Cooling Only vs. Heat Pump vs. Electric Heat: Which Wall Unit Should You Choose?
Most homeowners think all through-the-wall units are the same — they plug in, they blow cold air, done.
But the truth is, there are three completely different types of wall units:
-
Cooling-Only Wall ACs
-
Wall ACs with Electric Heat
-
Wall AC Heat Pumps
Each one works differently.
Each one is built for a different climate.
Each one can either save you money… or cost you money… depending on how your home is set up.
Tony has installed thousands of these units. After crawling through walls, cutting masonry, wiring 208/230-volt circuits, and fixing dozens of bad installs, he knows exactly which type works best in each situation.
This is Tony’s no-nonsense guide to choosing the right through-the-wall system — one that won’t leave you sweating in July or freezing in January.
1. Cooling-Only Wall ACs — The Simple, Reliable Workhorse
Cooling-only wall ACs do one thing: cool the room.
No heating coil. No reversing valve. No off-season complexity.
Tony installs cooling-only units when homeowners want:
-
the lowest cost
-
the fewest parts to break
-
simple install
-
no furnace replacement
-
maximum cooling performance
✔ Best for:
-
hot climates
-
apartments with central heat
-
homeowners with existing baseboard heat
-
rooms that only need cooling
-
garages and workshops
✔ Pros:
-
cheapest price
-
excellent cooling power
-
fewer moving parts = fewer failures
-
best for high-sun rooms
-
fastest installation
-
good for “cooling-only” seasons
✔ Cons:
-
no heating at all
-
you’ll need another heat source
-
can’t back up a furnace
-
won’t help in shoulder seasons
If you never need wall-based heating, this is Tony’s #1 recommendation — simple and strong.
(Reference: Residential HVAC Load Calculation Standards)
2. Wall ACs With Electric Heat — Cheap Heat, Backup Heat, Emergency Heat
A wall AC with electric resistance heat includes a heating coil behind the indoor fan.
Think of it like a giant space heater built into the wall unit.
Tony only recommends these units when heat is a backup, not a main heat source.
✔ Best for:
-
warm climates
-
apartments
-
dens or studios
-
rarely used rooms
-
emergency backup heat
-
homes with strong central heat already
✔ Pros:
-
simple heating
-
cheap upfront cost
-
great for quick spot heating
-
perfect for basements or occasional use
-
runs even in freezing weather
✔ Cons:
-
uses A LOT of electricity
-
expensive to run as primary heat
-
no efficiency gain
-
dries out the air
-
slowly warms larger rooms
Tony’s warning:
“Electric heat will warm the room — and your electric bill.”
Use it as a backup, not your main heating system.
(Reference: Regional Climate and Temperature Zone Guidelines)
3. Heat Pump Wall Units — The Most Efficient Heating & Cooling Combo
Heat pump wall units reverse refrigerant flow to provide cooling in summer and efficient heating in winter — all from the same system.
These are the most misunderstood wall AC units because many homeowners expect them to:
-
heat the whole house
-
work in freezing climates
-
perform like a furnace
Heat pumps are fantastic — when used where they’re designed to work.
✔ Best for:
-
warm or mild climates
-
areas above ~25–30°F in winter
-
rooms needing both heating and cooling
-
long run cycles
-
homeowners wanting energy efficiency
✔ Pros:
-
far cheaper heating than electric coils
-
great energy efficiency
-
consistent comfort
-
works year-round
-
quieter heating than electric heat
-
perfect for bedrooms or offices
✔ Cons:
-
loses capacity as temperature drops
-
may require backup heat in cold climates
-
more expensive upfront
-
more electronics → more expensive repairs
-
defrost cycles create “weird swoosh noises”
Tony tells homeowners the truth:
“Heat pumps are great — until winter hits full force. Don’t expect furnace-level heat from a wall unit when it’s freezing outside.”
(Reference: Equipment Matching and System Compatibility Guidelines)
4. Climate Is Everything — Tony Sizes Wall Units Based on Zip Code
Tony always asks one question first:
“What’s your winter low temperature?”
Because:
✔ Hot climates → Cooling-Only or Heat Pump
Heat pumps shine when cold weather is mild.
✔ Warm/mild climates → Heat Pump
Efficient heating + cooling in one system.
✔ Cold climates → Electric Heat (as backup) + Main Furnace or Boiler
Wall heat pumps struggle below 20–30°F.
✔ Mixed climates → Heat Pump + Electric Backup
This combo works great for shoulder seasons.
(Reference: Regional Climate and Temperature Zone Guidelines)
5. Room Usage Matters — How Often Will You Use the Space?
Tony sizes heating type by room usage:
Bedroom → Heat Pump
Quiet, efficient, steady heat.
Office → Heat Pump
Even temperatures prevent cold spots.
Living Room → Heat Pump or Electric Heat (depends on climate)
Larger rooms need consistent airflow.
Basement → Cooling-Only + Separate Heater
Basements don’t need heat from the wall.
Guest Room → Cooling-Only or Electric Heat
Used rarely = cheapest solution wins.
Garage → Cooling-Only
Heat pumps don’t like uninsulated spaces.
6. Efficiency Considerations — Heat Pumps Win Hands Down
Tony compares cost efficiency like this:
Cooling Only:
-
lowest cost to install
-
standard electric use
-
very reliable
Electric Heat:
-
MOST expensive to run
-
zero efficiency advantage
-
only good as backup
Heat Pumps:
-
up to 3× more efficient than electric heat
-
lowest heating cost (in mild climates)
-
best for year-round use
For energy savings, heat pumps win every time — IF your climate supports them.
(Reference: Home Insulation and Envelope Performance Manual)
7. Installation Differences — What Homeowners Don’t Know
All three types use the same basic sleeve, but the installation details differ.
Cooling-Only:
-
simplest install
-
standard electrical
-
minimal wiring
Electric Heat:
-
may need 208/230V
-
MUST have dedicated breaker
-
needs proper gauge wiring
-
careful sleeve drainage required
Heat Pump:
-
most sensitive to sleeve depth
-
needs clean airflow
-
electrical load is higher
-
requires perfect sealing
-
defrost cycle must have drainage path
Tony installs heat pumps only when he can guarantee the sleeve and electrical are perfect — or the heating performance suffers.
(Reference: Air Distribution and Duct Sizing Reference)
8. Noise Level Differences — Heat Pumps Are the Quietest
Noise varies by type:
Cooling-Only:
-
moderate noise
-
higher fan speeds
-
louder compressor hum
Electric Heat:
-
very quiet in heating
-
normal noise in cooling
Heat Pump:
-
quietest cooling
-
whisper-smooth heating
-
minor “swoosh” noise during defrost
If noise is your top concern, heat pumps win.
(Reference: Mechanical Noise Prevention and System Balancing Principles)
9. Cost Breakdown — Upfront vs. Long-Term
Here’s what Tony sees on actual job sites:
Cooling-Only Wall Units:
$550–$1,200
Cheapest install, cheapest repairs.
Electric Heat Wall Units:
$700–$1,500
Simple but expensive to run.
Heat Pump Wall Units:
$1,000–$2,000+
Higher upfront cost, best long-term savings.
He always weighs:
-
climate
-
room size
-
insulation
-
usage patterns
Before recommending a type.
10. Tony’s Direct Recommendations by Scenario
Tony doesn’t sugarcoat it. Here’s exactly what he recommends:
✔ If you only need cooling:
Choose Cooling-Only
✔ If you want heating but have mild winters:
Choose Heat Pump
✔ If winters drop below freezing often:
Choose Cooling-Only + Separate Heating Source
OR
Heat Pump With Electric Backup
✔ If budget is your main priority:
Choose Cooling-Only
✔ If you want best energy efficiency:
Choose Heat Pump
✔ If room is used occasionally:
Choose Cooling-Only or Electric Heat
Tony’s Final Verdict
Every homeowner wants the same thing:
Comfort without confusion.
Here’s Tony’s final word:
Cooling-Only:
Perfect for simple, reliable, long-lasting cooling.
Electric Heat:
Backup heat only. Don’t use it as your main heat source.
Heat Pump:
Best all-around option if your climate supports it.
Choose wisely, and your wall unit will run quietly, efficiently, and powerfully for a decade or more.
Choose wrong, and you’ll be fighting your room temperature every season.
In the next blog, Tony will discuss the noise levels of this system.
