The Truth About Horizontal Coil Installs:
Why Coil Orientation Makes or Breaks Airflow
(Mike Tells You What Actually Matters Up There)
If you’ve ever crawled through a 140°F attic with a flashlight in your mouth, balancing on joists while trying not to fall through drywall, you already know:
Horizontal coil installs are a different beast.
They’re harder.
They’re tighter.
They’re hotter.
They’re more sensitive to mistakes.
And they WILL make or break the performance of your Goodman 3-ton R-32 system (GLXS4BA3610 + CHPTA4230C3 coil).
The truth is simple:
You can have the best equipment in the world and still get terrible cooling if the horizontal coil is installed wrong.
So today, we’re diving into:
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airflow
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drainage
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coil pitch
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static pressure
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line set routing
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TXV performance
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attic heat load
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and everything a contractor won’t tell you…
…because most people don’t even know horizontal installs have their own set of rules.
Let’s get into it — the Mike way.
1. Horizontal Coils Move Air Differently — And Most Installers Ignore That
Horizontal airflow is NOTHING like vertical airflow.
In a vertical coil, air moves down through the coil evenly.
In a horizontal coil, air moves across the coil — and if that coil isn’t positioned perfectly:
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half the coil doesn’t get air
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humidity removal drops
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coil saturation becomes uneven
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static pressure spikes
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the TXV hunts like crazy
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efficiency tanks
This is why airflow must follow design principles similar to those in the [Directional Air Distribution Engineering Note], which clearly states horizontal coils need consistent lateral airflow to maintain proper heat transfer.
Air wants to take the easiest path.
In a horizontal setup, that means it will bypass entire sections of the coil if the installation is sloppy.
2. Coil Pitch Is NOT Optional — It’s Mandatory for Drainage
Horizontal coils must be pitched ¼” to ½” toward the drain.
Why?
Because:
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condensate MUST flow downhill
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if it doesn’t, it pools in the pan
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pooled water hits the coil
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coil re-evaporates water into the airflow
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humidity skyrockets
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mold forms
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pan overflows
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ceiling gets soaked
The [EPA Approved HVAC Condensate Removal Guideline] is crystal-clear: improper coil pitch is one of the top causes of water damage in horizontal systems.
A perfectly level coil = a disaster waiting to happen.
A properly pitched coil = reliable drainage and longer coil life.
3. Horizontal Coils Need Wider Plenums — Or You Lose Half Your Airflow
You cannot cram a horizontal coil into a tiny plenum and expect perfect airflow.
You need:
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wide transitions
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smooth radius turns
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no sudden restrictions
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no directional turbulence
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no bottlenecks
According to the [Residential Supply Plenum Transition Standard], horizontal coils require:
at least 1:3 transition ratio
for laminar airflow across the coil face.
If you violate that?
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the center of the coil does all the work
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the outer edges barely cool
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coil temperature becomes uneven
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TXV performance becomes unstable
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efficiency falls off a cliff
This is one of the most common causes of “my 3-ton feels like a 2-ton.”
4. Horizontal Coils Create More Static Pressure Than Vertical Installs — Unless You Fix the Ducts
Horizontal coils have a wider face area but they also introduce more directional resistance.
Add in:
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long flex runs
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attic duct heat
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poor return size
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single return grilles
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crushed insulation
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tight furnace closets
…and static pressure skyrockets.
Static pressure is the #1 killer of:
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airflow
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SEER2 efficiency
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coil performance
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humidity removal
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compressor life
This is why the [Air Handler External Static Pressure Performance Table] warns that horizontal applications need larger return ducts than vertical.
Horizontal coil = more resistance
More resistance = more blower work
More blower work = lower efficiency
Unless the ducts are upgraded, that 15.2 SEER2 system becomes a 10–12 SEER2 system in real use.
5. Horizontal Coils Must Be Installed With Correct Airflow Direction (Yes, It Matters)
There’s a reason every Goodman coil has an airflow arrow.
Horizontal airflow direction is essential because:
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the coil structure is asymmetrical
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the distributor tubes are arranged for specific airflow
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the pan is sloped for one direction only
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the TXV is positioned for optimal refrigerant distribution
Install it backward and you get:
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water blowing into ducts
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TXV hunting
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20–30% capacity loss
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high head pressure
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uneven coil saturation
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temperature swings
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higher humidity
This is why the [Goodman Horizontal Coil Airflow Orientation Bulletin] specifically warns installers against flipping coils just to “make the duct fit.”
Orientation is not optional.
6. Attic Temperatures Destroy Horizontal Coils Faster Than Vertical Units
Horizontal coils are usually installed:
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in attics
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above garages
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in crawlspaces
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in tight mechanical closets
These areas get HOT.
When the coil cabinet heats up:
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suction pressure changes
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liquid line temp rises
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saturation point shifts
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TXV reacts aggressively
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compressor amps rise
This is documented clearly in the [Attic Ambient Temperature Impact Study], which shows coil performance drops 12–18% when cabinet temps exceed 120°F.
Horizontal coils in hot attics MUST have:
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insulated cabinets
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insulated plenums
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sealed seams
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proper airflow
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proper attic ventilation
Otherwise, they underperform — every single time.
7. Horizontal Coils Are More Sensitive to Line Set Routing
R-32 refrigerant is HIGHLY sensitive to:
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line set slope
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vertical lift
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horizontal run length
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trap placement
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heat exposure
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brazing technique
And horizontal coils usually have more complicated routing because they’re in tight attic corners or crawlspaces.
Per the [Refrigerant Piping Best Practices for A2L Systems], improper routing can cause:
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refrigerant migration
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oil pooling
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TXV starvation
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compressor overheating
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throttling noise
A badly routed line set can drop capacity by 10–20%.
Installers rarely admit this — but I’ve fixed too many bad installs to ignore it.
8. Horizontal Coils Need PERFECT Air Sealing — Or You Lose 10–30% Cooling
When air leaks around the coil cabinet:
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hot attic air enters the system
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return air pulls in dusty air
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humidity spikes
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static pressure rises
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temperature drop across the coil shrinks
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energy efficiency dies
The [Residential Air Leakage & Return Infiltration Assessment] shows horizontal coils lose more efficiency from leaks than vertical coils because:
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they’re surrounded by hot air
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they’re typically insulated poorly
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gravity pulls in warm attic air
A $5 roll of foil tape can save you hundreds in electric bills.
9. Why Goodman's 3.5-Ton Coil Is a Lifesaver for Horizontal Installs
This system uses a 3.5-ton coil with a 3-ton condenser because:
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it reduces static
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it increases airflow
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it improves humidity removal
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it helps the TXV stabilize
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it reduces attic heat impact
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it improves real SEER2 retention
Horizontal coils NEED that extra surface area to overcome attic conditions and airflow restrictions.
This is why homeowners with horizontal installs benefit more from oversized coils than ANY other installation style.
**10. Mike’s Final Verdict:
Horizontal Coil Installs Can Be the Best or the Worst — There’s No Middle Ground**
Here’s what I’ve learned in 20+ years:
✔ A perfect horizontal install cools like a dream
✔ A sloppy horizontal install cools like a dying window unit
✔ Coil pitch, airflow direction, and duct sizing are everything
✔ Attic heat load destroys performance if ignored
✔ Air leaks and poor transitions cut SEER2 in half
✔ Line set routing matters more than people realize
✔ The Goodman 3.5-ton coil is a MAJOR advantage in horizontal installs
If you want your 3-ton Goodman R-32 system to run cold, quiet, and efficient — your horizontal coil MUST be installed with precision.
Get it right once, and it will run beautifully for 15–20 years.
That’s the Mike way.
Installations cost will be discussed by Mike in the next blog.







