Installation Cost Breakdown:  What a Weil-McLain CGA-5 REALLY Costs in 2025

Installation Cost Breakdown:

What a Weil-McLain CGA-5 REALLY Costs in 2025
(Piping, Controls, Labor & Venting)**
Mike Breaks Down the REAL Cost of Putting a 133,000 BTU Cast-Iron Boiler in Your Home

Let me start with the truth every HVAC company hides behind “free estimates” and vague quotes:

**Installing a Weil-McLain CGA-5 is NOT cheap.

It’s NOT a fast job.
And it’s NOT just swapping a box.**

A 133,000 BTU cast-iron boiler weighs over 400 pounds, demands a gas supply that can feed a small restaurant, and needs venting, piping, wiring, and hydronic controls that are fundamentally different from forced-air systems.

This is NOT a furnace replacement.

This is hydronics — the engineering world of:

  • pressure

  • flow

  • thermal mass

  • BTU extraction

  • water chemistry

  • circulator head

  • near-boiler piping physics

Most installers underestimate the job.
Most homeowners underestimate the job.
And most quotes you see online underestimate the work by a mile.

Let’s break down exactly where every dollar goes — Mike style.


1. The Boiler Itself ($2,200 – $3,600)

The Weil-McLain CGA-5 Series 3 — 133,000 BTU natural gas boiler is:

  • heavy

  • durable

  • stable

  • simple

  • old-school reliable

But the equipment cost is only 25–35% of your total install.

What your boiler DOES include:

  • cast-iron sectional heat exchanger

  • atmospheric burner

  • gas valve

  • jacket

  • basic controls

  • limited warranty

What it does NOT include:

  • piping

  • controls

  • pumps

  • expansion tank

  • air elimination

  • venting

  • feeder/backflow

  • condensate neutralizer (if required by code)

  • wiring

  • chimney liner

  • drain/purge stations

  • zone valves

This is why “boiler-only” pricing is meaningless.


2. Old Boiler Removal ($500 – $1,200)

Removing a cast-iron boiler is work:

  • disconnecting gas

  • removing flue

  • draining system

  • cutting old near-boiler piping

  • hauling a 350–600 lb unit

  • cleaning the pad or floor

  • disposing of asbestos-era junk

  • cutting circulators or zone valves

  • isolating domestic water

  • safe disposal per code

The [Boiler Installation Labor and Complexity Assessment Matrix] shows removal labor on cast-iron boilers is one of the largest variables in the entire job.

Older boilers?
Worse every time.


3. Gas Line Upgrades ($300 – $1,200)

This is the part homeowners HATE to hear:

A CGA-5 needs a TRUE 133,000 BTU gas supply.

Not whatever pipe size your 1970s furnace used.

This means:

  • 1" or ¾" gas pipe (depending on length)

  • proper regulators

  • correct manifold pressure

  • leak checks

  • drip leg

  • bonding/grounding

  • code-mandated shutoff valves

The [Gas Supply Sizing and Pressure Loss Field Analysis] shows that 80% of boiler underperformance is caused by gas starvation — not the boiler.

If your installer doesn’t put a manometer on your gas valve?

Send them home.


4. Chimney Liner Upgrade ($800 – $2,200)

Atmospheric boilers MUST vent properly.

Your old furnace probably shared the chimney with a water heater.
Your new boiler might not.

Most homes need:

  • stainless steel chimney liner

  • correct diameter

  • proper termination

  • draft hood assembly

  • combustion testing

  • draft verification

  • spillage testing

Why?

Because atmospheric boilers produce:

  • warm flue gases

  • less buoyant draft

  • moisture that condenses in cold chimneys

The [Draft Behavior and Chimney Liner Requirement Ledger] shows unlined chimneys cause:

  • flue condensation

  • masonry decay

  • draft failure

  • carbon monoxide spillage

A liner is NOT optional — it’s safety.


5. Near-Boiler Piping ($900 – $2,500)

This is where rookies ruin boilers.

Near-boiler piping includes:

  • supply/return manifolds

  • circulator pump installation

  • flow-check valves

  • air separators

  • expansion tank

  • purge stations

  • boiler bypass setup

  • pressure-reducing valve

  • backflow preventer

  • service valves

  • relief valve

  • gauge tree

Every fitting affects system flow, which determines:

  • heat transfer

  • emitter performance

  • cycle length

  • return temperature stability

The [Primary/Secondary Hydronic Piping Layout Guide] explains why wrong piping causes short cycling on cast-iron boilers — especially ones like the CGA-5 with high water volume.

Good piping = quiet, stable heat.
Bad piping = noisy, uneven, short-cycling disaster.


6. Circulator Pumps & Zone Valves ($250 – $1,200 per zone)

Your home may use:

  • zone valves

  • circulators

  • or both

New systems typically require:

  • high-head circulators

  • ECM pumps

  • flow check valves

  • isolation flanges

  • wiring harnesses

If your home has:

  • 2 zones → add $500–$2,000

  • 3 zones → add $750–$3,200

  • 4 zones → add $1,200–$4,500

The [Circulator Performance Study] proves zone imbalance is one of the most common reasons homeowners think their boiler is “too small.”


7. Water Feeder, Backflow, & Safety Package ($250 – $650)

Every boiler must include:

  • automatic water feeder

  • backflow preventer

  • pressure-reducing valve

  • relief valve

  • pressure/temperature gauge

The [Residential Boiler Safety and Makeup Water Control Note] confirms that incorrect feeder setup is a top cause of:

  • boiler flooding

  • relief valve blow-off

  • pressure swings

Nothing fancy — but mandatory.


8. Air Elimination & System Purge Components ($150 – $500)

Air is the enemy of hydronics.

You need:

  • air separator

  • automatic vent

  • purge valves

  • boiler drains

Small parts, giant impact.

The [Circulator Cavitation Incident Report] shows air in hydronic systems destroys pumps faster than any other failure mode.


9. Thermostat & Control Wiring ($150 – $550)

Depending on your system:

  • existing thermostat wiring may be insufficient

  • multi-zone systems require multiple runs

  • priority zoning (e.g., indirect water heaters) needs dedicated wiring

  • control boards require low-voltage routing

Nothing crazy — but not free.


10. System Fill, Flushing & Commissioning ($300 – $900)

This is the step cheap installers skip — and the step that determines how long your boiler will live.

Proper commissioning includes:

  • system flush

  • leak check

  • pressure test

  • combustion analysis

  • draft test

  • gas pressure test

  • purge & bleed

  • delta-T verification

  • thermostat calibration

  • circulator adjustment

The [Hydronic Startup and Commissioning Verification Log] says improper startup is responsible for 40%+ of early boiler failures.

If your installer doesn’t use test instruments?

Walk them out.


11. Total Installation Cost — Mike’s REAL Ranges for 2025

These are the real numbers — not the fantasy numbers from “budget HVAC blogs.”

Basic Install (rare):

$6,000 – $8,500
(Single zone, short gas run, no liner needed)

Standard Install (most homes):

$8,500 – $12,500
(2–3 zones, chimney liner, new piping, upgraded gas)

Major Install (old homes, big zones):

$12,500 – $17,500
(full piping replacements, liner, multi-zone circulators)

Complete Hydronic Overhaul:

$17,500 – $25,000+
(entire system rebuild, pumps, valves, full near-boiler repipe)

These numbers align directly with patterns shown in the Boiler Installation Labor & Complexity Assessment Matrix]\ and the real hours/labor/material demands of cast-iron hydronics.

This is not furnace work.
This is skilled hydronic craft.


Mike’s Final Verdict — The CGA-5 Isn’t Expensive. The SYSTEM Behind It Is.

Here’s the truth:

✔ The boiler is the cheapest part of the job

✔ Gas piping determines performance

✔ Chimney determines safety

✔ Piping determines comfort

✔ Circulators determine distribution

✔ Commissioning determines lifespan

✔ Air elimination determines noise

✔ Zone balancing determines stability

You’re not paying for the box.
You’re paying for the engineering.

A Weil-McLain CGA-5 installed correctly is a 25-year heating machine.
Installed cheap?
It’s a 5-year mistake.

Do it right.
Build it right.
Invest in it right.

That’s the Mike way.

Let's know about Mike's Hydronic Piping Guide in the next blog.

Cooling it with mike

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