Installation 101: How to Mount the Amana 11,600 BTU Through-the-Wall AC Like a Pro
Tony Marino’s Hands-On Guide for Homeowners Who Want a Pro-Level Result
Every summer, I get the same call:
“Tony, my new wall AC is dripping, humming, and barely cooling!”
Nine times out of ten, the Amana is fine — it’s the install that’s wrong.
Through-the-wall units don’t forgive mistakes. If the sleeve tilts the wrong way or you skip sealing, the system wastes energy and leaks condensate inside. So let’s do it right.
I’ll show you, step by step, how to mount the Amana 11,600 BTU exactly the way I do for paying clients — clean, solid, and ready for fifteen summers of trouble-free comfort.
Why a Proper Install Matters
A wall unit isn’t just a metal box; it’s a mini HVAC system that exhausts heat and humidity outdoors.
If you block that path or leave gaps, you’ll lose up to 30 percent of efficiency, according to the U.S. Department of Energy.
When air leaks around the sleeve, the compressor cycles too often, and the lifespan drops. Tight seals, correct slope, and dedicated power keep the Amana humming quietly instead of gasping for breath.
Step 0 — Plan Before You Cut
Pick the spot carefully.
Indoors, you want the unit near the room’s center, 10–12 inches above the floor, and within reach of a grounded 115 V/15 A outlet.
Outdoors, give the condenser fan at least a foot of clearance from plants or fences; never vent under a deck.
Check the wall thickness — the Amana sleeve handles 7½″ to 16½″.
Avoid studs, pipes, and wiring with a stud finder, and mark your rectangle 26″ wide × 16″ high.
Tony’s Pro Tip
“Drywall patches are cheaper than compressors. Drill pilot holes first and look before you leap.”
Tools You’ll Need
Level • tape measure • stud finder • reciprocating saw • drill with masonry bit • caulk gun + exterior-grade silicone • low-expansion foam • 2 × 4 blocking • screws & driver • safety gear • helper (the chassis weighs ~80 lb).
Rent a masonry saw for brick or block walls — it makes cleaner cuts and keeps you sane.
Build the Opening
Cut the interior drywall along your marks, then the exterior sheathing. Pull out insulation cleanly.
Frame the hole with 2 × 4 lumber on all sides — that frame carries the weight and kills vibration.
“Don’t trust drywall,” I tell every apprentice. “Wood holds, gypsum folds.”
Check fit and square before moving on.
The Wall Sleeve — Your Foundation
The Amana uses a 26-inch galvanized-steel sleeve (model WTB series).
If you’re reusing an old one, inspect for rust and measure depth: 26″ W × 15.6″ H × 16¾″ D.
Old 27-inch GE or Friedrich sleeves can work with trim spacers; confirm on the AHRI Directory.
Attach insulation strips to the perimeter and knock out the bottom drain on the side that slopes outdoors. Run a thin bead of silicone along the rear flange.
Slide and Level
Insert the sleeve from indoors until the front edge is flush with the interior drywall.
Use a level — you want a ¼″ tilt downward to the outside so condensate drains naturally.
Screw side flanges into your 2 × 4 frame.
Seal the exterior flange with silicone; inside, fill any gaps with low-expansion foam.
High-pressure foam can bow the metal, so resist the urge to overspray.
Electrical Check
The PBC122J00AA draws 9.5 amps at 115 V.
It needs a dedicated 15-amp circuit. Never share with a microwave or fridge.
The plug includes an LCDI safety device — press “Test” then “Reset.”
If your outlet feels loose or warm, replace it before plugging in.
The Energy Star installation guide backs this up: one circuit = longer compressor life.
Drainage Matters
Pop the drain knockout and test the slope before you insert the AC.
Pour half a cup of water into the sleeve; it should flow outward.
If not, shim the frame slightly.
Tony’s Tip:
“Gravity’s free. Use it. A quarter-inch tilt now saves gallons of cleanup later.”
Mount the Amana
Remove the front grille and filter.
With a helper, lift and slide the chassis into the sleeve rails until the gasket compresses evenly.
Tighten the mounting screws provided.
Don’t force it — bent fins restrict airflow.
Reconnect the grille and filter; leave the power off for now.
Seal Everything
Outside: apply a smooth bead of silicone around the sleeve-to-wall joint.
Inside: Use a foam weatherstrip between the chassis and sleeve to stop buzz.
For windy or coastal areas, install a small drip edge above the grille to deflect rain.
Amana illustrates this accessory on its official PTAC site.
Power Up and Test
Turn the breaker on. Set the unit to Fan Only first; listen for a smooth hum.
Switch to Cool at 70 °F. After 5 minutes, you should feel the air 15–20 °F colder than room temp.
Warm airflow = mis-seal or low voltage.
Buzzing = loose mount. Fix before long runs.
Post-Install Checklist
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Exterior silicone sealed
-
Sleeve tilted outward ¼″
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Dedicated circuit confirmed
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Drain flowing freely
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Filter seated, grille tight
-
Remote paired and responsive
Once all boxes are ticked, you’re done cutting and cursing — time to enjoy cold air.
Retrofitting an Old Sleeve
If you’re replacing a unit:
Vacuum the cavity, sand rust, repaint bare metal, and clear drain holes.
Check that depth matches Amana’s 16¾″ spec.
If shorter, use the trim kit; if deeper, add insulation spacers.
Many 230 V sleeves look identical but aren’t. Double-check the label — this model is strictly 115 V. Call an electrician if wires don’t match color codes.
Fine-Tuning Airflow
Aim the louvers upward for large rooms, straight out for small spaces.
Keep curtains or shelves a foot away.
Use “Auto Fan” mode so speed scales with temperature — the most efficient setting per Energy Star’s operation tips.
A ceiling fan on low helps distribute cool air and lets you raise the thermostat a couple of degrees without losing comfort.
Troubleshooting Day One
Rattle: Loosen sleeve screws slightly and insert felt pads.
Water inside: Increase the slope or clear the drain.
Breaker trip: Confirm outlet amperage.
Weak cooling: Clean filter, ensure coil is not iced.
Maintenance for the Long Haul
| Season | Task | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Spring | Wash filter monthly | Maintains airflow |
| Summer | Vacuum indoor coil | Prevents icing |
| Fall | Inspect sealant | Stops drafts |
| Winter | Cover exterior grille | Blocks snow and debris |
When to Call a Pro
If you hear compressor clatter, smell ozone, or notice circuit flicker, stop immediately.
HVAC pros have gauges to verify refrigerant pressure and amperage draw — things you can’t eyeball.
One quick service call beats a new compressor every time.
Tony’s Story from the Field
A Chicago client once replaced a 10 K BTU window unit with this Amana. We spent an afternoon aligning the sleeve, checking the slope, and sealing every joint. A year later, she emailed: “Still runs whisper-quiet at 72 °F on 95-degree days.”
That’s the payoff of patience.
“Measure twice, seal once, and your AC will outlive your sofa.”
Boost Your Efficiency
Add insulated curtains on west-facing windows, weather-strip doors, and use a smart plug to schedule cooling 30 minutes before you get home.
Little steps like these stretch your 11,600 BTUs farther and can shave 15 % off utility bills.
Tony’s Final Word
Installing a through-the-wall unit isn’t rocket science.
It’s craftsmanship — a mix of precision, patience, and pride.
The Amana 11,600 BTU is built to last, but only if you give it a solid home inside that wall.
Take your time with the sleeve, respect the tilt, and seal like you’re keeping out the Atlantic.
Do that, and this system will run quietly, dry, and cool for more than a decade.
“Good installs don’t squeak, rattle, or leak.
They just work — and keep working.”
Next Blog, Energy Efficiency will be explained by Tony.
