Installing a Through-the-Wall AC with Heat Pump: Can You DIY or Should You Call a Pro?

Hey there — Samantha here! 👋

So you’ve picked out your Amana Through-the-Wall Air Conditioner with Heat Pump, and you’re wondering if you can install it yourself. I get it — you’re handy, you’ve got tools, and saving a few hundred bucks sounds great.

Here’s the truth: Yes, you can DIY this project if you’re comfortable with basic carpentry, measuring, and sealing — but there are a few non-negotiables (especially with electrical hookups and wall cutting) that might be better left to a professional.

Let’s walk through everything you need to know so you can make the right call — and if you do go DIY, you’ll know how to do it safely, cleanly, and confidently.

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1. DIY vs. Pro Installation — What’s the Difference?

Installing a through-the-wall heat pump means cutting an opening, adding a wall sleeve, wiring a dedicated circuit, and ensuring proper drainage and sealing.

Here’s how the two paths stack up:

💡 Rule of thumb: If you’re comfortable installing a window unit and doing basic electrical work, you can likely DIY this. But if wiring scares you — call a pro for that part only.

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2. Safety First: Electrical Hookup Basics ⚡

This is the step where most DIYers get nervous — and rightly so. Amana’s through-the-wall heat pump models (like the Amana 9,200 BTU 230/208V Through-the-Wall AC with Heat Pump and Remote) run on 230V power, not standard 120V outlets.

That means:

• You’ll need a dedicated 230V circuit with the correct breaker (usually 15–20 amps).

• The outlet should match your unit’s plug type (check NEMA pattern in your manual).

• You cannot use an extension cord — ever.

When to Call a Pro

If you don’t already have a 230V outlet nearby, hire an electrician. Adding one typically costs $200–$400, depending on the distance to your panel.

⚠️ Pro Tip: Check your local electrical codes — in some regions, all 230V hookups must be done by a licensed electrician.

(Reference: Energy.gov Electrical Safety)

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3. Step-by-Step DIY Installation 🧰

If your wall already has a sleeve or you’re replacing an old unit, the process is much easier. But if this is your first install, here’s how to do it right.

Tools You’ll Need

🧱 Level
🪚 Jigsaw or reciprocating saw
🔌 Drill
📏 Tape measure
🧰 Screwdriver
🧴 Weatherproof caulk
🧼 Damp cloth

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Step 1: Choose the Wall Location

Pick a spot that:

• Isn’t on a load-bearing wall.

• Has easy access to an electrical outlet or circuit.

• Allows 2 ft clearance outside for airflow.

• Is above ground level (for drainage).

Avoid placing it behind furniture or curtains.

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Step 2: Cut the Wall Opening

Most Amana sleeves use a 26″ W × 15.5″ H × 16″ D opening. Always check your sleeve’s spec sheet.

1. Mark the opening with a pencil and level.

2. Drill pilot holes at each corner.

3. Use your saw to cut the outline through drywall and sheathing.

4. Frame the cutout with 2×4 lumber for structural support.

🧠 Tip: Use painter’s tape around your cut line to reduce splintering.

(Reference: ASHRAE Wall Unit Installation Guide)

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Step 3: Install the Wall Sleeve

This part’s critical — the sleeve supports the unit and ensures proper drainage.

1. Slide the sleeve into the opening.

2. Tilt it slightly downward (¼ inch) toward the outside wall.

3. Check with a level.

4. Secure to framing with screws through side flanges.

5. Apply exterior caulk around edges to prevent leaks.

💧 Pro Tip: The sleeve’s rear grille should sit flush with or slightly beyond the outer wall for maximum airflow.

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Step 4: Insulate & Seal

A well-sealed installation prevents drafts, insects, and wasted energy.

• Apply foam insulation around the sleeve interior.

• Use silicone caulk on the exterior seams.

• Add trim kits or flanges for a clean indoor finish.

You can also use acoustic sealant if noise reduction is a priority.

(According to Energy Star, proper sealing can improve unit efficiency by 5–10%.)

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Step 5: Slide in the Unit

With the sleeve secure, it’s time for the star of the show.

1. Remove the front grille from your Amana unit.

2. Carefully slide the chassis into the sleeve, aligning it with the guide rails.

3. Tighten retaining screws.

4. Replace the grille and connect the plug.

5. Turn on power and test all modes (Cool, Heat, Fan).

✅ Note: Let the compressor settle for 5 minutes after plugging in before switching modes.

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4. Drainage, Insulation & Finishing Trim

Even a perfect cut means nothing if your drainage isn’t right.

💧 Drainage

• Sleeve must slope ¼ inch toward exterior.

• Make sure the drain hole at the bottom isn’t blocked.

• Don’t over-seal the bottom edge — moisture needs to escape.

• If you hear “sloshing” during operation, check that the unit isn’t overfilled with condensate.

🧱 Insulation

• Fill any small wall gaps around the sleeve with non-expanding foam (expanding foam can distort the sleeve).

• Inside trim should overlap slightly for a neat finish.

🎨 Finishing Touches

• Add a decorative frame or interior flange kit (available for most Amana models).

• Paint the trim to match your wall — it hides seams and looks professional.

(Drainage and insulation standards per ASHRAE 90.1 Installation Recommendations)

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5. Cost Comparison: DIY vs. Professional Install 💵

If your wall already has a sleeve and circuit in place, you can easily finish this job in an afternoon. But if you’re cutting new openings or wiring 230V power, professional help is money well spent.

🧾 Tip: Some local utility programs even offer rebates when a certified HVAC tech installs your Energy Star–rated Amana unit. Check your region’s incentives.

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6. When to Definitely Call a Pro ☎️

DIY confidence is great — but here’s when it’s time to pick up the phone:

• You’re unsure about electrical wiring or breaker sizing.

• The wall is brick, concrete, or load-bearing.

• You need multiple units installed in different rooms.

• You’re in an apartment or condo where modifications need approval.

• The old unit shows burn marks, corrosion, or refrigerant leaks.

A pro can ensure compliance with local building codes, prevent water damage, and fine-tune airflow for quieter operation.

(Guidance from HomeAdvisor HVAC Installation Cost Report)

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7. Samantha’s Real-Life Install

When I replaced my old wall unit with a new Amana 9,200 BTU heat pump, I decided to DIY everything except the electrical hookup. I:

• Cut the drywall, framed the sleeve opening, and caulked all gaps.

• Hired an electrician to install a 230V outlet ($275).

• Finished the trim and paint myself.

The whole project took one weekend and cost under $1,100 total. And the best part? I know every inch of that wall is sealed tight — no drafts, no rattles, no leaks.

That’s what I call a satisfying DIY win. 🙌

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8. Final Verdict: DIY or Pro?

Bottom line:

• If you’re replacing an existing wall unit and are comfortable cutting and sealing — go DIY!

• If you need a new electrical circuit, heavy wall cutting, or concrete installation — call a pro.

Either way, you’ll end up with a quiet, efficient, year-round comfort system that’s built to last.

In the next blog, we’ll dive deeper into how heat pumps work in winter — uncovering the science behind their cold-weather performance and why they’re one of the smartest home comfort investments for 2025.