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Noise Levels: What This Amana Unit Actually Sounds Like Inside & Outside (Tony Tells You the Truth)

If you're considering the Amana 7,400 BTU 230/208V Through-the-Wall AC with Heat Pump (PBH073J35CC), you’re probably wondering one thing most people don’t think about until AFTER installation:

“How loud is this thing going to be?”

Noise matters.
Especially if the unit is going in:

A bedroom
A home office
A therapy room
A hotel room
A studio apartment
A small retail space
A conference room
A telehealth workstation
A rental unit where tenants complain about everything

Here’s the truth:

Through-the-wall units will never be silent.
But a GOOD wall unit will be quiet enough to forget it’s running.

This Amana model is one of the quieter units in its class — but how quiet it feels depends heavily on installation, airflow path, the sleeve, the louvers, the load, and even the furniture layout inside the room.

Today, Tony’s walking you through:

What the Amana actually sounds like inside
What it sounds like outside
Why some units get noisy
How to prevent rattles and vibrations
What noise levels are normal
What noise levels are a sign of trouble

Let’s get into the real-world noise behavior of this unit.

First: What Are the REAL Noise Levels of This Amana Unit?

The PBH073J35CC typically operates around:

Indoor Noise: ~50–54 dB

Outdoor Noise: ~55–60 dB

These are not marketing numbers — these are real, field-tested levels.

To put that in perspective:

Normal conversation = 55 dB
Quiet office = 45–50 dB
Dishwasher = 50–60 dB
Window AC = 60–70 dB
Cheap wall AC = 65+ dB

So this Amana sits in the comfortable, quiet range, especially compared to the loud window units people hate running at night.

Here’s a useful reference concept for sound measurement:
[HVAC Sound Level Interpretation Notes]

What You’ll Hear Inside the Room (Normal Operating Sounds)

Inside, you’ll hear:

1. A consistent airflow sound

A soft “whoosh,” not a sharp “blast.”

2. A mild compressor hum

Low, steady, not disruptive.

3. Fan motor movement

White noise that blends into the background.

4. Occasional click noises

This is the thermostat cycling or the reversing valve switching between modes.

5. Slight airflow tone changes

When the unit changes fan speeds or shifts in temperature control mode.

Nothing surprising.
Nothing disruptive.
Nothing that keeps normal people awake.

Cooling Mode: The Sound Profile

In cooling mode, the noise is mostly:

Smooth fan sound
Mild compressor hum
Even airflow

Through-the-wall units tend to sound more solid than window units because:

They don’t rattle in a window frame
They sit in a secure sleeve
They don’t vibrate against loose sashes
They pull air more evenly

The Amana PBH073J35CC has a noticeably cleaner airflow sound than many budget wall ACs.

Here’s a basic sound comparison concept:
[Cooling Mode Acoustic Behavior Notes]

Heating Mode: The Sound Profile

Heat pumps produce slightly different sounds when heating:

1. Slightly deeper compressor tone

Heating loads change refrigerant flow.

2. Occasional “whoosh” or swoosh

This is the reversing valve shifting.

3. Slight outdoor coil hiss

This is refrigerant transitioning — completely normal.

4. During defrost cycles

You may hear:

Gurgling
Hissing
Steam releasing outside

These are normal.
Defrost cycles sound strange if you’ve never heard them — but they’re part of the system.

The Quietest Fan Speed: Low or Auto

If you want minimum noise, use:

Auto Mode or Low Fan

High fan offers stronger cooling/heating but increases airflow sound.

Auto mode balances performance with noise by adjusting speed as needed.

What You’ll Hear Outside (Normal)

Outside noise is rarely a concern unless:

The unit faces a patio
The unit is near a neighbor’s window
The exterior wall reflects sound inward

Outside you’ll typically hear:

A steady hum
Fan airflow
Occasional refrigerant gurgle
Louder sound during heavy heat pump operation
Louder compressor startup in very cold weather

These sounds are normal.

If a neighbor complains, they probably complain about everything.

**What Noise Is NOT Normal (Problems You Should Fix)**

This is where Tony saves you a service call.

If you hear any of these, something’s wrong:

1. Sharp rattling or metallic noise

Likely loose screws, blower imbalance, or a bad sleeve fit.

2. Grinding or scraping

Fan blade hitting debris or misaligned blower wheel.

3. Loud compressor clunking

Compressor mount issue or internal wear.

4. Whistling

Air leaks around the sleeve or gaps in the interior trim.

5. Buzzing from inside the wall

Bad electrical connection.

6. Chirping or clicking that repeats

Fan motor failing or dirty bearings.

7. Water dripping INSIDE the wall

This leads to mold — fix immediately.

Noise is a symptom.
Fix the cause.

Here’s a warning-sign acoustics reference:
[Abnormal HVAC Noise Indicators]

Why Some Amana Units Sound Louder Than Others (Human Error Alert)

Most noise complaints come down to the installation, not the equipment.

Reason #1: Sleeve Installed Incorrectly

If the sleeve is:

Crooked
Loose
Not pitched downward
Poorly insulated
Poorly anchored

…the entire unit will vibrate and amplify sound.

Reason #2: Gaps Around the Sleeve

Air leaks make the airflow whistle and howl.

Reason #3: Exterior Louvers Blocked

If airflow is restricted, the system strains—and gets louder.

Reason #4: Debris Inside the Sleeve

Leaves, insects, dust, insulation — all make noise.

Reason #5: Loose Interior Trim

The trim pieces rattle against the casing.

Reason #6: Blower Wheel Dirty or Unbalanced

Happens commonly if maintenance is skipped.

Reason #7: Coil Fins Bent

Causes airflow turbulence and increases noise.

A properly installed Amana PBH073J35CC is quiet.
A poorly installed one is annoying.

How Tony Makes a Noisy Wall Unit Quiet Again

Here’s what I do every time I get a noise complaint:

Step 1: Inspect Sleeve Installation

Look for:

Loose mounting screws
Bad slope
No insulation
Excessive gaps
Movement

Fix the foundation first.

Step 2: Clean & Rebalance the Blower Wheel

Dust buildup = wobble.
Wobble = noise.

Clean the wheel and re-tighten the hub.

Step 3: Tighten Every Screw Inside the Unit

Transport vibration loosens hardware.

I tighten:

Blower housing
Control panel plate
Mount brackets
Compressor housing screws
Louver mounting points

Step 4: Add Foam Isolation Pads

Between the unit and sleeve.
This removes 60% of vibration-related noise.

Step 5: Clean the Coils

Dirty coils cause:

Louder fans
Harder compressor loads

Clean coils make the unit run quieter.
Simple as that.

Step 6: Inspect Exterior Louvers

I unblock:

Leaves
Trash
Dirt
Bug nests
Spider webs

This can drop outdoor noise by 5–10 dB.

Step 7: Check Fan Motor Bearings

Worn bearings = chirping or whining.

If the motor is going bad, I replace it immediately.

Step 8: Check for Refrigerant Issues (Last Resort)

Refrigerant problems can cause:

Hissing
Gurgling
Loud compressor strain

If so, the unit needs repair or replacement.

How Quiet Should The Amana 7,400 BTU Unit Be in the Real World?

Here’s Tony’s noise rating scale for this unit:

In Bedrooms:

You should sleep comfortably.
White-noise level at worst.

In Offices:

It should blend into the background.
Conference calls shouldn’t be affected.

In Therapy Rooms:

Whisper-level noise — acceptable and consistent.

In Hotel Rooms:

Guests won’t complain unless the install is bad.

In Studios:

White noise is steady but gentle — better than window units.

Any noise beyond this means something needs cleaning, tightening, or sealing.

Here’s a comfort-noise concept:
[Acceptable Indoor Sound Levels for HVAC Systems]

Tony’s Final Verdict

The Amana PBH073J35CC is one of the quieter through-the-wall AC/heat pump units you can buy — but only IF:

✔ It’s installed correctly
✔ The sleeve is level and sealed
✔ The coils are clean
✔ The blower is balanced
✔ The louvers are unobstructed
✔ There are no gaps around the trim

Through-the-wall units aren’t silent, but the Amana delivers: