🧰 Installation Guide: What Mike Learned Installing His Amana Wall AC
🏡 Introduction: How I Turned a Weekend Project into a Major Upgrade
If there’s one home upgrade that truly changed the comfort of my living space, it was installing the Amana 11,800 BTU 115V Through-the-Wall Air Conditioner with Remote.
My old window unit worked hard, but it was ugly, loud, and constantly leaking around the frame. Every summer, I battled uneven cooling and a spike in my energy bills. I wanted something permanent — something that looked built-in and didn’t block my window light.
I decided to take the DIY route. It was intimidating at first (after all, cutting a hole in your wall is no small feat). But with the right prep, tools, and patience, I did it safely — and learned a ton along the way.
If you’re considering tackling this yourself, this guide walks you through:
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Every step of the process (start to finish)
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What tools will you need?
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Common mistakes to avoid
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How to make your installation look professional
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My personal lessons from doing it the hard way (so you don’t have to)
🧰 Section 1: Tools & Materials Checklist
Before you even touch your wall, make sure you’ve got all your tools ready. Installing a through-the-wall AC isn’t just plug-and-play — you’ll be cutting, framing, insulating, and sealing. Preparation is everything.
🪚 Tools You’ll Need
| Category | Tools | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Measuring | Tape measure, laser level, pencil | Accurate wall cutouts |
| Cutting | Reciprocating saw or oscillating tool, drywall saw, utility knife | Wall and siding cuts |
| Framing | Power drill, screws, 2x4 framing lumber | Reinforcing wall opening |
| Sealing | Silicone caulk, foam insulation, weatherproof tape | Air and moisture seal |
| Electrical | Voltage tester, wire staples, heavy-duty outlet | Safe power connection |
| Finishing | Trim kit, paint, caulk gun | Seamless final look |
| Safety Gear | Goggles, gloves, and a dust mask | Personal protection |
🧠 Mike’s Tip: Organise tools in labelled bins by step (cutting, sealing, finishing). It keeps your workspace tidy and prevents mid-project chaos.
📘 Reference: Family Handyman – DIY Air Conditioner Tools Checklist
📍 Section 2: Choosing the Right Wall (and Why Placement Matters)
Not every wall is a good candidate. Placement determines not only how well your AC cools but also how efficiently it drains and how quiet it operates.
🧱 1. Pick an Exterior Wall
Your through-the-wall AC must exhaust warm air outdoors, so it must be installed in an exterior wall — ideally one without plumbing, wiring, or studs blocking the way.
🪟 2. Avoid Window Corners
Installing near a window may seem convenient, but the framing there often hides electrical lines. Choose a section of solid wall where airflow isn’t obstructed by furniture, curtains, or doors.
🔝 3. Ideal Height
Aim for 4–5 feet above the floor, roughly shoulder height. This ensures even airflow while keeping maintenance easy (you’ll be cleaning that filter every few weeks).
🎧 4. Noise Consideration
Avoid placing the AC directly behind a headboard or TV wall. Even quiet models like Amana’s 11,800 BTU unit produce a gentle hum that’s better suited to open spaces.
💬 Mike’s Lesson: I originally planned to install it near my sofa, but testing a cardboard template helped me realise the noise direction mattered. A few feet difference made all the difference in comfort.
📏 Section 3: Measure Twice, Cut Once (Seriously)
A few careful measurements will save you from costly wall patching later.
🪜 Step 1: Measure the Wall Sleeve
Your Amana sleeve (like the WS900D) typically measures 26" W × 15.5" H × 16" D. Use the actual sleeve as your stencil — never rely solely on printed specs.
📐 Step 2: Trace the Outline
Use a pencil and a level to draw your cut line. Mark the centre point so the sleeve sits evenly between wall studs.
🧱 Step 3: Check Stud Locations
Use a stud finder to locate vertical framing. If a stud runs through your cut zone, adjust your layout by a few inches.
🧰 Step 4: Make a Pilot Hole
Drill a small pilot hole through the centre to confirm that your wall section leads to the exterior. This helps ensure there’s no hidden conduit.
⚠️ Mike’s Warning: I skipped a pilot hole my first time — and nicked a wire. The patch job took longer than the AC install itself.
🧱 Section 4: Cutting the Wall Opening
Here’s the part that scares most homeowners — but with a slow, steady approach, it’s not bad at all.
🔧 Step 1: Cut the Interior Drywall
Use a reciprocating saw or keyhole saw to cut along your outline. Keep your depth shallow to avoid cutting into insulation prematurely.
⚙️ Step 2: Inspect the Cavity
Pull out insulation carefully. Look inside for any wiring, studs, or pipes that might need rerouting.
🪚 Step 3: Drill Corner Holes
These will serve as guide points for cutting from the exterior. Drill all four corners outward.
🧱 Step 4: Cut the Exterior Wall
Move outside and connect your pilot holes. For siding, a circular saw works best. For brick, use a masonry drill or angle grinder.
💡 Mike’s Pro Tip: Score the siding first before making the full cut — it prevents cracking and jagged edges.
📘 Reference: This Old House – Cutting Walls for Through-the-Wall ACs
🪵 Section 5: Framing the Opening
This step ensures your wall can safely support the weight of the unit (usually 70–80 pounds).
🧰 Step 1: Add Framing Lumber
Use 2x4 studs to create a box frame around your cutout. Screw them into existing studs on each side.
⚙️ Step 2: Install a Header and Footer
Add horizontal supports at the top and bottom of your opening to prevent sagging.
🪚 Step 3: Check for Level
The entire frame should slope slightly downward (¼ inch) toward the outside to help with drainage.
🧠 Mike’s Lesson: “I levelled mine perfectly flat the first time. A week later, I had condensation dripping inside. Always slope outward just a hair.”
📘 Reference: Fine Homebuilding – Framing Wall Openings
🧩 Section 6: Installing the Wall Sleeve
Now that your opening is ready, it’s time to install the AC’s mounting sleeve.
🪛 Step 1: Insert the Sleeve
Slide the sleeve into the framed opening until it’s flush with the interior wall.
⚙️ Step 2: Secure with Screws
Use wood screws to fasten the sleeve to your frame. Tighten snugly, but don’t overtighten — warping the sleeve can misalign the AC later.
🧱 Step 3: Seal the Edges
Apply a generous bead of silicone caulk or expanding foam around the sleeve edges inside and out.
🌧️ Step 4: Install the Rear Grille (if included)
Some Amana sleeves include a rear grille to prevent debris and pests. Snap or screw this into place now.
⚡ Section 7: Electrical Setup (115V Made Easy)
The Amana 11,800 BTU model operates on a standard 115V household outlet, which makes electrical setup straightforward.
⚙️ Step 1: Check Your Circuit
Confirm the outlet is on a dedicated 15A breaker. If it shares a line with major appliances, hire an electrician to rewire a dedicated circuit.
🧩 Step 2: Test Voltage
Use a voltage tester to ensure 115V power is present and the outlet is properly grounded.
⚡ Step 3: Plug It In Directly
Avoid power strips or surge protectors — these can restrict current flow and cause damage.
🧠 Mike’s Lesson: “I learned that even heavy-duty surge protectors aren’t made for ACs. It tripped mine within minutes. Go direct to the wall.”
📘 Reference: NFPA – Residential Electrical Safety Standards
💨 Section 8: Mounting the AC Unit
This is the moment you’ve been waiting for — sliding your Amana into its new home.
🧱 Step 1: Remove the Front Grille
This gives you a better grip and visibility during alignment.
🧰 Step 2: Slide the Unit In
Push gently but firmly until the AC sits flush with the sleeve flange. Check that the sides are even.
🔩 Step 3: Secure the Chassis
Use the provided screws to lock the chassis to the sleeve frame.
💧 Step 4: Connect the Drain (Optional)
If you live in a humid region, attach the drain spout so condensation exits outside, not into the wall cavity.
🔇 Section 9: Sealing & Soundproofing Like a Pro
A good seal not only keeps air leaks out — it prevents noise infiltration and ensures your AC runs efficiently.
🧱 Step 1: Foam Gasket Lining
Line the interior of the sleeve with foam strips to reduce vibration.
🧴 Step 2: Apply Silicone Bead Around Edges
Run a bead of clear silicone along all exterior seams to prevent rain infiltration.
🧩 Step 3: Add Trim Kit or Decorative Frame
This conceals any rough drywall edges and gives your installation a built-in finish.
💡 Mike’s Pro Tip: “Sealing took me 30 minutes, but it made the unit whisper-quiet. No more buzzing on windy days.”
📘 Reference: Energy.gov – Sealing and Weatherproofing Your Home
🧭 Section 10: Testing and Calibration
Before calling it a day, verify that your Amana unit runs perfectly.
✅ Step 1: Power On
Plug in and switch to “Cool” mode. Let it run for 15–20 minutes.
🌡️ Step 2: Check Airflow
Use a thermometer to compare intake and output temps (should differ by 15–20°F).
💧 Step 3: Inspect Drainage
Confirm that condensation exists through the rear grille — not dripping down your interior wall.
🔇 Step 4: Listen for Rattles
If you hear vibration, add additional foam spacers or tighten sleeve screws slightly.
📘 Reference: HVAC Post-Installation Testing Checklist
🧹 Section 11: Finishing & Cleanup
The last step is turning your installation into something that looks like it came with your home.
🖌️ Step 1: Patch & Paint
Touch up edges with caulk or wall paint to match the surrounding wall.
🧽 Step 2: Clean Dust and Debris
Vacuum dust inside and out — sawdust left inside can clog filters later.
🧰 Step 3: Install the Grille
Snap the front panel back in place and wipe it clean.
🧠 Section 12: Mike’s Real-World Lessons Learned
1️⃣ Measure Everything — Twice.
That half-inch of error on paper turns into a permanent gap in drywall.
2️⃣ Slope Outward for Drainage.
Always angle the sleeve slightly outward to avoid water leaks.
3️⃣ Seal the Exterior Immediately.
Weather changes fast; seal the same day you cut.
4️⃣ Dedicated Power Is a Must.
Even small surges can cause restarts — protect your compressor.
5️⃣ Trim Work Makes It Look Built-In.
Don’t skip the final touches — it’s what makes your AC blend seamlessly with the wall.
🧾 Section 13: Ongoing Maintenance
Your Amana wall AC will last a decade or more if you treat it right.
| Frequency | Task | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Monthly | Clean or replace the filter | Improves airflow and efficiency |
| Quarterly | Inspect seals | Reseal gaps or cracks |
| Seasonally | Rinse condenser coils | Prevents dust buildup |
| Annually | Check the electrical plug | Tighten or replace worn outlets |
📘 Reference: EnergyStar – Maintenance for Room ACs
🧑🔧 Section 14: When to Call a Professional
Even with the best prep, some projects go sideways. Call an HVAC or electrical pro if:
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Your wall is load-bearing and needs structural reinforcement.
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There’s no exterior outlet for drainage.
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Your breaker trips repeatedly after installation.
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You see moisture inside after rain.
Average pro install costs run between $400–$800, but doing it yourself (correctly) can save you hundreds.
🧩 Section 15: Final Thoughts from Mike
After installing my Amana wall AC, my living room finally felt balanced — cool, quiet, and comfortable. Best of all, I gained a sense of accomplishment that no store-bought installation could give me.
“The best part wasn’t saving money. It was standing back at the end, feeling that first burst of cold air, and knowing I built that comfort myself.”
— Mike Sanders
If you’re patient, careful, and follow each step, your wall AC can look and perform just like a professional install.
🖼️ Infographic Concept: “Amana Wall AC Installation at a Glance”
Visual Layout Includes:
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Top Section: Tools Checklist (with icons: saw, level, gloves, sealant gun)
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Middle Section: “Step-by-Step Install Flow” (9 numbered illustrations — measure, cut, frame, sleeve, seal, test, finish)
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Side Callouts: “Mike’s Top 5 Tips” in yellow sticky-note style bubbles
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Bottom Panel: Diagram showing a 1/4-inch outward slope for drainage and airflow arrows
In the next blog, we shall learn more about Comfort in Every Room: Airflow & Placement Tips
