Heat Pump vs Electric Heat in PTAC Units: What’s the Difference? Tony Makes It Simple

🌀 Let’s Start with the Basics

When you buy a PTAC unit like the Amana Distinctions 14,700 BTU with Heat Pump and 3.5 kW Backup Heat, you’re not just getting one heating system—you’re getting two:

  • A heat pump for primary heating

  • A resistance electric heater as backup

Now, these two systems do the same job—heating your space—but they go about it in very different ways, and knowing which one kicks in (and when) is key to understanding your energy bill and comfort.


🔄 What’s a Heat Pump, Anyway?

A heat pump moves heat instead of generating it. In the winter, it pulls warmth from the outside air and transfers it inside. Yes, even cold air has heat energy!

Pros:

  • Super energy efficient (uses electricity to move heat, not create it)

  • Lower operating cost in mild to moderate climates

  • Quiet operation

Cons:

  • Loses efficiency when temps drop below ~35°F

  • May struggle in uninsulated or drafty rooms


🔥 What’s Electric Backup Heat?

Also called resistance heat or electric strip heat, this is basically a set of metal coils inside the PTAC. When the unit senses the heat pump isn’t keeping up, it kicks on the electric heat.

Pros:

  • Reliable heat no matter how cold it gets

  • Heats up fast

  • Good for emergency situations

Cons:

  • Energy hog—can triple your electric usage

  • Only meant for short bursts, not all-day use


⚙️ How Do They Work Together?

In a dual heat PTAC unit like the Amana 14,700 BTU model:

  1. The heat pump runs as the primary source.

  2. When temps drop too low—or the room temp can’t keep up—the electric heater activates automatically.

  3. The unit’s thermostat or internal sensor determines when backup heat is needed.

This seamless system gives you the best of both worlds—efficient heating most of the time and full heat power when it really matters.


đź’ˇ Tech Tip from Tony

Want to save money in the winter?

➡️ Set your PTAC unit to “Heat Pump Only” mode (if available) during milder days.
➡️ Use electric backup heat sparingly—it’s there for emergencies, not everyday comfort.

Also, keep filters clean and the coils free of dust so the heat pump can work at full efficiency. A dirty filter can knock down performance fast.


🔍 Real-World Example

I once got called to a 20-room motel where the owner thought the PTACs were defective because “they cost too much to run.” Turned out all the thermostats were set to force electric heat 24/7—even on 50°F days.

We reprogrammed the units to prioritize the heat pump, and his power bill dropped by nearly 40% the next month. That’s the kind of thing that makes a difference.


đź›’ Buying the Right Heat Combo

When you’re shopping for a PTAC:

  • Look for a unit that includes a heat pump + electric backup, like the Amana 14,700 BTU Heat Pump PTAC

  • Make sure the electric heat kit size matches your room size and circuit

  • Understand the climate you’re in: cold climates = more electric backup usage


🔚 Final Word from Tony the Tech

You don’t have to choose between heat pump or electric—you can have both. And when you get a PTAC unit that uses them the right way, you’ll stay warm without wasting watts.

Bottom line? Use the heat pump as much as you can. Let the backup heat be your wingman—not the pilot.

Got more questions about heat kits, BTUs, or energy bills? I’ve seen it all. Hit us up at The Furnace Outlet and let’s keep your rooms running right.


đź”— Related Resources

In the Next topic you will read about: How Many Amps Does a 3.5 kW PTAC Heat Kit Use?

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