If you’re considering a GE Zoneline 17,400 BTU Vertical Packaged Terminal Air Conditioner (PTAC) with electric resistance heat, you’re probably asking yourself one big question:
👉 “Is 17,400 BTUs enough for my space?”
Sizing is the most critical factor when it comes to air conditioning (and heating) performance. Get it wrong, and you’ll either:
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Undersize the unit and end up with poor cooling/heating, constant strain, and high energy bills.
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Oversize the unit and face short cycling, humidity issues, and wasted money.
In this Savvy guide, I’ll break down:
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What BTUs really mean for cooling and heating
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How to calculate your room size vs. BTU needs
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Special factors (climate, insulation, ceiling height, occupancy)
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Why vertical PTACs are different from wall-mounted PTACs
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Whether 17,400 BTUs is a sweet spot for your project
By the end, you’ll know if this system is a perfect match for your apartment, multi-family unit, or small commercial space.
📏 What Does 17,400 BTUs Mean in HVAC Terms?
BTU stands for British Thermal Unit — a measure of how much heat energy an AC can remove (cooling) or add (heating) in one hour.
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Cooling BTUs = the unit’s ability to absorb heat from indoor air and reject it outside.
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Heating BTUs (in electric resistance systems) = how much heat the system can generate using electric coils.
💡 1 ton of AC capacity = 12,000 BTUs/hour.
So, a 17,400 BTU system = roughly 1.5 tons of cooling power.
That means it’s larger than your typical 9,000–12,000 BTU PTAC (common in hotels and small apartments), but smaller than a 24,000 BTU (2-ton) system designed for bigger floorplans.
🏠 How Many Square Feet Can 17,400 BTUs Cover?
As a rule of thumb:
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20 BTUs per square foot is the general baseline for cooling capacity in residential spaces .
Using that:
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17,400 ÷ 20 = ~870 sq. ft.
👉 In ideal conditions, this unit could cover 800–900 sq. ft. comfortably.
But reality isn’t that simple. Several factors push that number up or down. Let’s break them down.
🌎 Factor 1: Climate Zone
Where you live dramatically impacts cooling needs:
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Hot & Humid (Texas, Florida, Southeast): You may need 25–30 BTUs per sq. ft. because the unit works harder to remove moisture.
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Mild (Pacific Northwest, Northern California): You may need closer to 18 BTUs per sq. ft.
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Cold Winters (Midwest, Northeast): Heating demand often outweighs cooling. With electric resistance heat, expect higher electricity costs.
📌 Example:
An 850 sq. ft. apartment in Houston, TX might require closer to 21,000–22,000 BTUs, while the same size in Portland, OR could be fine with 17,400 BTUs.
👉 Savvy takeaway: Always check your ASHRAE climate zone before locking in capacity .
🧱 Factor 2: Insulation & Building Materials
How your building is constructed is just as important as size.
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Well-insulated buildings (newer apartments, energy-efficient retrofits): Hold cool air longer → need fewer BTUs.
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Poor insulation / older brick / drafty windows: Leak cool air → need more BTUs.
💡 Energy Star reports that poor insulation can increase cooling loads by 20–30% .
👉 If your space is poorly insulated, 17,400 BTUs might feel like 14,000 in practice.
📐 Factor 3: Ceiling Height
Standard calculations assume 8 ft. ceilings. If yours are higher, you’ve got more cubic footage to condition.
Formula:
📌 Example:
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850 sq. ft. apartment, 10 ft. ceilings:
20 BTU × 850 × (10 ÷ 8) = 21,250 BTUs
👉 In this case, 17,400 BTUs may not cut it unless your insulation is excellent.
👥 Factor 4: Occupancy & Heat-Producing Appliances
People generate heat — and so do your appliances.
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Add 600 BTUs per additional person beyond 2
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Kitchens add ~4,000 BTUs (oven + stove + refrigerator)
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Home offices with multiple computers/equipment can add ~1,500 BTUs
👉 If you’re cooling a studio with one person, 17,400 BTUs is plenty.
👉 If it’s a 2-bedroom with 3–4 people and a kitchen, you may need more.
🪟 Factor 5: Sunlight & Exposure
South- and west-facing rooms absorb more solar heat.
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Add 10% BTUs for sunny rooms
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Subtract 10% for shaded/north-facing spaces
So, that 870 sq. ft. estimate might need to be bumped up to ~950 sq. ft. equivalent load in a sunny apartment.
🧾 Putting It Together: A Real-World BTU Calculation
Let’s run through an example:
1-Bedroom Apartment
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Size: 800 sq. ft.
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Location: Atlanta, GA (humid climate)
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Ceiling height: 9 ft.
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Occupants: 2 adults + 1 child
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Appliances: Kitchen included
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Sunlight: Mostly south-facing windows
Calculation:
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Base load: 20 BTUs × 800 = 16,000
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Climate factor (+15%): +2,400
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Ceiling factor (9/8 = +12%): +1,920
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Occupancy (extra 1 person): +600
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Kitchen: +4,000
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Sunlight (10%): +2,400
Total: ~27,300 BTUs needed.
👉 Verdict: 17,400 BTUs would be undersized for this specific setup.
But in a similar 800 sq. ft. unit in Seattle with no extra people or kitchen load, the same 17,400 BTU unit would be perfectly sized.
🧩 Why Vertical PTACs Are Different from Standard PTACs
Now, let’s address the vertical PTAC (VPAC) difference.
Unlike standard PTACs that mount through an exterior wall, vertical PTACs are installed in a closet with duct connections, distributing conditioned air to multiple rooms.
Benefits of vertical PTACs:
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Serve larger areas than single-room PTACs
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Quieter, since the unit is tucked away in a closet
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Better for apartments, hotels, or multi-room layouts
👉 This means a 17,400 BTU vertical PTAC can stretch further than a wall PTAC, because it distributes air more efficiently across spaces.
🔌 Heating Considerations: Electric Resistance vs. Heat Pump
This GE Zoneline model uses electric resistance heat, not a heat pump.
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Pros: Simple, reliable, consistent heat output
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Cons: Less efficient than heat pumps → higher electricity bills in winter
📌 According to the U.S. Department of Energy, electric resistance heating can cost 2–3 times more to operate than heat pumps .
👉 If you’re in a cold northern climate, 17,400 BTUs of electric resistance may not be enough for heating needs. But in mild winters, it’s sufficient.
💡 When Is 17,400 BTUs the Right Choice?
This system is a great fit if:
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Your space is 700–900 sq. ft. with average ceilings
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You live in a mild to warm climate (not extreme humidity/heat)
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You want multi-room comfort from a vertical PTAC setup
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You value quiet operation (closet-mounted)
It may not be enough if:
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You’re cooling over 900 sq. ft. in a hot climate
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Ceilings are higher than 9 ft.
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You have high occupant load or lots of appliances
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Winters are cold and you rely heavily on electric resistance heating
📊 Quick Reference Sizing Table (Savvy’s Cheat Sheet)
Space Size | Avg. Climate | Hot/Humid Climate | Notes |
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600–700 sq. ft. | ✅ Perfect fit | ✅ Still works | Ideal efficiency zone |
800–900 sq. ft. | ✅ Works well | ⚠️ May struggle | Climate + insulation critical |
900–1,000 sq. ft. | ⚠️ Borderline | ❌ Undersized | Consider 24,000 BTU |
1,000+ sq. ft. | ❌ Too small | ❌ Too small | Upgrade needed |
🔗 External Resources & References
✅ Final Savvy Take
The GE Zoneline 17,400 BTU Vertical PTAC hits a sweet spot for mid-size apartments, condos, and hotel units in moderate climates.
But here’s the real Savvy rule:
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<900 sq. ft. in mild climate? You’re golden.
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Hot/humid climate, tall ceilings, or multiple people? Consider upsizing.
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Need efficient winter heating? Look for a PTAC with heat pump backup.
Sizing isn’t about the sticker number — it’s about matching your unique space with the right cooling and heating power.