Hey folks—Tony Marino here again. You’re picking out a new PTAC unit (good move), but there’s one little number tripping folks up more often than it should: the voltage.
I can’t tell you how many people grab a great PTAC deal online… only to find out later their building can’t power it properly. That’s an expensive mistake—and one that’s totally avoidable if you know the difference between 208V, 230V, and 265V.
So let’s break it down, the easy way.
First Things First: Why Voltage Matters
PTAC units aren’t plug-and-play like a box fan. They draw serious power. If your building isn’t wired for the voltage your PTAC needs, best case? It doesn’t run. Worst case? You trip breakers, fry circuits, or damage your new system.
Matching your unit’s voltage to your electrical supply is not optional—it’s essential.
208V vs. 230V: What’s the Real Difference?
Both 208V and 230V are considered “high-voltage” residential/commercial power, and most PTACs you’ll find are designed for one or the other.
Here’s what you need to know:
| Voltage | Common In | What to Know |
|---|---|---|
| 208V | Apartment buildings, hotels, and large commercial spaces | Usually part of a 3-phase power supply. Don’t assume your building has it—ask your electrician or property manager. |
| 230V | Standard for most homes and small commercial properties | More common than 208V, but not universal. Check your panel before you buy a 230V PTAC. |
🔌 Tony’s Tip: Many PTACs are labeled “208/230V,” but that doesn’t mean the voltage is interchangeable. It means the unit can handle slight variations—but you still need to match it properly to your building’s power.
What About 265V?
265V is typically used in older commercial buildings, especially government or institutional spaces. It’s not common in residential homes.
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If your building runs 265V, you need a PTAC that specifically supports it.
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Don’t try to install a 230V PTAC on a 265V circuit—you’ll cook the electronics in no time.
✅ Good to Know: 265V units are usually hardwired, not plug-in. You’ll also need a dedicated circuit and the right wall sleeve and subbase to handle the extra load.
Plug Types & Breakers Matter Too
Just because a PTAC says “230V” doesn’t mean the plug will fit every 230V outlet. Here are the three big things to check:
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Voltage (208V, 230V, 265V)
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Amperage (15A, 20A, or 30A)
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Plug Type (NEMA 6-15P, 6-20P, etc.)
If you mismatch any of these, the unit won’t work—or worse, it could be unsafe.
Quick Checklist Before You Buy a PTAC:
✅ Check your building’s available voltage (ask a pro if needed)
✅ Match the PTAC’s voltage and amperage to your circuit
✅ Make sure the plug type and outlet match
✅ Consider installation accessories—sleeves, subbases, disconnects, and dedicated breakers
Tony’s Bottom Line
When it comes to PTACs, voltage is not something to guess at. The wrong match can delay your install, void your warranty, or cause serious damage. Always check before you buy.
If you’re not sure what your building supports, call in a licensed electrician—or shoot us a message at The Furnace Outlet. We’ve got units in every voltage range and can walk you through what’s best for your space.
