How to Test and Replace Heating Elements in 50–60 Gallon Electric Water Heaters (Without Freaking Out)

👋 What’s Up, Water Warriors!

It’s your girl Savvy Mavi, and today we’re getting hands-on with something that sounds scarier than it actually is: heating elements in electric water heaters.

Now if you’ve woken up to a cold shower—or halfway through your bubble bath the water turns arctic—you know something’s up. Most of the time, it’s either your thermostat or one of your heating elements that’s gone kaput.

The good news? Testing and replacing a heating element is totally DIY-friendly. We’re talking less than $25 in parts, about an hour of your time, and minimal tools. Ready to roll up your sleeves with me?

Let’s fix your hot water situation 💦🔧

 

First Things First: What Even Is a Heating Element?

Inside your electric water heater are usually two heating elements: one at the top, one at the bottom. They’re metal rods that heat up when electricity flows through them, kind of like a giant electric kettle.

Over time, they can burn out or get coated in sediment, especially if your area has hard water (👀 looking at you, Midwest).

If one goes bad, your water won’t heat evenly—or at all. But don’t panic! Most of the time, it’s an easy fix you can do with tools you probably already own.

 

🧰 What You’ll Need

Before you channel your inner electrician, gather these:

• Multimeter (to test for continuity)

• Screwdriver (Phillips and flat-head)

• Socket wrench or element wrench

• New heating element (match your old one’s specs)

• Garden hose (for draining the tank)

• Towel or bucket (for drips)

• Patience (but not too much)

Bonus: Some manufacturers also recommend Teflon tape or a new rubber gasket when reinstalling the element.

If you’re not sure what element fits your unit, check your model number and consult the manufacturer’s site for specs.

 

⚠️ Safety Check Before You Touch Anything

This is electric work near water—so yes, we’re gonna talk safety for a sec:

1. Turn off power at the breaker box. (Double-check it’s the right one!)

2. Test at the panel with a voltage tester or multimeter.

3. Don’t touch wires or terminals unless you’ve confirmed zero volts.

Still nervous? This guide from The Spruce breaks down how to safely handle your water heater’s electrical components.

Now let’s find out if the element is even the issue.

 

Step 1: How to Test a Heating Element 🔍

Once your tank is de-energized and your panel cover is off, here’s what to do:

1. Remove the access panels (usually two) and gently peel back the insulation.

2. Locate the heating element terminals—you’ll see two screws with wires attached.

3. Set your multimeter to the lowest ohms setting.

4. Place one probe on each screw terminal.

What you’re looking for:

• A reading between 10 and 30 ohms = Element is good

• No reading or infinite resistance = Bad element 💀

Also check for a short to ground:

• Place one probe on a terminal and the other on the metal tank.

• If it shows any reading besides “0” or “OL,” your element is grounding out and needs replacing.

Need a video walkthrough? Family Handyman has a killer guide.

 

Step 2: Drain the Tank (Just a Bit)

If the element is shot, it’s time to drain enough water to remove it safely.

1. Shut off the cold water supply.

2. Attach a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank.

3. Open a hot water faucet upstairs to break vacuum.

4. Open the drain valve and let about 2–3 gallons drain out.

This should lower the water level below the lower element. (If you're replacing the top one too, drain more.)

 

Step 3: Remove the Bad Element 🔩

Now for the fun part.

1. Unscrew the wires from the terminals and push them out of the way.

2. Using your socket wrench or element wrench, carefully loosen and remove the element.

3. Watch for drips—and have your towel or bucket handy.

Sometimes the old gasket sticks. Give it a gentle twist to break the seal.

Tip: Some newer models use bolt-in elements, while others use screw-in types. Match what you’re removing to your new one!

 

Step 4: Install the New Element 🎉

1. Slide in the new element.

2. Use a new rubber gasket (or the one included with your part).

3. Hand-tighten it first, then snug it up with the wrench—don’t overtighten!

4. Reattach the wires—tight and correct polarity.

Double-check that all your connections are snug but not stripped.

 

Step 5: Refill and Re-Energize 💡

1. Close the drain valve.

2. Turn the cold water supply back on.

3. Open a hot water faucet until all the air escapes and the flow is steady.

4. Only then turn the power back on at the breaker.

If you skip filling the tank and power it up dry, you’ll fry the new element instantly. Nooo, don’t do it!

 

Bonus Tip: Replace Both Elements at Once?

If one’s gone bad and your heater is 5+ years old, it might make sense to replace both elements now and save yourself future hassle. They’re affordable and easily swapped out once the tank is drained.

Some modern units even come with "dry fire" protection and low-watt density elements, which are longer-lasting and more efficient. I talk more about this in my buying guide here.

 

Other Signs It Might Not Be the Element

Before you go ordering parts, check for these signs it might be something else:

• Breaker keeps tripping? Could be a bad thermostat or wiring issue.

• Scorch marks or melted wires? Definitely time for a pro.

• Water smells like rotten eggs? That’s a job for a new anode rod, not the element (see This Old House’s advice here).

 

What If the Element Gets Stuck?

Ugh, it happens. Years of hard water buildup or overtightened threads can make removal tricky. Try:

• WD-40 around the threads (wipe it clean before installing the new one)

• Tapping the wrench gently with a rubber mallet

• Heating the surrounding area with a hair dryer to loosen it

Still stuck? You may need to call a plumber to avoid damaging the tank.

 

What It Costs to Replace a Heating Element

DIY part:

• Heating element: $15–$25

• Wrench: $8–$15

• Multimeter (if needed): $20

Pro install:

• Typically $150–$300, depending on location.

Some utility companies offer rebates or maintenance plans for electric water heaters—check out your local utility’s website to see what you might qualify for 💸

 

Savvy Wrap-Up 🌈

So there you go—testing and replacing a heating element isn’t just doable—it’s empowering! You’re saving time, money, and learning how to keep your home running like a pro.

Remember:

• Safety first, always

• Multimeter = your best friend

• Drain before you detach

• Refill before you re-power

If you're ready to upgrade, replace a failing unit, or explore more efficient models, I’ve got you. Check out the best 50–60 gallon electric heaters over at The Furnace Outlet and start your next hot water chapter today 💧❤️

Curious about how much time it takes to install your water heater? Visit my guide: How Long Does It Really Take to Install a 50–60 Gallon Electric Water Heater? (Spoiler: Faster Than You Think).

Until next time, stay warm and savvy 🔥
—Mavi ✌️