backup or generator transfer switch

The goal is to make sure your electrical infrastructure matches your HVAC power draw, especially for high-efficiency systems that cycle frequently.

 

🔍 Final Pre-Install Checklist

Here’s what I tell every customer before we install a 5-ton system:

✅ Panel is 200 amps or has room for a 50A 2-pole breaker
✅ Existing breakers and wiring are rated for R-32 unit’s MCA & MOCP
✅ Outdoor disconnect is rated and grounded
✅ Thermostat wiring is intact and supports multi-stage or smart systems
✅ No visible corrosion, buzzing, or overheating in the panel

Still unsure? Many electricians offer panel inspections for $100–$150, and it could save you from frying a new $4,000 condenser.

 

👋 Goodbye from Mike

Look, I’ve seen the aftermath of mismatched electrical and HVAC systems—and it ain’t pretty. Burnt wires, melted breakers, fried control boards. It’s the kind of thing that keeps a tech like me up at night.

But when it’s done right? You get smooth starts, no flickering lights, and a rock-solid foundation for a system that’ll serve you for 15–20 years.

So before you plug in that 5-ton R-32 powerhouse, give your panel a check-up. It’s like checking your tires before a cross-country road trip. You don’t have to... until you do.

If you’re still shopping for a new system, check out The Furnace Outlet’s lineup of 5-ton R-32 systems—they’ve got models with all the specs, no markup, and shipping that won’t take a month.

Want to know more about refrigerant for these systems? Visit: Low Cool, High Bills? Guide to R-32 Refrigerant Problems in 5-Ton Systems.

Until next time, keep your circuits clean and your amperage steady.
—Mike 👨🔧