Intro: Mike’s “Don’t Freeze” Game Plan 🥶🔥
Hey folks, Mike here again. We’ve already talked about keeping your PTAC heat pump in fighting shape, but what if the backup electric heat decides to quit on you? That’s like your parachute not opening—sure, you’ve still got something keeping you alive, but it’s gonna be a rough ride.
The good news is, electric heat is usually simpler to troubleshoot than a heat pump. If your Amana Distinctions 14,700 BTU PTAC with Heat Pump and 3.5 kW Electric Heat Backup isn’t delivering that sweet emergency warmth, here’s how to get it back online.
Step 1: Check the Power Supply ⚡
Backup heat elements are power-hungry. If there’s a problem with your electrical feed, they won’t work at all.
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Breaker Box: Look for a tripped breaker. Reset if needed, but if it trips again, there’s likely a short or overload.
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Dedicated Circuit: Make sure your PTAC is on its own circuit as recommended by NEC electrical guidelines.
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Voltage Test: If you have a multimeter and know how to use it safely, confirm the unit’s getting the right voltage.
Step 2: Verify Thermostat and Mode Settings 🖲️
The backup heat won’t turn on if the controls aren’t calling for it.
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Temperature Setting: Raise the set temp at least 5°F above room temp.
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Heat Mode: Ensure the system is in HEAT and not AUTO if you want to force backup heat.
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Test Mode: Many Amana PTACs have a test mode in the service menu that can trigger backup heat for diagnostics—check your Amana PTAC manual for the exact process.
Step 3: Inspect the Heating Element 🔥
The electric heating element is like the heart of your backup system.
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Signs of Failure:
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No heat at all when engaged
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A burning smell or visible scorching on the element
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Breakers tripping when it kicks on
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Fix: Heating elements can be replaced, but always disconnect power before working inside the unit.
For a look at what electric heating elements actually do, HVAC School has a good explainer.
Step 4: Look for Control Board Problems 💻
Your control board tells the system when to activate backup heat.
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Symptoms:
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Heat pump works, but backup never engages
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Other functions (fan, cooling) are fine
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Cause: Could be a bad relay, burnt trace, or firmware issue
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Solution: Board replacement is often easier than repair
Step 5: Check Safety Cutoffs & Limit Switches 🚫
If your backup heat overheated in the past, safety cutoffs might have opened to protect the unit.
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High Limit Switch: Opens if the element gets too hot—sometimes needs manual reset.
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Thermal Fuses: One-time fuses that blow if temps exceed safe limits. If one’s blown, you need to replace it and fix the cause of overheating.
Step 6: Know When to Call in the Big Guns 📞
If you’ve confirmed power, settings, and element condition but still have no backup heat, it’s pro time.
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Potential Problems for Pros to Handle:
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Hidden wiring damage
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Multiple component failures
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Complex control board diagnostics
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Find a Tech: The Air Conditioning Contractors of America’s locator can connect you with certified HVAC help.
Pro Tip: Don’t Rely on Backup Heat Full-Time 💡
Electric backup heat is great in emergencies, but it’s less efficient and more expensive to run than your heat pump. If you’re finding yourself using it constantly, it’s time to revisit why your heat pump isn’t handling the load.
Outro: Mike’s Final Word on Staying Toasty 🌡️
Electric heat backup is like a safety net—it’s not the star of the show, but it can save your bacon when the main act fumbles. Keep your PTAC’s electrical path clear, test the system before winter, and know the signs of a failing element.
If you need replacement parts or want to check your unit’s full specs, you can find them right on the Amana Distinctions PTAC product page here.
Need a maintenance checklist for this unit? Visit: Keep Your PTAC in Tip-Top Shape.
Stay warm,
—Mike, your cool HVAC neighbor
