What’s the Best Spot in the Wall? Height, Placement & Airflow Tips from Mike

What’s the Best Spot in the Wall? Height, Placement & Airflow Tips from Mike

When it comes to installing a through-the-wall air conditioner like the GE AJEQ12DWJ, most homeowners think the brand, BTUs, and features matter the most. But I’ll tell you something almost no one talks about: placement is just as important as the unit you choose.

Put a great AC in the wrong spot and you’ll get:

  • uneven cooling

  • noisy operation

  • poor airflow

  • hot and cold spots

  • higher power bills

  • premature wear on the compressor

Put an average AC in the right spot and it’ll feel like you upgraded to a premium model. Placement makes that much of a difference.

Today I’m going to walk you through exact wall height, ideal room position, airflow angles, how far the air should travel, and the mistakes I see homeowners make constantly. This is the stuff technicians learn through years of installing units in real homes—bedrooms, offices, apartments, workshops, and everything in between.


1. The #1 Rule: Don’t Just “Pick a Wall”—Pick the Right Wall

Homeowners tend to install through-the-wall ACs where it’s easiest:

  • shortest distance to the outside

  • closest to an electrical outlet

  • spot where an old unit existed

But the right location considers:

  • airflow direction

  • heat load in the room

  • furniture layout

  • ceiling height

  • window sunlight

  • doorways and vents

  • noise levels for sleeping areas

Your AC shouldn’t work around your furniture.
Your furniture should work around your AC.

Let’s break it down.


2. Ideal Height for Installing a Through-the-Wall AC

Most wall units land between 18 and 48 inches off the floor, but the sweet spot is very specific.

Mike’s Ideal Height: 24–36 inches from the floor

Why?

  • This height gives the best balance of airflow spread across the room.

  • Cool air naturally sinks → you don’t want the unit too low.

  • Heat from the electric coil distributes more evenly when it's not installed near the ceiling.

  • It reduces noise transfer as the unit doesn’t blast right at head level when you're sitting or sleeping.

Reference: HVAC Air Distribution and Comfort Standards


Why Not Higher? (Above 48”)

If the unit is too high:

  • cool air dumps down the wall instead of projecting forward

  • airflow circulation suffers

  • thermostat misreads room temperature

  • heat gets trapped up near the ceiling

You end up with a system that short cycles, freezes up, or constantly runs on high because the thermostat thinks the room is warmer than it is.


Why Not Lower? (Below 18”)

If installed too low:

  • cool air immediately pools at the floor

  • hot air remains high and unconditioned

  • your energy use jumps

  • the unit works harder, louder, longer

Most rooms cool unevenly with a low wall unit.


3. The Best Wall in the Room (And the Worst)

I’ve installed enough wall ACs to say this confidently:

Best Spot: The Longest Unbroken Wall in the Room

This gives:

  • maximum air throw

  • balanced circulation

  • stable airflow without hitting corners

  • minimal turbulence

Reference: Residential Airflow Optimization Principles


Worst Spot: A Narrow Wall or Corner Wall

Here’s what happens:

  • airflow hits the adjacent corner → bounces back

  • creates turbulence and “dead spots”

  • increases sound

  • reduces effective cooling

Avoid corner walls at all costs.


4. Where Should the Air Blow? (Direction Matters More Than Most People Realize)

Most homeowners don’t think about where the cold air is going—but this is one of the biggest factors in comfort.

Ideal Airflow Target: Across the Longest Direction of the Room

So if your room is:

  • 12 ft × 18 ft → point air toward the 18 ft side

  • 10 ft × 14 ft → aim toward the 14 ft side

Long-throw airflow cools the entire space evenly.


Never Blow Directly Toward:

  • your bed

  • your couch

  • your dining table

  • your workstation

Why?

Because it feels like a cold draft, not cooling.
You end up raising the temperature — which defeats the whole purpose.


Avoid Blowing Air at:

  • curtains

  • plants

  • tall cabinets

  • wall corners

These deflect air and cause loud airflow noise.

Reference: Indoor Climate Zoning and Load Distribution Practices


5. Sunlight Exposure: Install Opposite the Hot Wall

Every home has one “trouble wall” — the one that gets hammered by afternoon sun. You never want to install the AC directly under that sun-load because the AC will constantly fight the heat pouring in.

Best practice:

Install the unit on a wall that receives the least direct sunlight.

This helps maintain even temperature and reduces compressor strain.


6. Room Layout: Where NOT to Install the Unit

There are four “bad” wall zones almost every homeowner underestimates.


6.1 Behind Furniture

I’ve seen units installed behind:

  • couches

  • dressers

  • headboards

  • bookshelves

Terrible idea.

Furniture blocks airflow.
Blocked airflow makes the AC louder and hotter.
Louder and hotter means it fails early.


6.2 Too Close to a Doorway

Doors cause pressure fluctuations.
Airflow gets interrupted constantly.
The AC short-cycles more often.


6.3 Directly Across from a Large Window

Sunlit glass heats air → warm air races across the floor → directly into the AC’s intake.

The thermostat gets tricked.
Your energy bill goes up.


6.4 Near Electronics or Computers

Electronics dump heat constantly.
The AC will overcompensate.
Temperature control gets uneven.


7. Wall Structure: What’s Safe and What’s Not

This part trips up DIY installers.

You absolutely cannot cut into:

  • load-bearing support beams

  • plumbing walls

  • electrical service walls

  • exterior structural pillars

Follow Wall Penetration and Structural Placement Guidelines for safety.

If you’re not 100% sure → call a pro for wall scanning.


8. Outdoor Side: Clearance, Venting & Noise

Outside placement matters just as much as the interior.

You need:

  • at least 12–16 inches of rear clearance

  • free airflow around the exhaust

  • no bushes, fences, or obstructions

If the exhaust can’t breathe → the compressor overheats.

Reference: HVAC Installation Safety and Clearance Regulations


9. Mike’s Foolproof Placement Formula

Here is the exact rule I use on every job:

Wall AC Placement Formula

  1. Longest interior wall

  2. 24–36 inches above floor level

  3. Not near corners

  4. Air blowing down the longest dimension

  5. Not directly facing furniture

  6. Not facing tall window glass

  7. With clean outside clearance

Follow these seven steps and your AC will run quieter, faster, and more efficiently.


10. When You Absolutely Need a Different Spot

Sometimes perfect placement just isn’t possible. In those cases, Mike recommends:

  • adding airflow deflectors

  • using angled louvers to direct air diagonally

  • adding room fans to balance circulation

  • upgrading insulation on sun-heavy walls

  • placing rugs or curtains to soften acoustics

Small tweaks fix big problems.


11. Final Word from Mike: Placement Makes or Breaks Comfort

You can buy the best wall AC in the world — but if you stick it:

  • too low

  • too high

  • in a corner

  • behind furniture

  • in a sun-baked part of the room

  • or in an echo chamber

…it’ll feel like a weak, noisy, inefficient unit.

But install it:

  • 24–36 inches up

  • on a long wall

  • with clear airflow

  • aimed toward the long side of the room

  • away from sunlight

  • and with proper outdoor ventilation

…and it will feel like you magically leveled it up into a premium cooling system.

Placement isn’t just important.
It’s everything.

Cooling it with mike

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