Few things are more frustrating than this:
“The furnace tries to start… but the flame never stays on.”
You might hear clicking.
You might see the blower run.
You might even see flame for a second—then nothing.
When a furnace won’t light, homeowners often jump straight to “bad furnace” or “no gas.” In reality, most no-light situations come down to a small number of overlooked issues, not total system failure.
80,000 BTU 80% AFUE Upflow/Horizontal Single Stage Goodman Gas Furnace - GR9S800803BN
Let’s walk through how techs actually diagnose this—and how you can tell what category your problem falls into.
🧠 First: How a Furnace Is Supposed to Light
Understanding the sequence matters.
A typical gas furnace lights in this order:
-
Thermostat calls for heat
-
Inducer motor starts
-
Pressure switch proves airflow
-
Igniter heats up (or pilot lights)
-
Gas valve opens
-
Flame lights
-
Flame is proven (sensor/thermocouple)
-
Blower starts
If any one step fails, the furnace shuts down for safety.
🔎 Big Picture: Three Categories of “Won’t Light”
When a furnace won’t light, the cause almost always falls into one of these:
-
🔥 Ignition failure (igniter or thermocouple)
-
🛢️ Gas supply problem
-
⚠️ Safety logic stopping ignition
The most overlooked issues live in category #3.
🔥 Igniter vs. Thermocouple — Know What Your Furnace Uses
Modern Furnaces: Hot Surface Igniters (HSI)
-
Glow orange/white hot
-
Light gas directly
-
Wear out over time (very common failure)
Older Furnaces: Standing Pilot + Thermocouple
-
Small pilot flame burns constantly
-
Thermocouple proves flame presence
-
If thermocouple fails → gas shuts off
📎 Furnace component basics:
👉 https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/furnaces-and-boilers
🧨 Overlooked Cause #1: Flame Sensor / Thermocouple Contamination
This is the most common reason a furnace lights briefly—then shuts off.
What Happens
-
Flame lights
-
Sensor doesn’t detect it
-
Gas valve closes within seconds
-
Furnace retries or locks out
Why It’s Overlooked
-
Flame is visible, so people assume it’s not the problem
-
The part looks fine
-
It’s tiny and easy to ignore
Reality
Oxidation coats the sensor and prevents it from reading flame properly.
This causes no-heat calls every winter.
📎 Manufacturer learning center:
👉 https://www.goodmanmfg.com/resources/hvac-learning-center
🛢️ Overlooked Cause #2: Gas Supply Is Present… But Not Enough
Many homeowners assume gas is either “on” or “off.”
That’s not how furnaces work.
Common Gas Supply Problems
-
Gas shutoff valve partially closed
-
Low inlet gas pressure during cold snaps
-
Regulator icing (rare, but real)
-
Other gas appliances drawing heavy load
-
Recently worked-on gas line with air trapped inside
What It Looks Like
-
Igniter glows
-
Gas valve opens
-
Flame is weak or uneven
-
Ignition fails or drops out
This gets misdiagnosed as an igniter failure all the time.
⚠️ Overlooked Cause #3: Pressure Switch & Venting Issues
This one stops ignition before gas ever flows.
What the Pressure Switch Does
It confirms that exhaust gases can safely leave the furnace.
If it doesn’t close:
-
Igniter may never energize
-
Gas valve never opens
-
Furnace appears “dead” during ignition
Why It’s Missed
-
No visible error
-
Furnace looks powered
-
Thermostat shows heat call
-
Homeowner focuses on gas instead of airflow
Common Winter Triggers
-
Frozen or blocked vent pipe
-
Snow covering exhaust/intake
-
Weak inducer motor
-
Long or poorly pitched vent runs
📎 Furnace venting basics:
👉 https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/furnaces-and-boilers
🔌 Igniter Faults (Still Common, Just Not Always the Culprit)
Igniters do fail—often quietly.
Signs of a Failed Igniter
-
No glow at all
-
Cracked ceramic
-
Furnace clicks but never lights
-
Repeated failed ignition attempts
Jake’s Reality Check
Igniters are wear items. If yours is 4–6 years old, it’s a prime suspect—but confirm before replacing.
🧯 Safety Lockouts That Prevent Lighting
Modern furnaces remember failures.
Lockout Triggers
-
Too many failed ignition attempts
-
Overheating events
-
Flame sensed when it shouldn’t be
-
Pressure switch faults
Once locked out, the furnace will not light again until reset.
🧠 Homeowner Diagnostic Flow (Safe Steps Only)
✅ Step 1: Observe
-
Does inducer motor run?
-
Does igniter glow?
-
Does flame appear briefly?
-
Any blinking error codes?
✅ Step 2: Check the Obvious
-
Gas shutoff valve fully open
-
Furnace power on
-
Air filter clean
-
Vents clear (inside and outside)
✅ Step 3: Reset Once (Not Repeatedly)
-
Thermostat OFF
-
Furnace power OFF for 2 minutes
-
Restore power and call for heat
Repeated resets without fixing the cause can make things worse.
🛑 When to Stop DIY Immediately
Call a professional if:
-
You smell gas
-
Flame lights violently or bangs
-
Furnace locks out repeatedly
-
You’re unsure about gas or electrical components
-
CO detector alarms
📎 CO safety reference:
👉 https://www.cdc.gov/carbon-monoxide/about/index.html
🧠 Jake’s Quick Comparison: What’s Most Likely?
| Symptom | Likely Cause |
|---|---|
| Igniter glows, no flame | Gas supply issue |
| Flame lights then shuts off | Flame sensor / thermocouple |
| No glow, no flame | Pressure switch / igniter |
| Works after reset, fails again | Safety lockout |
| Only fails in cold weather | Venting / pressure switch |
✅ Jake’s Final Take
When a furnace won’t light, the problem is rarely mysterious—and almost never random.
Most no-light calls come down to:
-
Flame not being proved
-
Gas not flowing properly
-
Safety systems doing their job
If you diagnose in order—and respect safety—you’ll either restore heat or know exactly why you’re calling for service.







