Installation Guidelines & Venting Tips for the State ProLine 74-Gallon Gas Water Heater
(Get it installed safely, efficiently, and to code the first time)
Installing a high-capacity water heater like the State ProLine High Capacity 74-Gallon Gas Water Heater (GS6-75-XRRS) isn’t just about connecting pipes. This is a large, high-BTU appliance — with 75,100 BTU of heating power — that needs proper placement, venting, and gas line sizing to run safely and efficiently for years to come.
Whether you’re working with a licensed installer or want to understand the process as a homeowner, this guide covers everything you need to know: location, clearance, venting, combustion air, and startup.
🏗️ 1. Pre-Installation Planning
Before you bring the new tank into your utility room, it’s essential to make sure your home is ready for a high-capacity atmospheric vent heater.
✅ Step 1: Choose the Right Location
The U.S. Department of Energy recommends installing gas water heaters as close as possible to points of use (like bathrooms and kitchens) to reduce standby heat loss and water waste.
For the ProLine 74-gallon model, select a space that’s:
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Indoors and protected from freezing
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Level and capable of supporting 600+ pounds when filled
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Away from flammable materials or chemical fumes
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Within reach of the vent system and gas supply line
Placing the heater on a drain pan with a ¾-inch drain line is strongly advised, especially if it’s installed on an upper floor or near finished walls.
✅ Step 2: Verify Clearance Requirements
According to State Water Heaters’ official installation specifications, maintain at least:
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2 inches clearance from the sides and back
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12 inches from the front
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18 inches from the top for service access
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3 inches minimum clearance from vent connectors
These clearances help maintain safe airflow and make future maintenance easier.
🔌 2. Electrical and Gas Supply Requirements
Even though the GS6-75-XRRS doesn’t rely on electricity for operation, it still needs correct gas supply sizing and line pressure to function properly.
⚙️ Gas Supply
The Air Conditioning Contractors of America (ACCA) recommends sizing the gas line based on both total BTU demand and length of pipe run. For this 75,100 BTU unit, you’ll typically need a ¾-inch gas line for runs up to 20 feet, or a 1-inch line for longer distances.
Your installer should:
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Verify minimum inlet pressure (typically 5.0” W.C. for natural gas)
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Check for leaks with a soap solution before lighting
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Use a manual shutoff valve and sediment trap near the appliance
⚡ Electrical (Optional)
If adding accessories like a recirculation pump or powered damper, connect them to a grounded 120V circuit per National Electrical Code standards.
🔥 3. Venting: The Heart of Safe Operation
Proper venting is critical in gas water heaters — especially atmospheric vent systems like the State ProLine 74-gallon.
The DOE’s residential gas appliance guide emphasizes that vent performance depends on three things:
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Proper draft (temperature-driven air movement)
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Correct vent diameter and height
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Adequate combustion air supply
🧱 Vent Sizing
For a 75,100 BTU heater, a 4-inch B-vent is typical for short runs, increasing to 5-inch if the total vent height exceeds 15 feet or if the chimney has multiple appliances.
Follow the ASHRAE Standard 62.2 guidelines to ensure:
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A minimum of 1 square inch of vent area per 1,000 BTU of input for natural draft
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Secure, corrosion-resistant vent connectors
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Proper slope — at least ¼ inch per foot upward toward the chimney
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) recommends testing draft performance using a smoke pencil or match test near the hood — flames should draw inward consistently.
💨 4. Combustion Air: Don’t Starve the Flame
Combustion air is often overlooked, but it’s vital. Gas water heaters need oxygen to burn fuel efficiently.
According to Energy Star’s home ventilation standards, every 1,000 BTU of burner input requires at least 50 cubic feet of space for safe combustion.
🧩 If Your Room Is Too Small:
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Add two permanent air vents: one near the floor and one near the ceiling.
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Each vent should have at least one square inch of area per 4,000 BTU input.
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For tight homes, consider ducted combustion air from outside, following ASHRAE 62.2 ventilation codes.
🧯 5. Flue and Chimney Considerations
Your vent pipe must connect securely to a vertical flue or chimney that meets height and termination standards.
The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA 54) requires that gas vents:
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Extend at least 3 feet above the highest roof point within 10 feet
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Terminate with a listed vent cap to prevent downdraft and debris
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Use only Type B or L vent pipe for high-BTU appliances
Avoid combining this 75,100 BTU unit with low-draft appliances like older furnaces unless confirmed by a professional. Shared venting systems must comply with AHRI and ACCA joint-venting charts for safety and airflow balance.
💧 6. Plumbing & Water Connection
The water side of installation is just as critical as the venting.
🔩 Steps to Follow:
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Connect the cold inlet and hot outlet using ¾-inch copper or PEX piping rated for high temperature.
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Install a shutoff valve on the cold inlet.
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Use dielectric unions to prevent corrosion.
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Always install a Temperature and Pressure (T&P) relief valve — it’s a mandatory safety device that discharges if the water exceeds 210°F or 150 psi.
According to the DOE’s water heating safety regulations, the T&P discharge line must:
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Be made of metal or CPVC
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Slope downward and terminate within 6 inches of a floor drain
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Never be capped or plugged
🧪 7. Startup and Testing
Once installed, it’s time to start the system safely.
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Check all connections for leaks — both water and gas.
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Fill the tank completely with cold water before lighting the pilot.
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Open the pressure relief valve momentarily to remove air pockets.
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Follow the lighting instructions on the heater’s label.
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Verify a steady blue pilot flame (not yellow or flickering).
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Use a draft gauge or match test to confirm vent draw at the draft hood.
The National Renewable Energy Laboratory (NREL) recommends letting the system run through one complete heating cycle, then rechecking draft and combustion air afterward to confirm proper performance.
⚙️ 8. Common Installation Mistakes to Avoid
Even professional installers make mistakes when dealing with large-capacity water heaters. Here are the big ones to watch for:
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Undersized vent pipe: Leads to poor draft and backdrafting.
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Improper combustion air: Causes burner soot and carbon monoxide buildup.
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Plastic vent connectors: Unsafe for high-heat exhaust (use only metal B-vent).
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No sediment trap: Allows debris to enter the burner gas valve.
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No expansion tank: Can cause pressure buildup in closed plumbing systems.
Following EPA safety guidelines and your local mechanical code ensures both safety and efficiency long-term.
🧠 9. Jake’s Take: Get It Right Once
The State ProLine 74-Gallon is built for heavy-duty use, but it’ll only perform as designed if installed right.
Here’s what Jake would tell a homeowner:
“This isn’t a plug-and-play water heater. It’s a high-BTU system that needs breathing room, correct venting, and gas pressure. Get those right, and it’ll outlast your roof.”
When done properly, the result is a safe, efficient system that can deliver uninterrupted hot water for 15–20 years — with virtually no performance issues.
In the next Blog we will learn more about Operating Cost & Efficiency: What to Expect Yearly with the State ProLine 74-Gallon Gas Water Heater
