How Humidity Changes the Math Sizing for Wet vs. Dry Environments

When you calculate system size, you’re usually working with square footage and BTUs. But there’s another factor that can throw off your numbers — humidity.

Moisture in the air changes how efficiently your system cools and how much heat it actually needs to remove. A 12,000 BTU system in a dry desert might feel overpowered, while that same unit in a coastal climate might struggle to keep up.

Jake explains it best:

“Heat is only half the problem. The other half is water — and your AC’s job is to pull both out of the air.”

In this guide, Jake breaks down why humidity changes the rules, how to adjust your sizing for wet vs. dry climates, and which systems — like the Amana Distinctions 12,000 BTU PTAC with 3.5 kW Electric Heat — are built to balance both comfort and moisture.


🌡️ Section 1: Temperature vs. Humidity — What Your AC Really Fights

Most people think air conditioners just lower temperature, but they actually manage two types of heat:

  1. Sensible heat – the heat you can feel and measure with a thermometer.

  2. Latent heat – the hidden energy in moisture vapor that needs to be condensed out.

Jake explains:

“When your AC runs, part of its job is cooling air, and part is drying it. If the air’s wetter, your system’s gotta work harder — even if the temperature’s the same.”

In dry climates, nearly all the AC’s energy goes to lowering temperature. In humid climates, as much as 30–40% of total cooling capacity goes toward moisture removal instead of temperature drop.

🔗 Reference: ASHRAE – Psychrometrics and HVAC Design


💧 Section 2: Why Humidity Feels Like “Invisible Heat”

You’ve probably noticed that 78°F feels very different in Florida than it does in Nevada. That’s because humidity slows down your body’s ability to cool itself through evaporation.

When relative humidity climbs above 60%, sweat can’t evaporate efficiently, so air feels warmer than it is.

Jake calls this the “sticky factor”:

“When humidity’s high, your body can’t dump heat — so you feel hotter even when the thermostat says you’re cool.”

Comfort Correlation:

Humidity Feels Like Typical AC Load
30% (Dry) Slightly crisp 100% rated BTU
50% (Moderate) Comfortable 105–110% BTU
70% (Humid) Sticky 115–125% BTU
80%+ (Wet) Muggy, oppressive 130%+ BTU

That’s why sizing for humidity can’t rely on square footage alone — it must also account for latent load, the moisture your system has to pull out of the air.

🔗 Reference: Energy Star – Indoor Humidity and Comfort


🧮 Section 3: Adjusting BTUs for Humid vs. Dry Climates

Here’s Jake’s humidity adjustment rule:

BTU Adjustment = Room BTU × (1 + Humidity Factor)

Climate Type Typical Humidity Adjustment Example (12,000 BTU Base)
Very Dry (Arizona, Nevada) 10–20% -10% 10,800 BTU
Moderate (Midwest) 30–50% Standard 12,000 BTU
Humid (Southeast, Gulf Coast) 60–70% +15% 13,800 BTU
Very Humid (Florida, Louisiana) 75–85%+ +25% 15,000 BTU

Jake’s takeaway:

“If you can see your breath outside in summer, your AC’s pulling double duty.”

That’s why a 12,000 BTU system can feel perfect in Phoenix but undersized in Pensacola.

🔗 Reference: DOE – Cooling Load Estimation


💨 Section 4: How Humidity Impacts System Run Time

Humidity changes not just how much power you need, but how long your system should run.

  • In humid climates, longer, slower cooling cycles are ideal. They allow the coil to stay cold long enough to condense and remove moisture.

  • In dry climates, short, efficient cycles are fine because there’s little water vapor to remove.

Jake warns:

“If your system’s too big in a humid area, it cools the air fast but never runs long enough to dry it out. That’s why you end up cold and sticky.”

That’s why smaller, inverter-based systems — like modern PTACs with variable-speed compressors — work so well in humid zones. They run longer and slower, keeping humidity stable.

🔗 Reference: ACCA – Manual S Equipment Selection Standards


🧊 Section 5: The Dew Point Connection

The dew point — the temperature at which air becomes saturated and moisture starts condensing — gives a better picture of real comfort than temperature alone.

Dew Point Comfort Level Action
< 50°F Dry May feel cool; no adjustment needed
50–60°F Comfortable Normal operation
60–70°F Humid Increase run time or BTU by 10–20%
70°F+ Very humid Consider dehumidifier or inverter system

Jake’s pro tip:

“Your thermostat shows temperature, but your body feels dew point.”

Monitoring dew point is key for humid climates — your AC can only do so much if the air’s water content is sky-high.

🔗 Reference: NOAA – Understanding Dew Point


⚙️ Section 6: Equipment Type Matters More Than You Think

Not all systems handle humidity equally.

System Type Humidity Handling Notes
Standard PTAC (On/Off) Poor Short cycles → low dehumidification
Variable-Speed (Inverter) Excellent Long cycles, steady coil temps
Mini Split Very Good Zoned control, humidity mode
Central HVAC (Single-Stage) Moderate Depends on coil size and runtime
Hybrid Heat Pump w/ Reheat Coil Best Dehumidifies even while cooling

Jake’s advice:

“Humidity control is less about raw BTUs and more about runtime. The slower it runs, the drier you’ll feel.”

🔗 Reference: Energy.gov – Dehumidification and Cooling Systems


🌍 Section 7: Real-World Examples

Example 1: Arizona Apartment (Dry Climate)

  • Room: 500 sq ft

  • Target BTU: 12,000

  • Humidity: 15% (very dry)

  • Adjustment: -10%
    ✅ Ideal system: 10,800–11,000 BTU
    ✅ Faster cooling, minimal latent load

Example 2: Coastal Florida Condo (Humid Climate)

  • Room: 500 sq ft

  • Target BTU: 12,000

  • Humidity: 75%

  • Adjustment: +25%
    ✅ Ideal system: 15,000 BTU or inverter-type 12k
    ✅ Requires longer runtime for moisture removal

Jake says:

“Same square footage, same floor plan, but one room’s fighting heat — the other’s fighting water.”


💨 Section 8: The Role of Airflow and Coil Temperature

To remove humidity, your system’s evaporator coil needs to stay below the dew point long enough to condense moisture.

If airflow is too fast, air passes over the coil without enough contact time — lowering temperature but leaving humidity behind.

Solution:

  • Slow fan speed in humid environments.

  • Maintain coil cleanliness to ensure full contact area.

  • Run system longer rather than stronger.

Jake’s analogy:

“Drying clothes on high heat for 5 minutes won’t work. It’s time, not temperature, that gets the job done.”


💡 Section 9: Dehumidifiers, Reheat & Smart Solutions

If you live in high-humidity zones, pairing your AC with a dehumidifier or reheat coil can boost comfort dramatically.

  • Dehumidifiers remove latent moisture independently.

  • Reheat coils use waste heat from the compressor to dry air without cooling it too much.

Modern PTACs like Amana’s integrate smart humidity sensors that automatically balance coil temperature and fan speed.

Jake notes:

“Ten years ago, you needed separate gear for this. Now, smart PTACs handle humidity like pros.”

🔗 Reference: Energy Star – Whole-Home Dehumidification


🧾 Section 10: Jake’s Quick Humidity Math

Jake’s DIY formula for adjusting system sizing in any climate:


Adjusted BTU = (Square Feet × 25) × (1 + Humidity Adjustment)

Where:

  • Dry climate = -10%

  • Moderate = 0%

  • Humid = +15%

  • Very Humid = +25%

Example:

  • Room: 450 sq ft

  • Climate: Very Humid (Florida, 75%)

  • Base BTU = 450 × 25 = 11,250

  • Adjusted BTU = 11,250 × 1.25 = 14,000 BTU

Jake says:

“It’s simple math: for every percent of moisture, add a little muscle. Your comfort depends on it.”


🌡️ Section 11: When Heating Gets Involved

In wet, coastal climates, humidity doesn’t just affect cooling — it affects heating too.

Moist air holds heat differently, so heat pumps and PTACs with heat kits must also account for defrost cycles and moisture retention.

A model like the Amana 12,000 BTU PTAC with 3.5 kW electric heat maintains steady comfort across both cooling and heating modes without over-drying or over-humidifying the air.

Jake’s winter tip:

“When your system switches to heat, humidity drops. That’s why you wake up with a dry throat — balance it with a small humidifier.”


📏 Section 12: Jake’s Comfort Equation

Jake sums it up perfectly:


True Comfort = (Temperature Balance) + (Humidity Balance)

You can size your system perfectly, but if humidity’s out of control, your home will always feel “off.”

That’s why he always tells homeowners:

“Your thermostat might say 72°F, but your body’s reading the humidity.”


🧭 Jake’s Final Word

“Sizing isn’t one-size-fits-all. In the desert, you fight heat. In the tropics, you fight moisture. Get that wrong, and your perfect math won’t mean much.”

Humidity doesn’t just make you sweat — it changes how your HVAC system works.

If you live in a humid zone, your AC is pulling out gallons of water every day. Give it the runtime, coil surface, and BTU capacity it needs.

Jake’s advice:

“When in doubt, go smarter, not bigger. Inverters, variable speeds, and humidity sensors will always beat raw BTUs in wet climates.”

That’s why he trusts the Amana Distinctions 12,000 BTU PTAC with 3.5 kW Electric Heat — it runs steady, quiet, and smart, adjusting for real humidity loads automatically.

Buy this on Amazon at: https://amzn.to/3WuhnM7

In the next topic we will know more about: Future-Proofing Your System: How to Size for Add-Ons, Expansions & Renovations

The comfort circuit with jake

Leave a comment

All comments are moderated before being published