Installation Guide: What Tony Learned Installing His Goodman Electric Furnace

👋 Introduction: A Furnace Installer Becomes His Own Customer

Hey folks, Tony here.

After 30 years in the HVAC business, I’ve installed just about every type of system you can imagine — gas furnaces, oil burners, heat pumps, even old-school hydronic boilers. But this past winter, I did something a little different: I became my own customer.

My trusty gas furnace was aging out, and with natural gas prices creeping up and my solar panels producing solid output, it was time for a change. I decided to install a 20 kW Goodman Electric Furnace (Model MBVK20DP1X00) in my own home — the same kind I’ve recommended to dozens of homeowners.

And let me tell you: even as a pro, I learned a few new tricks (and made a couple of adjustments I wish I’d done sooner).

So whether you’re a handy DIYer, an aspiring installer, or just curious what goes into setting up one of these systems, this guide walks through every step — wiring, airflow, testing — and what I learned along the way.

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🧱 1. Why I Switched to Electric

Before we get our hands dirty, let’s talk about why I made the switch.

Electric furnaces don’t get the same buzz as fancy heat pumps, but they’re dependable, safe, and incredibly simple to install.

Here’s what sealed the deal for me:

• ✅ No combustion. No gas lines, no pilot lights, no exhaust vents — just clean electric heat.

• ✅ Easier installation. I already had 240V service in my panel; no gas piping or venting required.

• ✅ Compatibility with solar. My solar array offsets much of my winter electric use.

• ✅ Low maintenance. No burners to tune, no heat exchangers to crack.

And the Goodman MBVK20DP1X00 offered everything I needed — a 20 kW (≈68,240 BTU) output, 2,000 CFM blower capacity, and a rock-solid design backed by a name I’ve trusted for years.

(Reference: Energy.gov – Furnaces and Boilers Overview)

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🧰 2. Tools & Materials I Used

Before starting, I laid out every tool and material I’d need — because nothing kills momentum like stopping mid-install for a missing part.

🧰 Tools:

• Screwdrivers (flathead and Phillips)

• Sheet metal snips

• Wire strippers and crimpers

• Multimeter (for voltage checks)

• Manometer and thermometer (for airflow and temp rise tests)

• Cordless drill

• Foil tape and mastic

⚡ Electrical Supplies:

• 8 AWG copper wire (for 240V connection)

• 60-amp and 100-amp double-pole breakers

• 240V fused disconnect switch

• Grounding wire and lugs

🔧 HVAC Supplies:

• Plenum transition fittings

• 1” MERV 8 air filter

• Vibration pads

• Sealant for joints

Pro tip: Before you order your furnace, check your electrical panel capacity. A 20 kW unit needs about 100 amps of available service at 240 volts.

(Reference: Electrical Safety Foundation – Residential Wiring Guide)

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🏗️ 3. Step 1: Prepping the Installation Area

The Goodman MBVK series is pretty compact — 21 inches wide, about 50 inches tall — so it fits most closets, garages, or utility rooms.

Here’s how I prepped the space:

1. Turned off the main breaker. Safety first.

2. Removed the old gas furnace and capped the gas line.

3. Sealed the old flue opening with sheet metal since I wouldn’t need venting.

4. Checked the base and leveling. A level platform ensures the blower and heating elements stay aligned.

Because my return duct came from below, I configured it as an upflow setup, which Goodman supports right out of the box.

(Reference: Goodman Installation Manual – MBVK Series)

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⚡ 4. Step 2: Electrical Connections (Respect the Power!)

Here’s where things get serious — 20 kW means real power.

A 20 kW furnace draws around 83 amps at 240 volts, so you’ll usually need two separate circuits:

• One 60-amp for the blower and one heating bank

• One 100-amp for the secondary heating bank

My wiring process:

1. Ran 8 AWG wire from the breaker panel to a fused disconnect within 3 feet of the furnace.

2. Connected each circuit to the designated terminal blocks per the wiring diagram.

3. Checked all connections twice, ensuring tight, corrosion-free terminations.

4. Verified 240V between L1 and L2 with my multimeter.

⚠️ Tony’s Safety Note:
If you’re unsure about electrical work, stop here and bring in a licensed electrician. A single loose connection at these voltages can cause overheating or fire.

(Reference: National Electrical Code (NEC))

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🌬️ 5. Step 3: Ductwork & Airflow Setup

If electricity is the heart of your furnace, airflow is its lungs.

Goodman’s MBVK20DP1X00 is rated for 2,000 CFM, which is perfect for homes around 2,000–2,400 sq ft. But that airflow has to move freely.

My Setup Checklist

✅ Aligned the supply plenum with minimal bends.
✅ Sealed all seams using foil tape and mastic (never duct tape).
✅ Checked for adequate return air opening (no less than 24x20").
✅ Verified blower direction matched my upflow configuration.

Then I measured static pressure using a manometer. My total external static came out to 0.48” WC — right under Goodman’s recommended limit of 0.5".

Perfect airflow equals even heating and maximum efficiency.

(Reference: Energy Vanguard – Static Pressure Basics)

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🧊 6. Step 4: Mounting the Blower & Filter

Goodman’s integrated blower assembly is one of my favorite features — it’s compact, quiet, and adjustable.

I installed it directly under the heating section, secured it with the factory screws, and connected it to my plenum transition.

Then I slid in a 1” MERV 8 filter on the return side. This strikes a balance between airflow and filtration.

Tony’s Tip:
Always make your filter slot easy to access. I learned the hard way on older installs that homeowners rarely change filters if it’s a pain to reach — and that kills airflow, energy efficiency, and heating performance.

(Reference: ENERGY STAR – Furnace Maintenance Tips)

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🌡️ 7. Step 5: Thermostat Wiring

For control, I started with a basic two-stage thermostat, then upgraded to a smart model later.

Basic Thermostat Wiring Layout:

Once wired, I tested stage activation:

• Stage 1 draws about 10 kW (~34,000 BTU).

• Stage 2 adds the remaining 10 kW for peak output.

The two-stage setup makes a huge difference — less cycling, smoother comfort, and reduced electrical spikes.

(Reference: EnergyStar – Smart Thermostat Guide)

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🔍 8. Step 6: First Startup & System Testing

Moment of truth.

Before flipping the breaker, I ran my standard pre-start checklist:

• ✅ Verified tight electrical terminals.

• ✅ Confirmed grounding continuity.

• ✅ Checked ducts and filter for obstructions.

• ✅ Ensured both circuit breakers were sized correctly.

Once I powered up the system, the blower started with a low hum. The first heating stage energized smoothly, followed by the second.

I measured temperature rise between the return and supply ducts — 48°F — right inside Goodman’s ideal range of 45–55°F.

That meant my airflow and heat output were perfectly balanced.

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🧠 9. What I Learned Along the Way

Even after years of installs, working on my own system gave me a few reminders and new insights:

1️⃣ Good prep saves hours.

Laying out wire, breakers, and fittings before you start eliminates the “where’s that tool?” chaos mid-project.

2️⃣ Airflow testing is non-negotiable.

You can’t “eyeball” static pressure. Without proper airflow, electric elements overheat — and you’ll waste money on bills.

3️⃣ Two-stage heat is worth every penny.

It eliminates abrupt temperature swings and keeps comfort steady.

4️⃣ Plan for filter access.

Mine was initially behind a support beam — a quick reposition saved future headaches.

5️⃣ ECM blowers change the game.

The variable-speed motor automatically adjusts airflow, keeping temperature rise perfect no matter the filter or duct load.

These small details make the difference between a system that works — and one that works beautifully.

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🧾 10. Performance Results After Six Months

After half a heating season, I ran a performance review to see how my Goodman electric furnace stacked up:

The best part? My energy use was consistent, predictable, and clean — no gas odors, no vent condensation, no pilot relights.

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🧩 11. Tony’s Pro Tips for Homeowners Installing Electric Furnaces

If you’re planning to install a Goodman electric furnace yourself, here’s what I’d emphasize:

1. Confirm panel capacity. Electric furnaces need 240V with adequate amperage — don’t overload your breakers.

2. Follow manufacturer wiring diagrams. Every model has slight variations.

3. Measure airflow and temperature rise. It’s the best way to confirm safety and performance.

4. Insulate your ducts. Keeps heat where it belongs.

5. Consider adding a smart thermostat. It can shave up to 15% off your electric bills.

6. Schedule annual checkups. Even though it’s electric, routine checks prevent wiring fatigue and blower wear.

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🏁 Conclusion: The Best System I’ve Ever Installed

Installing a furnace for a customer is one thing — but installing it for yourself hits differently.

After six months of steady performance, lower noise, and zero maintenance calls (to myself), I can confidently say the Goodman MBVK20DP1X00 20 kW Electric Furnace is everything I hoped it would be.

It’s powerful, quiet, efficient, and built for the long haul.

Whether you’re upgrading from gas or planning your first electric system, take it from me — do your prep, follow the airflow specs, and you’ll have a furnace that performs flawlessly for decades.

“After years of installing systems for others, I finally got to test one in my own home — and it reminded me why I trust Goodman. Reliable. Simple. Smart.”

In the next topic we will know more about: Maintenance Checklist: How to Keep Your Goodman Electric Furnace Running Like New