⚡ Electric Heat vs. Heat Pump PTACs: Which One Should You Choose?
When you’re looking to add heating and cooling to a guest room, in-law suite, or basement apartment, one of the most convenient options is a PTAC unit (Packaged Terminal Air Conditioner). These self-contained wall units are widely used in hotels, but homeowners are catching on to how useful they are in residential spaces, too.
But here’s the decision point: Do you go with a PTAC that has electric resistance heat, or one that uses a heat pump?
Both options will cool your room. The difference is in how they handle heating — and that can have a huge impact on your comfort, energy bills, and long-term reliability.
I’ve installed and tested both in different homes, and I’ve seen homeowners save money by choosing wisely — and waste money by picking the wrong one. Let’s break it down step by step so you can decide what’s best for your space.
🔎 First Things First: How PTACs Heat and Cool
❄️ The Cooling Side (Same for Both)
All PTACs use a refrigeration cycle for cooling. They:
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Pull warm air from your room.
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Pass it over cold refrigerant coils.
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Push cooled, dehumidified air back into the room.
That’s the easy part. The big difference comes in heating.
🌡️ Option 1: Electric Resistance Heating
Think of this like a giant built-in space heater. The PTAC has electric coils that get hot when powered, and a fan blows air across them into your room.
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Rated in kilowatts (kW)
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Very reliable and simple (few moving parts)
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Works in any outdoor temperature
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Drawback: Uses a lot of electricity
💡 Example: A 3.5 kW PTAC puts out ~11,942 BTUs of heat (enough for about 400–500 sq. ft.).
🔄 Option 2: Heat Pump Heating
A heat pump PTAC uses the same refrigeration cycle — but in reverse. Instead of moving heat out, it moves heat in.
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Much more efficient — 2–3 times the heat for the same electricity
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Works best in moderate climates (above ~30–35°F)
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Can struggle in very cold winters
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More moving parts (reversing valve, refrigerant lines), so slightly higher maintenance risk
📖 The U.S. Department of Energy explains that heat pumps deliver two to three times more heating energy than the electricity they consume — that’s why they’re so popular.
📏 How Much Heating Do You Really Need?
Here’s a quick rule of thumb:
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Electric Heat PTACs are sized by kW.
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Heat Pump PTACs are sized by BTUs.
💡 Conversion tip: 1 kW ≈ 3,412 BTUs.
So:
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2.5 kW = ~8,530 BTUs
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3.5 kW = ~11,942 BTUs
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5.0 kW = ~17,060 BTUs
Most heat pump PTACs range between 9,000–15,000 BTUs of heating output, depending on the model.
👉 If your space is under 500 sq. ft., a 2.5 kW or small heat pump is fine.
👉 For 600–900 sq. ft., a 3.5 kW or 14,000 BTU heat pump works best.
👉 For large suites or studios, you may need a 5.0 kW backup heater or multiple PTACs.
⚖️ Comparing Costs: What Homeowners Care About Most
Let’s talk dollars — both upfront and ongoing.
💵 Upfront Purchase Price
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Electric Heat PTACs: $700–$1,200 (lower cost)
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Heat Pump PTACs: $1,000–$1,600 (higher cost)
⚡ Monthly Operating Costs
This is where the difference really shows.
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Electric Heat: For every 1 kW of power you use, you only get 1 kW of heat. Efficiency = 100%.
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Heat Pump: For every 1 kW of power, you get 2–3 kW of heat. Efficiency = 200–300%.
📊 Example:
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A 3.5 kW electric PTAC, running 6 hours/day at $0.14/kWh = ~$90/month
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A heat pump PTAC delivering equivalent heat = ~$35–$40/month
Over a full winter, the difference can add up to hundreds in savings.
🧮 Total Cost of Ownership (5-Year Estimate)
System Type | Upfront | Monthly Avg | 5-Year Total |
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Electric Heat PTAC | $900 | $90 | ~$6,300 |
Heat Pump PTAC | $1,300 | $40 | ~$3,700 |
👉 Even with the higher purchase price, heat pumps pay for themselves in a few years if you live in a moderate climate and run heat regularly.
🌡️ Climate Matters: Where Each Option Shines
❄️ Cold Northern States (Minnesota, Michigan, Maine)
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Heat pumps lose efficiency when it’s below 30°F.
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Electric heat is more reliable for primary heating.
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Best option: Electric PTAC, or a hybrid (heat pump + electric backup).
🌤️ Mild Southern States (Florida, Texas, Georgia)
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Winters rarely dip below freezing.
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Heat pumps shine here — lower bills, comfortable heat.
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Best option: Heat pump PTAC.
🌎 Mixed Climates (Midwest, Mid-Atlantic)
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Heat pumps work well most of the year.
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On extra-cold days, electric backup ensures comfort.
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Best option: Dual system (heat pump + electric resistance backup).
👉 Many modern PTACs combine both, giving you the best of both worlds.
🔊 Comfort Differences: How They Feel
💨 Electric Heat
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Feels like a warm space heater — quick blasts of heat
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Air gets warm almost instantly.
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Great for short-term comfort
🌬️ Heat Pump Heat
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Feels gentler and more consistent
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Takes a little longer to warm up a cold room
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Better for maintaining steady temps
🛠️ Maintenance Considerations
🔧 Electric PTACs
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Simpler design (fewer moving parts)
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Very reliable — minimal servicing beyond filter/coil cleaning
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Lifespan: 10–12 years with regular care
🔧 Heat Pump PTACs
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More parts: reversing valve, refrigerant cycle
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Require the same filter and coil maintenance, but may need pro servicing.
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Lifespan: also 10–12 years, but slightly higher repair risk
📖 ENERGY STAR’s maintenance guide covers the basics homeowners should follow.
🌍 Environmental Impact
Heat pumps are widely considered the greener choice:
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Use less electricity overall.
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Lower carbon footprint in areas with clean power grids
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Supported by rebates in some regions (check Energy Star Rebate Finder)
According to the International Energy Agency, heat pumps could reduce global CO₂ emissions by nearly 500 million tons if adopted at scale.
🛋️ Mike’s Homeowner Scenarios
👨👩👦 Guest Room Above Garage
I added an electric PTAC. It’s used only when family visits, so efficiency didn’t matter as much as upfront cost. Works great!
🏢 Basement Studio Rental
I chose a heat pump PTAC. My tenants live there full-time, and lower utility bills make the space more attractive.
💻 My Home Office
The electric PTAC was easier for quick blasts of warmth. But if I worked there year-round in a milder climate, I’d definitely go heat pump.
📊 Quick Comparison Table
Feature Electric | PTAC Heat | Heat Pump PTAC |
---|---|---|
Upfront Cost | Lower ($700–$1,200) | Higher ($1,000–$1,600) |
Efficiency | 100% (1:1) | 200–300% (2–3:1) |
Cold Weather Ability | Works in all temps | Weak below ~30°F |
Maintenance | Simpler, fewer parts | More complex, more servicing |
Comfort Feel | Quick, hot blasts | Gentle, steady heat |
Best For | Occasional-use rooms | Year-round moderate climates |
🙋 Expanded Homeowner FAQs
Q: Which lasts longer: electric or heat pump PTACs?
👉 About the same (8–12 years), but electric models may have fewer repairs.
Q: Can I use a PTAC as my only heating source?
👉 In mild climates, yes. In cold climates, no — you’ll need backup.
Q: Are heat pump PTACs louder?
👉 About the same, though compressor cycling can be slightly more noticeable.
Q: Do heat pump PTACs need professional service?
👉 Sometimes. If the reversing valve or refrigerant system fails, you’ll need an HVAC tech.
Q: What’s the best value overall?
👉 For occasional use → Electric. For daily use in moderate climates → Heat Pump. For flexibility → Combo unit with both.
🏁 Final Thoughts: Which Should You Choose?
Here’s my neighbourly advice:
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Choose Electric Heat PTAC if…
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You want the cheapest upfront cost.
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The room is used occasionally (guest room, bonus room)
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You live in a cold climate where heat pumps won’t cut it.
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Choose Heat Pump PTAC if…
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You’ll use the space daily.
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You live in a mild-to-moderate climate.
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You want lower monthly energy bills and greener heating.
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Best of Both Worlds: A hybrid PTAC with both heat pump and electric backup — efficient most of the year, reliable in the coldest snaps.
If you size your PTAC correctly and pick the right heating type, you’ll enjoy hotel-style comfort right at home, without surprise energy bills.
In the next blog, we shall learn more about Installation Guide: What Mike Learned Setting Up His Amana PTAC