Sniffing Out Trouble: Guide to Finding and Fixing R-32 Refrigerant Leaks in Your 5-Ton Combo System

🧢 Intro from Jake

Alright folks, pull up a lawn chair and let me tell you a little story. I once got called to a house in the middle of July—big 5-ton combo system, barely blowing any cold air. Homeowner thought maybe the filter was clogged or the thermostat was acting up. Spoiler alert: it was a refrigerant leak, and it had been bleeding out R-32 for weeks like a slow leak in a bike tire.

Now listen, if you’ve got a 5-ton AC and gas furnace combo that uses R-32 refrigerant, you’re running one of the most efficient, next-gen systems on the market. But when a refrigerant leak hits? It doesn’t matter how new or shiny it is—the cooling stops working, energy bills skyrocket, and your compressor’s at risk of tapping out.

That’s why today we’re walking through how to sniff out refrigerant leaks in your R-32 system, what tools you’ll need, how to fix it, and when it’s time to call in a licensed tech. R-32 is a little different from R-410A or the older stuff, so we’re gonna do it safe, smart, and Jake-style.

Let’s dig in.

 

🕵️ Section 1: Signs Your R-32 System Might Be Leaking Refrigerant

Before you grab your leak detector or soap bubbles, let’s talk symptoms. Here’s how your 5-ton system will start behaving if it’s losing refrigerant:

• The air isn’t as cold as it used to be

• Your energy bill’s creeping higher each month

• The indoor coil is icing up (even in summer)

• The outdoor unit runs constantly but doesn’t cool

• You hear a hissing or bubbling sound near the lines

A refrigerant leak doesn’t usually trigger a system shutdown—it just makes your system work harder and longer until it fails. If you’re seeing any of the symptoms above, it’s time to investigate.

For a deeper dive on refrigerant symptoms, check out this Energy Star HVAC maintenance guide.

 

🔍 Section 2: How R-32 Changes the Game for Leak Detection

R-32 is what they call an A2L refrigerant: mildly flammable, high-efficiency, and lower GWP (global warming potential) than older refrigerants. It’s the future, no doubt—but it comes with a couple of safety tweaks.

Here’s what makes R-32 different:

• It runs at higher pressure than R-22 or R-410A

• It’s flammable under certain leak conditions

• It’s heavier than air, so it tends to pool low

• Leak detection tools must be R-32 compatible

If you’re using a leak detector from 10 years ago, it might not be sensitive enough or even compatible with R-32’s characteristics. Always check that your detector supports A2L refrigerants.

Want the science on it? AHRI’s refrigerant safety document lays out how A2L behaves differently than A1-class refrigerants like R-410A.

 

🧰 Section 3: Jake’s Favorite Leak Detection Methods

Alright, time to get hands-on. Here are four time-tested ways to find refrigerant leaks, whether you’re a seasoned tech or a careful homeowner doing a pre-check before calling in help.

1. Electronic Leak Detector

Use a sniffer made for R-32. These are accurate, fast, and can detect even small ppm (parts per million) of gas. Just wave it slowly near suspected leak points—joints, flare fittings, coil ends.

2. Soap Bubble Test

Mix water and dish soap in a spray bottle and mist it on joints. If bubbles grow or hiss, bingo—you’ve got a leak. Simple, cheap, effective.

3. UV Dye and Blacklight

Inject a special dye into the refrigerant circuit, let the system run, and inspect with a blacklight. Leaks glow greenish-yellow at the source. Make sure to use dye that’s rated for R-32 pressure and oil compatibility.

4. Nitrogen Pressure Test

This one’s for pros. Evacuate the system, pressurize it with dry nitrogen, and monitor pressure loss. It’s the gold standard but requires gauges and care.

Need a comparison guide? HVAC School’s leak detection overview covers pros and cons of each method in detail.

 

🔩 Section 4: Where Leaks Happen Most Often

Leaks tend to show up in the same handful of places—especially on high-pressure R-32 systems.

Keep a close eye on:

• Copper flare joints at the outdoor unit

• Brazed joints that weren’t cleaned or purged properly

• Evaporator coils (especially at the U-bends)

• Capillary tubes and metering devices

• Service ports and Schrader valves

• Line sets that were kinked, crushed, or rubbed during install

And don’t forget to inspect the indoor coil. On combo systems, the evaporator coil is the unsung hero—and often the weakest link if it was handled rough during install.

 

🧯 Section 5: How to Safely Fix an R-32 Leak

Okay, you’ve found the leak—now what?

First rule of refrigerant work: no topping off without fixing the leak. That’s like adding oil to a car with a busted pan gasket. You’re just wasting refrigerant.

Here’s how to fix it right:

1. Shut off power to the system

2. Recover remaining refrigerant into a certified recovery tank

3. Repair the leak (replace the part, rebraze, or tighten flare)

4. Pressure test with nitrogen

5. Pull a deep vacuum using a micron gauge

6. Recharge with R-32 to the manufacturer’s exact specs

7. Test operation and check superheat/subcooling

Because R-32 is flammable under certain conditions, you shouldn’t attempt brazing without proper ventilation and a fire extinguisher nearby. The EPA’s A2L handling guide has best practices for working with flammable refrigerants.

If you’re not certified, it’s best to let a pro handle the charge and vacuum steps. But if you’re inspecting or prepping for service, you can still catch a leak before the damage gets worse.

 

🌡️ Section 6: Can You Prevent R-32 Leaks in the First Place?

You bet. Most R-32 leaks come down to bad brazing, loose flares, or physical damage to the lines.

Jake’s top tips for prevention:

• Always use torque wrenches for flare nuts—don’t just guess tightness

• Use nylon or rubber grommets when lines pass through framing

• Seal penetrations with foam or putty to prevent vibration wear

• Add a line set cover or channel to protect lines from sun and critters

• Avoid overcharging—excess pressure = future leaks

And make sure your installer follows proper R-32 charging procedures. Unlike older refrigerants, R-32 requires more precise measurements to avoid system strain and imbalance.

 

🧠 Section 7: What Happens if You Ignore the Leak?

I’ll keep it real here—ignoring a refrigerant leak is one of the most expensive mistakes you can make with a 5-ton system.

Here’s what can happen if you don’t fix it:

• Loss of cooling performance

• Frozen evaporator coil

• Overheating compressor

• Premature failure of your outdoor unit

• Refrigerant contamination (moisture and acids inside the system)

A lot of manufacturers, including Goodman and Amana, void their compressor warranty if the unit was run with low charge and the leak wasn’t repaired properly. Always register your product and follow through with professional repairs if needed.

Need proof? Consumer Reports ranks refrigerant issues as one of the top causes of premature AC replacement.

 

🧢 Final Thoughts from Jake

Well partner, if you made it this far, you’ve just gone from homeowner to honorary leak tech. R-32 might be the new kid on the block, but a leak is a leak—and if you know what to look for, you can stop it before it snowballs into a five-grand replacement.

Remember, refrigerant isn’t just about staying cool—it’s about system balance, efficiency, and protecting the heart of your HVAC setup. A 5-ton combo system runs hard, and that refrigerant charge needs to be airtight, literally.

If you’re hunting for a new system, upgrading your old one, or just want something future-ready, go take a look at The Furnace Outlet’s 5-ton R-32 AC and gas furnace combos. These are built for performance, safety, and long-term savings—as long as you keep them sealed and maintained.

Curious about installing a smart thermostat for this system/combo? Visit my guide: Get Smart, Stay Cool.

Catch y’all on the next job—wherever the pressure drops and the airflow stops, I’ll be there.

– Jake 🧊