Hey, I’m Mike Sanders—and if you’ve been shopping for a new PTAC unit, you’ve probably noticed there’s more than one way to heat a room. Some models use electric heat, others rely on heat pumps, and some tap into hydronic systems. It’s not just a technical detail—your choice can impact your comfort, energy bills, and maintenance needs for years to come.
So, let’s break each one down, figure out the pros and cons, and help you land on the right heat type for your building.
🔌 Option 1: Electric Resistance Heat
This is the most common type of PTAC heating, especially in hotels and apartments. Electric resistance heaters work like a giant toaster: current runs through metal coils, which heat up and blow warm air into the room.
✅ Pros:
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Simple and reliable — fewer moving parts to break
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Quick heat — warms up fast
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Inexpensive upfront cost
❌ Cons:
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Higher energy use — electric resistance isn’t very efficient
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Can get costly in cold climates — especially if it runs often
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No cooling efficiency improvement — works independently from the AC side
💡 Best For:
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Warmer climates where heat is used occasionally
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Tight budgets or simple installs
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Guest rooms where reliability matters more than long-term savings
❄️ Option 2: Heat Pump PTAC
A heat pump PTAC pulls heat from outside air and pushes it inside—like running an AC in reverse. These units are more efficient than electric-only heaters but don’t perform as well when it gets really cold outside.
✅ Pros:
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Energy-efficient — uses less electricity than electric resistance
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Dual function — same system cools and heats
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Lower long-term costs in moderate climates
❌ Cons:
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Loses efficiency below 35°F (1.6°C) — may need backup heat strip
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More complex — more components, more that can break
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Slightly higher initial cost
💡 Best For:
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Mild to moderate climates
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Owners focused on long-term energy savings
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Buildings where heating runs frequently
💧 Option 3: Hydronic Coil Heat
Hydronic PTACs use hot water from a boiler system that runs through a coil inside the unit. A fan blows air across the coil and warms the room. These are more common in older commercial buildings and high-rises with centralized boilers.
✅ Pros:
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Very efficient if building has a hot water loop
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Even, comfortable heat — not dry or overly hot
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Quiet operation
❌ Cons:
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Needs a boiler system — not standalone
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More expensive install — piping required
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Seasonal switchover delays in shared buildings
💡 Best For:
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Older hotels or buildings with a working boiler system
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Multi-room properties using centralized HVAC
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Institutional or commercial setups where consistency matters
🔁 Can I Combine These?
Some PTAC units offer dual heat sources—like a heat pump + electric backup strip. That way, you get efficiency most of the year and a reliable backup when it’s freezing outside. It's more expensive, but if you live in a place with four true seasons, it's worth a look.
♻️ And What About R-32?
Heating method doesn’t affect refrigerant type, but while you’re upgrading, consider switching to a unit with R-32 refrigerant. It’s better for the planet and often improves cooling performance too. Browse R-32 PTACs here.
🛠 Mike’s Take: What Should You Pick?
Here’s my no-nonsense cheat sheet:
Climate | Budget | Best Pick |
---|---|---|
Warm + dry | Low | Electric Heat |
Mild to cold | Medium | Heat Pump |
Central boiler | Varies | Hydronic Coil |
Four seasons | Higher | Heat Pump + Backup |
Still unsure? Think about how often you use the heat and what’s already built into your property. No use paying for a hydronic system if you don’t have a boiler—and no reason to burn money on electric resistance heat if a heat pump fits your weather.
Final Thoughts from Mike
Choosing the right heating option in your PTAC isn’t just about BTUs and fan speeds—it’s about how you live, how your building’s set up, and what kind of winter you’re dealing with. If you need help picking the right match, give the folks at The Furnace Outlet a shout. They’ve got R-32 models in every heating style, and they’ll make sure you don’t buy something that won’t work in your space.