One chilly November morning, I turned on my Amana 11,500 BTU Through-the-Wall AC/Heat Pump (PBH113J35CC) expecting cozy warmth. Instead, lukewarm air trickled out. My first thought? It’s broken. My second thought? How much is this going to cost me?
But after a little digging (and some trial and error), I realized the fix was simple—just a dirty filter. That’s the thing about wall units: most “big problems” come down to small, easy-to-solve issues.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through the most common Amana wall unit problems, the likely causes, and the fixes you can try before calling a professional.
🌬️ Problem #1: Weak Airflow or No Cooling
Symptoms:
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Air barely comes out of the vents.
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Cooling feels weak or uneven.
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Unit runs constantly but doesn’t cool the room.
Possible Causes:
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Dirty filter blocking airflow.
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Clogged or dirty coils.
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Blocked vents or furniture too close to the unit.
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Iced-over evaporator coil (especially if run too cold for too long).
Fixes:
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Wash or replace the filter (Amana filters are washable).
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Vacuum and clean coils with coil cleaner.
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Move obstructions at least 2 feet away from the unit.
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If coils are iced over, turn the unit to fan mode until thawed.
💡 Samantha’s Story: I once thought my Amana had “lost power.” The culprit? A filter so clogged with dust it looked like felt. One wash later, airflow was back to normal.
❄️ Problem #2: Blowing Warm Air in Cooling Mode
Symptoms:
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AC runs, but air feels warm.
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Room temperature never drops.
Possible Causes:
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Thermostat accidentally set to heat mode.
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Dirty coils reducing cooling efficiency.
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Low refrigerant (requires professional repair).
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Outdoor temperatures too hot, causing strain.
Fixes:
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Double-check thermostat settings.
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Clean filters and coils.
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If problem persists, call a licensed HVAC tech to check refrigerant.
👉 Energy.gov notes that refrigerant leaks should always be handled by professionals—not DIY.
🔥 Problem #3: Not Heating Properly
Symptoms:
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Unit runs in heat mode but feels cool.
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Room doesn’t stay warm.
Possible Causes:
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Heat pump limitation: Efficiency drops below 30–35°F.
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Backup electric heat not engaging.
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Tripped breaker or faulty 230/208V outlet.
Fixes:
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Make sure thermostat is set correctly (heat mode, not auto).
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If outside temps are below freezing, understand that heat pumps lose efficiency—this is when the backup electric resistance heat kicks in.
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If backup isn’t running, check breakers and outlet.
💡 Samantha’s Story: On a 15°F night, my unit felt weak. I learned that this isn’t a “problem”—it’s how heat pumps work. I paired mine with a small space heater for super-cold nights.
⚡ Problem #4: Unit Won’t Turn On
Symptoms:
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Unit is unresponsive.
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No display, no fan, no sound.
Possible Causes:
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Tripped breaker.
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Faulty or unplugged 230/208V outlet.
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Power cord damage.
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Internal electrical failure.
Fixes:
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Check the breaker box.
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Test outlet with another appliance (if rated for 230V).
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Inspect power cord for visible damage.
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Press the reset button on the plug (if equipped).
👉 If none of these work, it’s likely an internal electrical issue that needs a pro.
💧 Problem #5: Water Leaks or Musty Odors
Symptoms:
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Puddles near the wall unit.
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Musty or moldy smells when the unit runs.
Possible Causes:
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Clogged drain line or pan.
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Improper sleeve slope (should tilt slightly outward).
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Mold in filter or coils.
Fixes:
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Clear the drain hole with a stiff wire or compressed air.
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Ensure wall sleeve slopes outward for proper drainage.
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Wash filter with warm soapy water.
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Rinse drain pan with vinegar to prevent mold growth.
💡 Samantha’s Story: I ignored my drain for too long—one morning, I found water dripping inside. A quick vinegar rinse solved the odor, and I now check the drain monthly.
📱 Problem #6: Remote or Thermostat Not Responding
Symptoms:
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Remote doesn’t control the unit.
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Thermostat settings don’t change the temperature.
Possible Causes:
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Dead remote batteries.
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Remote not paired with the unit.
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Thermostat malfunction.
Fixes:
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Replace batteries in the remote.
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Re-pair the remote with the unit (see manual).
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Reset thermostat.
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If using a smart thermostat, check Wi-Fi connection.
💡 Samantha’s Story: I panicked when my Amana stopped responding—turned out the remote batteries were dead. Always check the simple stuff first.
🔊 Problem #7: Strange Noises
Symptoms:
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Rattling, buzzing, or grinding sounds.
Possible Causes:
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Loose front grille or sleeve gaps.
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Debris stuck in fan.
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Compressor or motor issues (serious).
Fixes:
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Tighten screws on the grille.
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Inspect for debris inside.
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If noise persists, call a pro—especially for grinding or buzzing.
🛠️ When to Call a Pro
While most problems are DIY-friendly, some require professional service:
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Refrigerant leaks.
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Persistent electrical issues.
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Compressor or motor failure.
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Recurring leaks despite cleaning.
👉 Consumer Reports advises annual professional inspections for wall units to catch issues early.
🌀 Samantha’s Troubleshooting Routine
When my Amana isn’t working right, here’s the step-by-step process I follow:
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Check filter → 80% of the time, it’s dirty.
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Check thermostat settings → Sometimes it’s in the wrong mode.
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Inspect drains and seals → Leaks or odors usually trace here.
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Reset power → Breakers and outlets can surprise you.
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Call a pro if it’s refrigerant or electrical.
👉 9 times out of 10, the fix is simple and free.
✅ Final Takeaways
If your Amana 11,500 BTU Wall Unit isn’t heating or cooling properly, don’t panic.
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Filters, drains, and thermostat settings cause most issues.
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Heat pumps struggle below freezing—that’s normal, not a failure.
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Backup electric heat and sealing make a big difference in comfort.
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Pro help is only needed for refrigerant, electrical, or persistent failures.
Samantha’s verdict: Most issues are minor, and a quick DIY check can save you time, stress, and money.
In the next topic we will know more about: Amana vs. GE vs. Friedrich: Which 11,500 BTU Wall Unit Should You Choose?
