Troubleshooting Guide: What to Do If Your 5 Ton R-32 System Isn’t Cooling or Heating Right

Troubleshooting Guide: What to Do If Your 5 Ton R-32 System Isn’t Cooling or Heating Right

Tony Marino’s Step-by-Step Fix-It Plan Before You Call a Pro


🧰 Tony’s Intro: “When It’s Hot and Your System’s Not”

There’s nothing worse than a summer afternoon when your 5 Ton Goodman suddenly decides to take the day off.

Maybe it’s blowing warm air. Maybe it’s short cycling. Maybe it’s just humming and not kicking on.

I’ve seen it all. And the good news? A lot of it isn’t serious — or expensive.

This guide walks you through real-world troubleshooting, exactly how I’d diagnose your system in the field.
No jargon, no panic — just step-by-step logic from a guy who’s fixed hundreds of these.


⚙️ 1. Know Your System

Your Goodman 5 Ton 14 SEER2 R-32 system has two main parts:

  • The outdoor condenser (GLXS4BA6010) — where heat gets dumped outside.

  • The indoor air handler (AMST60DU1300) — where cold air circulates through your home.

If one fails or loses communication, cooling stops — even if the fan is still running.

👉 Tony’s Tip:
Before diving in, grab a flashlight, multimeter (if you’re comfortable), and check your thermostat batteries. You’d be shocked at how many “dead systems” are just weak batteries.


🧾 2. Step One — Check the Basics

Before you touch any panels or wires:

Thermostat set to COOL (or HEAT) and fan to AUTO.
Breaker ON for both indoor and outdoor units.
Filter clean (replace if it’s more than 30 days old).
Vents open and are not blocked by rugs or furniture.
Condensate drain clear (no water tripping float switch).

(Energy Star quick start checklist)

👉 Tony’s Rule:
Start with the simple stuff — it solves half of all no-cool calls I get.


🧊 3. Warm Air from Vents — Cooling Mode Failing

If your thermostat says COOL but the air is warm:

Likely Cause What You Can Do
Dirty filter Replace it
Blocked return vent Clear obstruction
Dirty indoor coil Clean or schedule service
Outdoor fan not spinning Check the power / capacitor
Low refrigerant Call tech — leak check

(Energy.gov cooling system troubleshooting)

👉 Tony’s Tip:
If the outdoor unit isn’t running, check the disconnect box beside it. Some have a removable pull fuse — make sure it’s seated properly.


💨 4. Weak Airflow

Weak airflow can make it feel like your system “isn’t cooling” when it’s actually under strain.

Check these:

  • Filter: Replace immediately.

  • Blower motor: Listen — if you hear humming but no spin, it’s likely a capacitor issue.

  • Ducts: Inspect for disconnected or crushed sections.

  • Evaporator coil: Frost buildup = restricted airflow or low refrigerant.

👉 Tony’s Trick:
Take a flashlight and peek at the coil behind the air filter — if you see ice, shut the system off immediately. Running it frozen kills compressors.


⚡ 5. System Not Turning On

If nothing happens — no fan, no click, no hum:

Problem DIY Check
Thermostat batteries dead Replace them
Tripped breaker Reset (once)
The float switch tripped Clear condensate pan
Blown fuse on the control board Call pro

(Goodman MFG control board troubleshooting)

👉 Tony’s Warning:
If the breaker trips again right away, stop. You’ve got a shorted wire, failing capacitor, or locked compressor — needs a tech.


🔩 6. Loud Buzzing or Clicking Outside

This usually means your condenser is getting power but can’t start.

Sound Tony’s Diagnosis
Buzzing Bad capacitor or contactor
Clicking Relay is trying to start the compressor
Grinding Failing fan motor
Silence No power at all

👉 Tony’s Field Tip:
If you can hear the condenser hum but the fan isn’t spinning, you can try nudging it with a stick — if it starts, your capacitor’s toast. Replace immediately.


💧 7. Water Around the Air Handler

A clogged condensate drain is the most common cause of indoor water leaks.

  • Pour 1 cup of white vinegar into the drain every 3 months.

  • Make sure the PVC drain exits outdoors or to a floor drain.

  • Install a float switch if your system doesn’t have one.

(Energy Star maintenance guide)

👉 Tony’s Tip:
If water overflows trips the safety switch, your system will shut down completely — no cooling until it’s cleared.


🧩 8. Short Cycling (System Turns On/Off Rapidly)

This wears out compressors faster than anything else.

Cause Tony’s Fix
Dirty coil Clean condenser
Low refrigerant Call a pro for a leak check
Oversized system Verify load match
Thermostat location Move away from vents or sunlight

(Energy.gov AC cycling guide)

👉 Tony’s Advice:
A 5 Ton system on a 2,000 sq. ft. home can short-cycle if ductwork or airflow aren’t sized right. Balance the system — don’t just replace parts.


🧊 9. Frozen Coils

If your indoor coil turns into an ice block, you’ve got one of three issues:

  1. Airflow restriction (dirty filter or duct).

  2. Low refrigerant charge.

  3. Thermostat running constantly in “ON” fan mode.

👉 Tony’s Fix:

  • Turn the system OFF.

  • Set the fan to ON (air only).

  • Let it defrost for 6–8 hours.

Then restart and see if it freezes again — if yes, it’s refrigerant or coil related.


⚙️ 10. Compressor Running but No Cooling

This means the system is working — just not transferring heat efficiently.

Likely Issue Fix
Dirty outdoor coil Rinse gently
Low refrigerant Leak repair
Blower speed wrong Check ECM settings
Expansion valve fault Tech repair

👉 Tony’s Note:
Don’t add refrigerant blindly. R-32 is precise — overcharging can actually reduce cooling.


🧠 11. Strange Noises

Noise Tony’s Diagnosis
Whistling Duct leak or restricted return
Banging Fan obstruction
Screeching Blower bearing
Popping Duct expansion
Clicking Contactor relay


👉 Tony’s Saying:

“Every sound means something. The trick is learning its language before it becomes a scream.”


💨 12. System Running Constantly

Your Goodman’s designed for efficiency, not marathon cycles.

Cause Solution
Undersized ducts Add return or larger grilles
Dirty coil Clean evaporator
Thermostat misread Relocate
Low charge Tech service

👉 Tony’s Field Tip:
A system that “never shuts off” may actually be short of return air. Add a second intake if static pressures’s above 0.7" WC.


💡 13. Burning or Electrical Smell

Immediately shut the system OFF.

Odor Tony’s Guess
Dusty smell Normal after a long idle
Burning plastic Motor or wire insulation
Musty Mold in the coil or drain

(Energy Star indoor air quality tips)

👉 Tony’s Rule:
If it smells like burning rubber, call a pro. Never ignore electrical smells — they’re early fire warnings.


⚡ 14. R-32 Safety Checks

R-32 is a low-flammable refrigerant — totally safe in sealed systems, but follow these rules:

  • Always install in well-ventilated areas.

  • Don’t smoke or use open flames near service ports.

  • Never vent refrigerant into the air.

👉 Tony’s Take:
If your system leaks, don’t panic. It’s not explosive — but it needs sealing and recharge by a licensed tech.


🧾 15. Check the Air Handler Control Board

Modern air handlers have built-in diagnostics (LEDs).

LED Code Meaning
Steady On Normal
Flash 3x Pressure switch open
Flash 5x Defrost/sensor issue
Flash 7x Communication loss

👉 Tony’s Tip:
Note the flash pattern and call your installer — it helps pinpoint the problem fast.


💧 16. Condensate Pump Failures

If your air handler is in a basement or attic, a condensate pump clears water.

If it fails:

  • The float switch will kill power to prevent overflow.

  • The fix is usually cleaning sludge or replacing the pump (~$100–$150).

👉 Tony’s Tip:
Test it each spring — pour water into the pump reservoir and make sure it kicks on.


🧱 17. When to Stop Troubleshooting

Stop if you notice:

  • Ice is forming repeatedly.

  • The breakers tripped twice.

  • Oil stains on the lineset.

  • Refrigerant hiss.

  • Blower not spinning after reset.

Those are all signs of mechanical or electrical faults that need professional diagnosis.


🧰 18. Tony’s Diagnostic Flow

  1. Check thermostat & breakers.

  2. Verify airflow (filter, coil, ducts).

  3. Inspect the condenser fan & compressor.

  4. Check the drain & float switch.

  5. Observe coil frost or leaks.

  6. Call a pro if refrigerant or electronics are suspect.

👉 Tony’s Rule:
Always shut off power before opening panels. One wrong move on a live capacitor can ruin your day.


💵 19. Typical Repair Costs

Issue Cost (Parts + Labor)
Capacitor replacement $150–$300
Contactor $100–$250
Blower motor $800–$1,000
Coil cleaning $150
Refrigerant leak fix $500–$1,200


👉 Tony’s Take:
Half of those repairs never happen when maintenance is done yearly. Prevention pays.


🏁 20. Tony’s Final Word

If your Goodman 5 Ton R-32 system stops cooling or heating right, don’t panic — just think like a tech.

Check power, airflow, and drainage before assuming the worst. Most problems are minor, and 70% of them can be solved without replacing major parts.

👉 Tony’s Bottom Line:

“Your system’s talking — you just need to know what it’s saying.”

With R-32 technology, Goodman’s reliability, and a little homeowner know-how, you’ll keep things running cool and quiet for years.

Now, let's know about the Warranty and Lifespan of the 5 Ton R-32 system. 

Tony’s toolbox talk

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