Is 17,400 BTUs Enough? Sizing Tips for Vertical PTAC Units

If you’re considering a GE Zoneline 17,400 BTU Vertical Packaged Terminal Air Conditioner (PTAC) with electric resistance heat, you’re probably asking yourself one big question:

👉 “Is 17,400 BTUs enough for my space?”

Sizing is the most critical factor when it comes to air conditioning (and heating) performance. Get it wrong, and you’ll either:

  • Undersize the unit and end up with poor cooling/heating, constant strain, and high energy bills.

  • Oversize the unit and face short cycling, humidity issues, and wasted money.

In this Savvy guide, I’ll break down:

  • What BTUs really mean for cooling and heating

  • How to calculate your room size vs. BTU needs

  • Special factors (climate, insulation, ceiling height, occupancy)

  • Why vertical PTACs are different from wall-mounted PTACs

  • Whether 17,400 BTUs is a sweet spot for your project

By the end, you’ll know if this system is a perfect match for your apartment, multi-family unit, or small commercial space.


📏 What Does 17,400 BTUs Mean in HVAC Terms?

BTU stands for British Thermal Unit — a measure of how much heat energy an AC can remove (cooling) or add (heating) in one hour.

  • Cooling BTUs = the unit’s ability to absorb heat from indoor air and reject it outside.

  • Heating BTUs (in electric resistance systems) = how much heat the system can generate using electric coils.

💡 1 ton of AC capacity = 12,000 BTUs/hour.
So, a 17,400 BTU system = roughly 1.5 tons of cooling power.

That means it’s larger than your typical 9,000–12,000 BTU PTAC (common in hotels and small apartments), but smaller than a 24,000 BTU (2-ton) system designed for bigger floorplans.


🏠 How Many Square Feet Can 17,400 BTUs Cover?

As a rule of thumb:

  • 20 BTUs per square foot is the general baseline for cooling capacity in residential spaces .

Using that:

  • 17,400 ÷ 20 = ~870 sq. ft.

👉 In ideal conditions, this unit could cover 800–900 sq. ft. comfortably.

But reality isn’t that simple. Several factors push that number up or down. Let’s break them down.


🌎 Factor 1: Climate Zone

Where you live dramatically impacts cooling needs:

  • Hot & Humid (Texas, Florida, Southeast): You may need 25–30 BTUs per sq. ft. because the unit works harder to remove moisture.

  • Mild (Pacific Northwest, Northern California): You may need closer to 18 BTUs per sq. ft.

  • Cold Winters (Midwest, Northeast): Heating demand often outweighs cooling. With electric resistance heat, expect higher electricity costs.

📌 Example:
An 850 sq. ft. apartment in Houston, TX might require closer to 21,000–22,000 BTUs, while the same size in Portland, OR could be fine with 17,400 BTUs.

👉 Savvy takeaway: Always check your ASHRAE climate zone before locking in capacity .


🧱 Factor 2: Insulation & Building Materials

How your building is constructed is just as important as size.

  • Well-insulated buildings (newer apartments, energy-efficient retrofits): Hold cool air longer → need fewer BTUs.

  • Poor insulation / older brick / drafty windows: Leak cool air → need more BTUs.

💡 Energy Star reports that poor insulation can increase cooling loads by 20–30% .

👉 If your space is poorly insulated, 17,400 BTUs might feel like 14,000 in practice.


📐 Factor 3: Ceiling Height

Standard calculations assume 8 ft. ceilings. If yours are higher, you’ve got more cubic footage to condition.

Formula:

BTU per sq. ft. × (Ceiling height ÷ 8 ft.)

📌 Example:

  • 850 sq. ft. apartment, 10 ft. ceilings:
    20 BTU × 850 × (10 ÷ 8) = 21,250 BTUs

👉 In this case, 17,400 BTUs may not cut it unless your insulation is excellent.


👥 Factor 4: Occupancy & Heat-Producing Appliances

People generate heat — and so do your appliances.

  • Add 600 BTUs per additional person beyond 2

  • Kitchens add ~4,000 BTUs (oven + stove + refrigerator)

  • Home offices with multiple computers/equipment can add ~1,500 BTUs

👉 If you’re cooling a studio with one person, 17,400 BTUs is plenty.
👉 If it’s a 2-bedroom with 3–4 people and a kitchen, you may need more.


🪟 Factor 5: Sunlight & Exposure

South- and west-facing rooms absorb more solar heat.

  • Add 10% BTUs for sunny rooms

  • Subtract 10% for shaded/north-facing spaces

So, that 870 sq. ft. estimate might need to be bumped up to ~950 sq. ft. equivalent load in a sunny apartment.


🧾 Putting It Together: A Real-World BTU Calculation

Let’s run through an example:

1-Bedroom Apartment

  • Size: 800 sq. ft.

  • Location: Atlanta, GA (humid climate)

  • Ceiling height: 9 ft.

  • Occupants: 2 adults + 1 child

  • Appliances: Kitchen included

  • Sunlight: Mostly south-facing windows

Calculation:

  • Base load: 20 BTUs × 800 = 16,000

  • Climate factor (+15%): +2,400

  • Ceiling factor (9/8 = +12%): +1,920

  • Occupancy (extra 1 person): +600

  • Kitchen: +4,000

  • Sunlight (10%): +2,400

Total: ~27,300 BTUs needed.

👉 Verdict: 17,400 BTUs would be undersized for this specific setup.

But in a similar 800 sq. ft. unit in Seattle with no extra people or kitchen load, the same 17,400 BTU unit would be perfectly sized.


🧩 Why Vertical PTACs Are Different from Standard PTACs

Now, let’s address the vertical PTAC (VPAC) difference.

Unlike standard PTACs that mount through an exterior wall, vertical PTACs are installed in a closet with duct connections, distributing conditioned air to multiple rooms.

Benefits of vertical PTACs:

  • Serve larger areas than single-room PTACs

  • Quieter, since the unit is tucked away in a closet

  • Better for apartments, hotels, or multi-room layouts

👉 This means a 17,400 BTU vertical PTAC can stretch further than a wall PTAC, because it distributes air more efficiently across spaces.


🔌 Heating Considerations: Electric Resistance vs. Heat Pump

This GE Zoneline model uses electric resistance heat, not a heat pump.

  • Pros: Simple, reliable, consistent heat output

  • Cons: Less efficient than heat pumps → higher electricity bills in winter

📌 According to the U.S. Department of Energy, electric resistance heating can cost 2–3 times more to operate than heat pumps .

👉 If you’re in a cold northern climate, 17,400 BTUs of electric resistance may not be enough for heating needs. But in mild winters, it’s sufficient.


💡 When Is 17,400 BTUs the Right Choice?

This system is a great fit if:

  • Your space is 700–900 sq. ft. with average ceilings

  • You live in a mild to warm climate (not extreme humidity/heat)

  • You want multi-room comfort from a vertical PTAC setup

  • You value quiet operation (closet-mounted)

It may not be enough if:

  • You’re cooling over 900 sq. ft. in a hot climate

  • Ceilings are higher than 9 ft.

  • You have high occupant load or lots of appliances

  • Winters are cold and you rely heavily on electric resistance heating


📊 Quick Reference Sizing Table (Savvy’s Cheat Sheet)

Space Size Avg. Climate Hot/Humid Climate Notes
600–700 sq. ft. ✅ Perfect fit ✅ Still works Ideal efficiency zone
800–900 sq. ft. ✅ Works well ⚠️ May struggle Climate + insulation critical
900–1,000 sq. ft. ⚠️ Borderline ❌ Undersized Consider 24,000 BTU
1,000+ sq. ft. ❌ Too small ❌ Too small Upgrade needed

🔗 External Resources & References

  1. U.S. Department of Energy – Room AC Sizing Guide

  2. ASHRAE Climate Zones Map

  3. ENERGY STAR – Home Insulation and Air Sealing

  4. Home Ventilating Institute – Sizing Guidelines

  5. EPA – Energy Efficiency and Sunlight Exposure

  6. U.S. DOE – Electric Resistance Heating Overview


✅ Final Savvy Take

The GE Zoneline 17,400 BTU Vertical PTAC hits a sweet spot for mid-size apartments, condos, and hotel units in moderate climates.

But here’s the real Savvy rule:

  • <900 sq. ft. in mild climate? You’re golden.

  • Hot/humid climate, tall ceilings, or multiple people? Consider upsizing.

  • Need efficient winter heating? Look for a PTAC with heat pump backup.

Sizing isn’t about the sticker number — it’s about matching your unique space with the right cooling and heating power.

The savvy side

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