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Installation Realities for a 5-Ton Goodman R-32 AC: Pad Size, Ductwork, Electrical – Tony’s Field Notes

Introduction

Let’s get something straight — installing a 5-ton air conditioner isn’t like swapping a car battery.
This is heavy-duty comfort equipment designed for large homes, and when you’re dealing with 5 tons of cooling capacity, every detail matters: pad size, ductwork, electrical load, airflow, drainage — all of it.

I’ve spent 20 years installing systems in every type of home — from new builds to 1960s ranchers with crawlspaces full of spider webs and questionable wiring.
And if there’s one thing I’ve learned, it’s this: you can buy the best unit on the market, but if the installation’s sloppy, you’ve just bought an expensive headache.

The Goodman 5-Ton 14.4 SEER2 R-32 Air Conditioner Condenser (Model GLXS4BA6010) is a beast — strong, efficient, and future-proof. But it only performs like one when installed right.

In this post, I’ll walk you through the real-world realities of installing a large-capacity R-32 system:
✅ Proper pad sizing and mounting
✅ Ductwork upgrades for airflow
✅ Electrical and breaker requirements
✅ Condensate and line set management
✅ What homeowners and DIYers often overlook

This isn’t brochure talk — it’s what I see, fix, and re-do on real job sites every week.

1. The Foundation: Pad Size & Placement

Let’s start from the ground up — literally.

A 5-ton Goodman R-32 condenser weighs close to 230–260 lbs when charged and ready to go. That’s not something you want sitting on a cracked patio or soft soil.

Pad Dimensions

For a condenser that size, you need a minimum 40" × 40" pad, though I usually go up to 42" × 42" for better service clearance.
The pad should be at least 3 inches thick, reinforced, and leveled to within ¼ inch across.

Placement Tips

Keep at least 18 inches of clearance on all sides, 60 inches above.
Avoid placing it under roof driplines or gutters — condensers hate constant water exposure.
Use composite pads (like DiversiTech or E-Lite). They’re UV-resistant and won’t crack like concrete.
If you live in a frost zone, add a gravel base for drainage and frost heave protection.

A level pad isn’t just about looks. If your condenser tilts, oil flow inside the compressor gets disrupted — shortening its life.

(Energy.gov – Outdoor Unit Clearance Guidelines )

2. Ductwork — The Hidden Performance Killer

The most expensive installation mistakes usually aren’t visible — they’re hidden in the attic or crawlspace.
And ductwork is the biggest culprit.

A 5-ton unit moves about 2,000 CFM (cubic feet per minute) of air. If your duct system can’t handle that, you’re choking a racehorse.

Proper Duct Sizing

Use these benchmarks:

Main Supply Trunk: 18–20 inches round or equivalent rectangular (20"×8" minimum)
Main Return Duct: 16–18 inches round
Branch Runs: 6–8 inches to individual rooms.
Filter Grille: Minimum 20"×25" (or two 16"×25" grilles for balanced return)

I can’t count how many “new” installs I’ve seen where a 5-ton system was hooked up to old 12-inch returns. The system screamed like a jet engine — static pressure off the charts, airflow at 60%, efficiency gone.

Fix It Before It Starts

Perform a Manual D duct design to match airflow per room.
Use mastic sealant, not duct tape — tape dries out and leaks within a year.
Insulate attic ducts to R-6 or better.
Add balancing dampers for two-story homes to even out pressure.

(EnergyStar – Duct Design and Air Balancing )

3. Electrical Requirements — Don’t Wing It

A 5-ton condenser like the Goodman GLXS4BA6010 isn’t a light draw. It’s a serious load on your service panel, and undersized wiring is a safety risk.

Breaker and Wire Sizing

Typical electrical specs for this unit:

Voltage: 208/230V single-phase
Minimum Circuit Ampacity (MCA): ~34–38 amps
Maximum Fuse/Breaker: 45 amps
Recommended Wire: #8 AWG copper

Always verify on the condenser’s nameplate — it’s the law, not a suggestion.
And make sure your disconnect box is within sight (3–6 ft), weatherproof, and rated for the load.

If your home’s main panel is only 100 amps, upgrading to 150 or 200 amps may be necessary. I’ve seen too many lights dim every time the compressor kicks on — a dead giveaway that the electrical system is maxed.

(NFPA – National Electrical Code 2023 )

4. Line Sets and Refrigerant Management

R-32 systems require pressure-rated line sets designed for higher working pressures (up to 550 psi).
You can’t just reuse the old R-410A lines without inspection and cleaning.

Line Set Sizing for 5-Ton Units

Liquid Line: 3/8"
Suction Line: 7/8"
Maximum Length: 50 ft (longer runs require factory charge adjustment)

If the old lines are clean, rated, and properly insulated, you can reuse them — but most of the time, I replace them to avoid hidden contamination or oil residue.
Always pressure test with nitrogen at 400 psi before pulling a vacuum.

A clean, dry line set is non-negotiable — one drop of moisture can turn into acid inside the system.

(AHRI – Refrigerant Piping Guidelines )

5. Condensate Drainage — The Silent System Saver

The condenser itself doesn’t drain much condensate — that’s handled by the indoor coil — but any horizontal installation with a packaged system or attic air handler must have a proper drain setup.

Tony’s Rules for Drains

Maintain a ¼ inch per foot downward slope.
Use PVC, not vinyl tubing.
Add a P-trap and a clean-out port.
Always install a float switch in the primary drain pan — it shuts off the system if the line clogs.

Water damage from a $1 fitting failure can cost more than the entire system.

(Energy.gov – Condensate Management Guide )

6. Airflow Verification — Don’t Guess, Measure

After installation, airflow needs to be tested — not estimated.
You’re looking for roughly 400 CFM per ton, so 5 tons = 2,000 CFM total.

How I Verify It

Use a digital manometer to measure static pressure at the supply and return plenums.
- Target: 0.4–0.6 in. wc total.
Check the temperature split across the coil.
- Should be between 18–22°F.
Inspect return paths.
- Undersized returns will cause whistling, rattling, and high amps.

If airflow isn’t right, everything else suffers — efficiency drops, humidity climbs, and your compressor runs hot.

(Energy Star – Airflow Testing Guide )

7. R-32-Specific Installation Considerations

Here’s where most “old-school” installers mess up. R-32 behaves differently from R-410A — not wildly different, but enough to matter.

Charge Weight

R-32 systems use 20–30% less refrigerant by weight.
If the manufacturer’s spec says 124 oz, don’t round up — you’ll flood the coil.

Brazing and Fittings

Always purge nitrogen during brazing to prevent carbon buildup inside the lines.
Use rated A2L-compatible hoses and manifolds (most modern ones already are).

Leak Testing

R-32 leaks more slowly but at slightly higher pressures.
Use a digital detector rated for A2L refrigerants.
Pressure test with nitrogen, not compressed air (air + R-32 = bad combo).

Ventilation During Charging

If charging indoors, keep the area ventilated — not because it’s dangerous, but because it’s required by code.

(ASHRAE – A2L Installation Safety Practices )

8. Noise and Vibration Control

A 5-ton unit moves a lot of air and refrigerant — and that means vibration.
If you don’t isolate it properly, the hum can carry straight through walls.

Tony’s Tips for a Quiet Install

Use rubber isolation pads under each corner.
Add a flexible conduit for electrical and refrigerant lines.
Keep line sets away from wall studs — secure them with hangers every 6 feet.
If mounting near a bedroom window, install a sound barrier panel or vegetation buffer (minimum 2 ft clearance).

Most of the time, “noisy unit” complaints come down to poor isolation, not bad equipment.

9. Air Handler or Coil Compatibility

For a 5-ton R-32 condenser, make sure your indoor coil or air handler is specifically rated for R-32 and SEER2 systems.
Mismatching components will throw off pressures, cause expansion valve issues, and kill your efficiency.

What to Match

Coil metering device (TXV) rated for R-32
Proper airflow CFM rating (≥ 2,000)
Control board compatibility (24V communication if using smart thermostats)

Goodman makes paired R-32 indoor coils that are plug-and-play for this exact condenser model — that’s the combo I recommend every time.

10. Permits and Code Compliance

Big mistake I see all the time — contractors skipping permits to save time.
Don’t fall for it.

Local building departments require a mechanical permit for new AC installations. Some also require electrical and refrigerant handling permits if R-32 or A2L gases are involved.

Permits protect you:

Guarantee inspection by certified officials
Validate warranty compliance
Prevent insurance claim denials in case of damage.

Always ask your installer for copies of all permits and the final inspection report.

11. What Homeowners Can Expect on Installation Day

Here’s what a proper 5-ton Goodman R-32 install looks like, step by step:

Site Prep: Level pad, clear debris, verify electrical disconnect.
Line Set & Duct Prep: Inspect or replace old copper lines and duct runs.
Mounting: Set condenser, anchor bolts, vibration pads.
Electrical Wiring: Pull a new line from the panel to disconnect, and wire the thermostat.
Pressure Testing: Nitrogen at 400 psi for 20 minutes.
Vacuum & Charging: Pull vacuum to 500 microns, weigh in refrigerant per spec.
Startup: Verify airflow, temperature split, and amperage.
System Walkthrough: Explain maintenance, filter schedules, and warranty registration.

A legit crew can do all this in 6–8 hours if everything’s prepped.
Anyone quoting “same-day install” in 3 hours flat? That’s a red flag.

12. Real Jobsite Story — When Skipping the Details Costs Big

A homeowner once called me to “look at a noise issue.”
Turns out their new 5-ton unit was shaking the entire deck it sat on.

The installer had:

Used a 30"×30" pad (too small)
Omitted isolation pads
Wired the compressor on a 30-amp breaker (should’ve been 40)
Duct return undersized by 25%

Result? The system overheated, tripped breakers daily, and killed the capacitor in 3 months.
We reinstalled everything properly. Noise dropped 60%, the breaker stopped tripping, and the unit now runs smoothly as silk.

Moral of the story: you don’t pay extra for “good installers” — you pay less later in repairs.

13. Maintenance Tips Post-Install

A great install sets the stage — but smart upkeep keeps it running.
Here’s my checklist for every homeowner after installing a 5-ton Goodman system:

Change filters every 60–90 days (MERV 8–11 preferred).
Keep the outdoor coil clean — rinse with low-pressure water twice a year.
Schedule a spring tune-up for a coil and refrigerant check.
Make sure the pad stays level as the ground settles.
Check thermostat programming — set at least 3-minute compressor delay between cycles.

14. What Differentiates a Pro Installer from a Shortcut Crew

There’s a big difference between an installer and a craftsman.
A pro follows codes, checks airflow, documents performance, and takes pride in a quiet, level system.
A shortcut crew rushes, reuses, and disappears when something fails.

When you’re shopping for installation, look for:

Proper licensing and insurance
References from local homeowners
NATE-certified technicians
Load calculations before quoting
Warranty registration handled by the dealer

That’s how you protect your investment and ensure the Goodman name performs like it should.

15. Tony’s Final Word — “Install It Like You Own It”

That’s been my motto for two decades.
When you install a system like you’re going to live with it, you do it right — level pad, tight seals, clean wiring, verified pressures.

The Goodman 5-Ton 14.4 SEER2 R-32 condenser is built tough, but it deserves a proper setup to show off its potential.
If you invest in this kind of cooling power, don’t cut corners on the install.

Because at the end of the day, efficiency is built on craftsmanship, not just equipment.

Tony will provide us with the breakdown of the energy bills in the following blog.

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