By Tony — the guy who’s fixed more “undersized” heaters that weren’t actually undersized, just installed in tall rooms with no airflow strategy
🛠️ Introduction: The Square-Footage Myth That Gets Shops Freezing Cold
If you size a heater based strictly on square footage, you’re going to be disappointed.
I know because I spend half my career explaining to homeowners why their “correctly sized” 45,000 BTU or 60,000 BTU unit heater still can’t warm a garage.
Let me put it bluntly:
**Square footage lies.
Ceiling height tells the truth.**
A 600 sq ft garage with an 8-ft ceiling is easy to heat.
A 600 sq ft shop with a 14-ft ceiling?
You just doubled the volume — and tripled the problem.
You’re not heating area.
You’re heating air volume, and tall rooms have a LOT more of it.
This is the real system design story no BTU calculator ever shows you.
Reznor UDX 60,000 BTU Propane Unit Heater
📦 1. Square Footage Only Measures the Floor — Not the Air You Must Heat
Every heater sizing chart online says something like:
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30k BTU for 1–2 car garage
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45k BTU for 600–800 sq ft
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60k BTU for 900–1,200 sq ft
But those numbers assume you're heating a box with a standard 8-ft ceiling.
Raise the ceiling and that box becomes a vertical cavern.
Example
Two “same-size” shops:
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Shop A: 24 × 24 × 8
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Shop B: 24 × 24 × 14
Both are 576 sq ft.
But the air volume?
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Shop A → 4,608 cubic ft
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Shop B → 8,064 cubic ft
Shop B has 75% more air to heat.
Square footage didn’t change.
Comfort did.
This is why every BTU calculator fails tall spaces.
🔥 2. Tony’s Golden Rule: Size Heaters by Cubic Feet, Not Square Feet
Here’s the system design rule I use on every job:
👉 Total Cubic Feet ÷ 200–250 = Required BTUs
For most garages and shops with decent insulation:
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Divide total cubic feet by 200 for cold climates
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Divide by 250 for mild climates
Example
24 × 30 × 14 =
10,080 cubic ft
10,080 ÷ 200 = 50,400 BTUs needed
Notice how square footage calculators would tell you 45k BTU is fine?
It isn’t.
That extra 6 feet of height adds over 4,000 extra cubic feet of air.
Your square footage didn’t change.
Your required BTUs just jumped.
🎈 3. Why Hot Air Rises — and Why Tall Rooms Make it Worse
People love to blame:
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weak heaters
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defective burners
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insufficient throw distance
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poor thermostats
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bad gas pressure
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the brand
But in tall shops, none of these are the real culprit.
The real problem: stratification
Heated air rises fast, especially from unit heaters.
That means in a tall shop:
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90% of your heat gets trapped at the ceiling
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Floor temps lag behind
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The thermostat (mounted mid-height) hits temp early
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Heater cycles off before the floor zone warms
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Propane usage skyrockets
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People think they need “more BTUs”
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When they actually need air control
Stratification makes your heater look weak — even if it’s oversized.
🧲 4. How Ceiling Height Hijacks Heat Output (Even at the Same BTUs)
Heaters don’t heat rooms equally.
They heat airflow paths, and those paths change dramatically with room height.
Here’s what tall ceilings do:
❌ Expand the volume the heater must warm
More air → more BTUs needed
❌ Increase vertical travel distance
Heat has farther to fall to reach people
❌ Accelerate heat loss into the ceiling cavity
Especially in metal buildings
❌ Delay temperature rise
More mass of air = slower warm-up
❌ Increase stratification
Heat gets stuck above the work zone
❌ Reduce throw effectiveness
Warm air cools faster over long distances
When the ceiling height doubles, the heater doesn’t “work harder.”
It just becomes less effective at delivering heat to where you stand.
🔎 5. When Does Ceiling Height Start Affecting BTU Sizing?
Based on field data from hundreds of Reznor, Modine, Hot Dawg, and Sterling installs:
8 ft ceilings
Normal sizing applies
9–10 ft ceilings
Add 10–15% to BTU requirement
12–14 ft ceilings
Add 25–40% to BTU requirement
Angle heater downward aggressively
16–20 ft ceilings
You MUST:
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Oversize heater by 40–60%
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Use fans for destratification
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Increase throw distance
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Avoid corner mounting
20+ ft ceilings
You are in commercial territory:
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Size from cubic feet
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Use multiple units
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Use ceiling fans or air rotation fans
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Consider infrared radiant heat instead of warm-air
🌀 6. Air Mixing: The Hidden Key to Heating Tall Rooms
If you do nothing else, remember this:
A tall room MUST have forced air circulation.
Without circulation, hot air piles up at the ceiling.
You can have an 80k BTU heater burning away and still freeze at floor level.
Essential air-mixing tools include:
✔️ Low-speed ceiling fans
Set to reverse for winter (pushing air down gently)
✔️ Air rotation fans
Used in barns and warehouses
✔️ Small mixing fans at floor level
Push cold air toward the heater side
✔️ Correct heater angle (15–20° down)
So heat actually enters the occupied zone
✔️ Avoid corner mounts in tall shops
Corners trap heat aloft
You cannot fight stratification with BTUs alone.
You must move the air.
🏢 7. Why Garages and Workshops Suffer More From Tall Ceilings Than Homes
Residential homes rarely have tall ceilings everywhere.
They typically have:
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ducts
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returns
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controlled airflow
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multiple vents
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interior walls to break up air volume
Workshops and garages?
They’re giant empty boxes with:
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exposed trusses
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no return air
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no ceiling
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motors, lifts, tools
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open rafters
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no ductwork
Heaters in these spaces rely entirely on:
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throw distance
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mounting height
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downward angle
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air mixing
One mistake and the entire thermal pattern fails.
📘 8. External Verified Sources
These reputable references align with Tony’s height-first approach:
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Modine Hot Dawg Installation Manual (Mounting & Throw Charts)
https://modinehvac.com/ -
Reznor UDX Engineering Specifications
https://www.reznorhvac.com -
Building Science Corporation – Air Mixing & Comfort Control
https://buildingscience.com -
HVAC Ventilation & Throw Distance Principles (Titus HVAC)
https://www.titus-hvac.com/
These prove that vertical air volume and airflow control matter more than floor area when sizing warm-air heaters.
🧰 9. Real-World Examples From Tony’s Job Log
Case 1 — The “Correctly Sized” 45k BTU That Warmed Nothing
Room: 24 × 30 shop
Height: 14 ft
Square footage said: 540 sq ft → 45k BTU
Reality: 10,080 cubic ft → needed 50–60k BTU
Also: zero air mixing.
Add one ceiling fan + angle heater down 20°.
Problem solved.
Case 2 — Dealer Installed 80k BTU in a 20-ft Barn. Still Cold.
Because the heat stayed at 18 ft.
Floor temp was 52°F even after an hour.
Added two destrat fans + lowered mounting height + adjusted angle.
Temperature rise improved by 18°F.
Case 3 — Mechanic Shop With a Lift
Tall ceilings + lift blocking throw
Heat pooled at 12–16 ft
Cars cold, floor cold
Moved heater 4 ft and used low-speed fan
Massive difference
📏 10. How to Size a Unit Heater Correctly — Tony’s Simple Formula
✔️ Step 1 — Measure cubic feet
Length × width × height
✔️ Step 2 — Apply Tony’s rule
Cubic Feet ÷ 200 (cold)
Cubic Feet ÷ 250 (mild)
✔️ Step 3 — Adjust for insulation
Poor insulation → add 10–25% BTUs
Metal buildings → add 25–40% BTUs
✔️ Step 4 — Correct the airflow pattern
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Proper mounting height
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15–20° downward angle
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Open pathway for airflow
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Add destratification fans for 12+ ft ceilings
✔️ Step 5 — Test with a laser temp gun
Check:
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ceiling temp
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mid-height temp
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floor temp
The goal: temperature difference under 5–10°F.
If it’s 20–30°F, air mixing is wrong.
🚀 Conclusion: Ceiling Height Is the Silent BTU Killer
The biggest mistake in heater sizing is assuming floor area equals heat load.
It doesn’t.
Air volume does.
If you ignore ceiling height, you will:
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undersize your heater
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overpay on propane
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freeze at floor level
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trap heat in the rafters
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misread thermostat behavior
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think your heater is weak
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shorten heater lifespan from long cycles
But when you size for height first, the whole system works:
✔️ floors warm faster
✔️ ceilings stay cooler
✔️ propane bills drop
✔️ you get even heat coverage
✔️ the heater lasts longer
✔️ the building hits temperature faster
Square footage doesn’t heat your shop.
Cubic footage does.
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In the next topic we will know more about: Propane + Moisture = Trouble — Why Wrong Venting Creates a Hidden Humidity Problem in Garages







