Heat Pump vs. Electric Heat on a Wall AC — Which One Saves You More Money? (Tony’s Real-World Breakdown)
If you’re looking at something like the Amana 7,400 BTU Through-the-Wall AC With Heat Pump (PBH073J35CC), there’s a good chance you’re asking the same question thousands of homeowners, landlords, and office managers ask every year:
“Should I rely on the heat pump or use electric heat? Which one actually saves money?”
Good question.
Because the difference isn’t small.
It’s not even “noticeable.”
We’re talking dramatic operating cost differences — sometimes triple, sometimes worse — depending on the outside temperature, the room size, and the efficiency of your building.
I’ve been in the HVAC world long enough to see heat pumps go from “barely acceptable” to “absolute heroes” in the right temperatures. And I’ve also watched cheap electric heat elements burn through people’s wallets like a flamethrower.
So today, Tony is giving you the full, no-nonsense breakdown:
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What’s the difference between heat pump heat and electric heat?
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When is each one better?
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When does electric heat become a necessary evil?
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And how much can you actually save using a heat pump?
Time to get blunt, practical, and honest — Tony style.
Let’s jump in.
First: The ONLY Thing You Need to Remember About Heat Pumps
Here’s the core truth:
A heat pump moves heat.
Electric heat creates heat.
Moving heat is cheap.
Creating heat with electricity is expensive.
A heat pump can be 3–4 times more efficient than electric resistance heat — meaning:
✔ Lower power consumption
✔ Faster temperature recovery
✔ Lower utility bills
✔ More even heating cycles
Electric heat, on the other hand:
✘ Pulls massive amperage
✘ Uses brute-force heating
✘ Runs up your bill fast
✘ Is better used only when necessary
That’s the whole game.
Here’s a general reference about heat transfer vs resistance heat:
[Heat Pump vs Resistance Heat Operating Principles]
How a Heat Pump Works (Tony’s 30-Second Explanation)
Heat pumps don’t “make” warmth — they move it.
They work like an AC system in reverse:
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The outdoor coil absorbs heat from outside
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The compressor moves that heat indoors
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The indoor coil releases it into the room
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Refrigerant and pressure changes do the heavy lifting
Yes — even when it feels cold outside, there’s still heat available to pull from the air.
It’s basically a magic trick performed by physics.
Electric heat is the opposite:
It uses a metal coil to burn electricity and blow the heat inside. Simple but pricey.
Heat Pump vs Electric Heat: REAL Operating Costs
Now let’s talk money.
Because this is where most people get shocked.
Cost to Run a Heat Pump (Approximate):
$0.10–$0.20 per hour
Cost to Run Electric Heat (Approximate):
$0.40–$1.00+ per hour
That’s not a typo.
Not an exaggeration.
Heat pump heating is often 3–5x cheaper than electric heat.
Here’s a general cost-comparison reference:
[HVAC Heating Cost Per Hour Breakdown]
But — and there’s always a “but” — heat pump efficiency depends heavily on outdoor temps.
When a Heat Pump Is AMAZING (The Sweet Spot Temperatures)
Heat pumps absolutely crush electric heat in:
**Outdoor temperatures between:
40°F and 65°F**
This is the heat pump's prime zone.
Why? Because:
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Outdoor air still has plenty of heat
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Coils can absorb warmth easily
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Defrost cycles are minimal
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Compressor doesn’t struggle
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Heating capacity stays strong
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Efficiency stays sky-high
During these temperatures, heat pumps deliver:
✔ Fast heating
✔ Cheap operation
✔ Quiet performance
✔ Low strain on the unit
If you live in a mild climate, a heat pump can handle 90%—or even 100%—of your heating needs.
When a Heat Pump Starts to Struggle (Cold Weather Reality)
Heat pumps begin losing steam as temps drop below:
35–40°F
Why?
Because:
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Outdoor coil absorbs less heat
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Unit pulls longer cycles
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Defrost kicks in more often
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Compressor works harder
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Output BTUs decrease
Below 35°F:
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It heats slower
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The room might feel “warm-ish” but not hot
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Unit may run almost nonstop
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Electric backup heat may be needed
Below 25–30°F, small wall-unit heat pumps start tapping out.
This is physics, not brand quality.
Here’s a cold-weather performance concept:
[Heat Pump Temperature Limit Notes]
What Happens During Heat Pump “Defrost Mode” — And Why You Need to Know
In cold weather, the outdoor coil can frost over.
When this happens:
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The unit temporarily switches to AC mode
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It reverses the refrigerant flow
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It melts the frost off the outdoor coil
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Then it switches back to heat mode
During defrost, the unit blows cold air inside.
Electric heat gets rid of this problem entirely — but at a huge operating cost.
Electric Heat: The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly
Electric heat gets a bad reputation because it’s expensive, but it has its place.
The Good
✔ Instant heat
✔ Works in ANY outdoor temperature
✔ No defrost cycles
✔ Simple design
✔ Reliable
✔ Doesn’t lose BTU output in cold weather
The Bad
✘ Very expensive to run
✘ Draws heavy amps
✘ Can overload circuits
✘ Feels “dry”
✘ Inefficient long-term
✘ Worse for continuous heating
The Ugly
In some climates, using electric heat as your main heating source is like lighting money on fire.
Here’s a reference about electric resistance characteristics:
[Electric Resistance Heat Cost Behavior]
**So Which One Saves You More Money?
Tony’s Full Breakdown by Temperature Zone**
This is where it gets good.
1. Mild Climates (California coast, PNW, Southeast spring/fall)
✔ Heat Pump = HERO
Electric heat rarely needed
Lowest bills
2. Moderate Climates (Mid-Atlantic, Midwest, VA, NC, TN)
Heat pump handles ~80–90% of heating
Electric heat used only on very cold days
Total savings: Excellent
3. Cold Climates (New England, upper Midwest, mountains)
Heat pump handles mild days
Electric heat needed frequently
Total savings: Good (but not perfect)
4. Very Cold Climates (Minnesota, North Dakota, Maine interiors)
Heat pump helps in fall/spring
Electric heat runs a LOT in winter
Savings are limited — but still better than electric-only systems.
Real-World Example: How Much Can You Save in One Month?
Let’s say you heat 6 hours per day.
Using only electric heat:
6 hours × $0.70/hour × 30 days = $126/month
Using heat pump whenever possible:
6 hours × $0.18/hour × 30 days = $32/month
Even if electric heat runs for the coldest few days, you still save big.
Savings: $60–$100+ per month
Multiply that over 3–5 heating months, and it’s a no-brainer.
Heat Pump vs Electric Heat for the Amana PBH073J35CC
The Amana heat pump is efficient, stable, and well-built.
The electric heat element is powerful but expensive.
So here’s Tony’s advice:
Use the heat pump for:
✔ Everyday heating
✔ Fall & spring
✔ Mild winter days
✔ Nights above freezing
Use electric heat only when:
✔ Temps drop below 30–35°F
✔ The room won’t warm up
✔ You experience defrost cold air
✔ Rapid reheating is needed
✔ The heat pump stops keeping up
This strategy gives you:
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Comfort
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Speed
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Low utility bills
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Long equipment life
Common Myths About Heat Pumps vs Electric Heat (Tony Debunks Them)
Myth #1: Heat pumps don’t work in cold weather
Wrong — they work, but they lose efficiency.
Myth #2: Electric heat is “better”
Only if you like paying triple.
Myth #3: Heat pumps wear out quickly
Not true — they often last longer because they cycle more gently.
Myth #4: Heat pumps blow cold air
Only during defrost or in very low outdoor temperatures.
Myth #5: Electric heat is safer
Both are safe when installed correctly.
Tony’s Final Verdict
If saving money matters — and it always does — here’s your answer:
✔ A heat pump is ALWAYS cheaper to run.
✔ A heat pump is better for everyday heating.
✔ A heat pump extends equipment life by reducing electric heat strain.
✔ Electric heat should only be your backup or “boost” option.
And the Amana PBH073J35CC is one of the best small-room heat pump units on the market in its class.
Use the heat pump from 40°F and up.
Use electric heat only when you absolutely need it.
Do that, and you’ll stay comfortable AND keep your bills under control.
Maintenance checklist will be provided in the next blog.
