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Why Isn’t Your Goodman System Cooling or Heating Right? Tony’s Fast Troubleshooting Checklist

When a Goodman system stops heating or cooling the way it should, most homeowners assume the worst. They picture expensive compressors, fried boards, dead motors, major breakdowns — the big stuff. Tony knows better. After decades of crawling in attics, squeezing into furnace closets, hauling condensers through muddy backyards, and answering late-night emergency calls, he’ll tell you the same thing every time:

“Most problems start small. You find the small problem, you fix the big comfort issue.”

This is the real troubleshooting guide Tony gives homeowners. Not the fluffy version, not the “call a pro every time” version, and not the confusing technical manual. This is the straightforward, field-tested, step-by-step checklist that solves the majority of real-world Goodman system failures long before you need a wrench or a gauge set.

Let’s go step by step — the way Tony diagnoses systems in the field.

1. Start With the Thermostat — Half of All Problems Begin Here

Homeowners don’t think about their thermostat. It’s small, looks harmless, and just hangs there on the wall. But Tony has replaced enough thermostats to know: your thermostat is the boss. If it gives the wrong commands, nothing else works.

So step one — always, always — is to walk to the thermostat.

✔ Is the system in the correct mode?

Tony has fixed countless “broken” systems simply because the thermostat was set to OFF, FAN ONLY, or stuck in HEAT during summer.

Summer → COOL
Winter → HEAT
Never use ON unless testing airflow. Use AUTO.

✔ Adjust the temperature by at least 4–6 degrees

A Goodman system won’t always respond instantly.
Drop the temp in cooling or raise it in heating and wait 3 minutes.
If nothing happens, that’s a red flag.

✔ Check the batteries

Dead thermostat batteries are one of the top causes of “dead AC” calls.
If your thermostat screen is dim, flickering, or blank → change the batteries.

✔ Override the schedule

Smart thermostats sometimes override your settings.
If you use Nest, Ecobee, Honeywell, or any learning thermostat, temporarily disable:

auto schedule
eco mode
sleep profiles
home/away logic

Tony says it plainly:
“If the thermostat isn’t right, the system doesn’t stand a chance.”

(Reference: Residential HVAC Load Calculation Standards)

2. Now Check the Filter — The #1 Cause of Goodman Cooling/Heating Problems

Tony has replaced coils, blowers, compressors, control boards — you name it — because a $10 filter was ignored.

✔ Can you see light through the filter?

If not, it’s restricting airflow.
And if airflow is restricted:

the AC coil freezes
the furnace overheats
the blower strains
airflow becomes weak
the system short cycles

How filters directly affect cooling:

Less airflow = warmer air at vents
Low airflow = frozen coil
Frozen coil = NO cooling whatsoever
Goodman systems need 400 CFM per ton

How filters directly affect heating:

Poor airflow = heat exchanger gets too hot
Furnace trips a safety switch
Short cycling or blowing cold air

Tony’s rule:
Replace the filter every 30–45 days (1-inch filter)
Replace every 3–6 months (4-inch filter)

Bad filters cause more service calls than anything else.
Tony could retire early if people just changed their filters.

(Reference: Air Distribution and Duct Sizing Reference)

3. Step Outside — The Condenser Tells the Story

If your Goodman AC or heat pump isn’t cooling, go outside and look at the condenser.
This is where Tony finds half the issues within the first minute.

✔ Is the outdoor unit running?

If not:

thermostat issue
disconnect pulled
breaker tripped
board failure
capacitor issue

✔ Is the fan spinning?

If the fan won’t spin but the unit hums → bad capacitor.

CAPACITORS FAIL CONSTANTLY.
They’re the “weakest link” in any AC system.

✔ Is the outdoor coil dirty?

If the coil is clogged with:

grass
dirt
cottonwood
leaves
dryer lint

…your system will NOT cool.

A dirty condenser causes:

high pressures
poor cooling
compressor strain
short cycling
high energy bills

✔ Check around the unit

You need 18–24 inches of clearance on all sides.

Blocked airflow = instant efficiency loss.

(Reference: Mechanical Noise Prevention and System Balancing Principles)

4. Check the Indoor Air Handler or Furnace — Where Most Hidden Problems Live

Inside is where the magic happens.
This is where Tony finds the tricky problems homeowners overlook.

Cooling Mode Checks

✔ Is the blower running?
✔ Is there ice on the refrigerant lines?
✔ Is there ice on the coil?
✔ Is the drain pan overflowing?
✔ Is there water around the furnace?

Ice = bad airflow or refrigerant issue
Water around furnace = clogged drain or blocked trap

If the blower isn’t running:

capacitor failure
blower motor issue
board failure
wiring fault

Heating Mode Checks

✔ Does the furnace click?
✔ Does it ignite?
✔ Does it shut down quickly?
✔ Do you hear the blower after ignition?
✔ Is the furnace blowing cold?

Short cycling = dirty filter, blocked duct, or failed sensor
No ignition = bad ignitor or flame sensor
Cold air = blower only mode, failed heating sequence

Tony watches the furnace ignition sequence like a detective:

inducer motor starts
pressure switch closes
ignitor glows
gas valve opens
flame lights
blower starts

If any step fails, the furnace won’t heat.

(Reference: HVAC Noise and Acoustics Guidelines)

5. Check the Drain Line — The Silent AC Killer

Every cooling-day operation produces water — lots of it.
If the drain line clogs, your system shuts down or floods.

Signs of a clogged drain:

AC won’t turn on
water in auxiliary pan
musty smell
gurgling noise near furnace
float switch tripped

Fix it by:

flushing with hot water and vinegar
clearing the trap
checking the float switch
ensuring slope is correct

Tony sees hundreds of AC failures every summer caused by nothing more than a clogged drain.

(Reference: Home Insulation and Envelope Performance Manual)

6. Check the Breakers & Disconnect — The Simple Stuff Saves Money

Tony always checks breakers before touching the equipment.

✔ Indoor furnace/air handler breaker

✔ Outdoor AC/heat pump breaker

✔ Disconnect box outside

If the breaker is tripped:

capacitor failure
compressor locked
shorted motor
wiring fault
power surge

Never force the breaker.
If it trips again — call a tech.

7. Check for Airflow Obstructions Throughout the Home

Goodman systems rely heavily on proper airflow.
If air can’t move, you get:

hot rooms
cold rooms
weak airflow
coil freezing
furnace overheating
noisy vents

Tony checks every vent and return.

✔ Are vents closed?

Kids love closing vents.
Bad idea — it raises static pressure.

✔ Are returns blocked?

Furniture, laundry baskets, curtains — all airflow killers.

✔ Are supply vents blocked?

Couches and rugs cause major airflow problems.

✔ Do you hear whistling at registers?

That’s a sign of high static pressure.
High static = low airflow = bad performance.

A Goodman system needs room to breathe.

(Reference: Air Distribution and Duct Sizing Reference)

8. Refrigerant Issues — Don’t Touch Gauges, Just Observe Symptoms

You will never hear Tony tell a homeowner to check refrigerant levels.
That requires EPA certification.

But Tony WILL tell you how to spot refrigerant issues without tools.

Signs of low refrigerant:

ice on coil
suction line not cold
poor cooling
long run times
bubbling noise
hissing noise
warm air from vents

Signs of overcharge:

loud buzzing
short cycling
hot supply air
high energy bills

Important:

Goodman systems do NOT “use up refrigerant.”
If it’s low, it’s leaking.

(Reference: Equipment Matching and System Compatibility Guidelines)

9. Heating Problems: Goodman Furnace Fast Diagnostics

If your Goodman furnace is not heating, Tony checks these first:

✔ Blower Door Switch

A loose door stops the furnace instantly.

✔ Flame Sensor

Dirty flame sensors cause furnace shutdown within seconds.

✔ Ignitor

If it doesn’t glow, you’ll never get heat.

✔ Pressure Switch

Blocked flue or clogged condensate = no ignition.

✔ Inducer Motor

If it’s noisy or weak, furnace won’t start.

✔ Gas Valve

Failed valves stop heat entirely.

✔ Airflow

Low airflow overheats the furnace → shuts down.

Tony has fixed thousands of furnaces by cleaning a $10 flame sensor.

10. Heat Pump Issues — For Homes Without a Furnace

Heat pumps cool and heat using the same coil.
So when they fail, the symptoms tell Tony exactly where to look.

✔ Outdoor unit runs, but no heat

→ Reversing valve problem

✔ Outdoor unit covered in ice

→ Defrost cycle failure

✔ Cold air from vents in heat mode

→ Backup heat strips not engaging

✔ Outdoor unit makes a swooshing sound

→ Normal defrost (don’t panic)

✔ Outdoor fan stops during heating

→ Part of normal defrost sequence

Heat pumps are efficient, but they require precise control logic.
If one part fails → comfort disappears quickly.

11. Duct Problems — The Hidden Cause of 60% of Comfort Complaints

Ductwork causes more heating/cooling issues than the equipment.
Goodman systems are airflow machines.
Without proper ductwork, they cannot do their job.

Tony looks for:

undersized return
leaky supply plenum
crushed flex ducts
disconnected attic sections
poorly designed transitions
long runs without support

Static pressure should stay under 0.6 in. w.c.
Above that, airflow collapses.

If you feel “weak vents,” 90% of the time it’s a duct issue — not the Goodman unit.

12. Electrical Issues — Small Parts, Big Problems

Electrical failures are common but fixable.

Tony checks:

capacitors
relays
contractors
control boards
transformers
thermostat wiring

Signs of electrical issues:

clicking
buzzing
no fan
intermittent startup
burning smell
blown fuses
tripped breakers

If you smell electrical burning → turn the system off immediately.

13. Tony’s One-Minute Diagnostic Test

Tony teaches every homeowner this fast trick because it works on 90% of systems.

Step 1:

Put your hand on the large insulated copper pipe outside.

In cooling → cold
In heat pump heating → warm

Step 2:

Put your hand on the small copper line.

In cooling → warm
In heating → cool

If the lines aren’t the right temperatures → refrigerant flow issue.

Fast, simple, accurate.

14. When to Call a Professional: Tony’s Cut-Off Points

Tony believes homeowners should handle basic checks — but not dangerous ones.

Call a pro if you see:

ice on the coil
breaker keeps tripping
electrical burning smell
water leaking everywhere
no airflow at all
refrigerant leak signs
loud metallic noises
furnace ignition failures
repeated shutdowns
high utility bills suddenly
heat pump frosting over outside

Goodman systems are reliable.
If something is seriously wrong, a tech needs to dig in.

15. Tony’s Final Troubleshooting Verdict

After thousands of installs and service calls, Tony sums it up like this:

✔ 50% of Goodman problems = airflow

✔ 20% = drain line

✔ 15% = thermostat

✔ 10% = electrical

✔ 5% = refrigerant

Most Goodman systems are NOT broken — they’re restricted, blocked, dirty, or misconfigured.

His rule:

“Check the easy stuff first — it fixes the problem most of the time.”

When you follow Tony’s troubleshooting flow, you save time, money, frustration, and avoid unnecessary service calls. And if there is a real issue, you’ll know exactly what to tell the technician — so the repair is fast and accurate.

In the next blog, noise levels will be discussed by Tony.

Tags: Tony’s toolbox talk