🔁 Dual Heat: What Makes This PTAC Special?
The Amana Distinctions 14,700 BTU PTAC comes with two ways to heat your room:
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Heat Pump Mode – runs like an air conditioner in reverse
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Electric Heat Backup – kicks in when the heat pump can’t keep up
This combo makes it energy-efficient in mild weather and powerful enough in freezing temps.
❄️ How a Heat Pump Works in a PTAC
A heat pump grabs heat from the outside air, even when it’s cold, and pushes it indoors. It’s surprisingly efficient because it moves heat instead of creating it.
Pros of Heat Pump Mode:
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Uses less electricity
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Lower utility bills
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Quieter operation
But there’s a catch…
When the temp outside drops too low (around 35°F or below), the heat pump starts losing efficiency fast.
🔥 When the Electric Heat Takes Over
That’s where the 3.5 kW electric heat kit comes in. It’s like a giant space heater built into the unit. When the heat pump can’t do the job, the backup kicks on.
You might hear it called:
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Resistive heat
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Strip heat
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Emergency heat
Pros of Electric Heat:
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Instant warmth
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Works in freezing temps
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Reliable backup on the coldest nights
Cons:
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High power draw (~15–17 amps)
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Raises your electric bill
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Harder on your circuit if not sized properly
🤔 How Do You Know Which Is Running?
A lot of customers ask me:
“Tony, is it using the heat pump or the electric heat right now?”
Here’s how to tell:
| Clue | What It Means |
|---|---|
| PTAC is running quietly | Heat pump is on |
| PTAC makes a “click” and blower ramps up | Backup heat just kicked in |
| Big jump in power usage (smart plug, breaker draw) | Electric heat is running |
| Temp outside below 35°F | Likely switched to electric |
| Thermostat set >5°F above room temp | Both might be running |
💡 Tony’s Pro Tip: Don’t Crank It
A common mistake I see:
Customer turns the thermostat way up trying to warm the room fast.
That causes the electric heat to kick in unnecessarily. Instead, raise the temp in small increments (2–3 degrees at a time) to stay in heat pump mode longer.
⚙️ Should You Use Electric Heat All the Time?
You can, but I don’t recommend it unless:
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The outside temp is below 30°F
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Your room loses heat quickly (like a sunroom or corner unit)
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You need fast, reliable heat for guests or vulnerable folks
Electric heat is great when you need it, but the heat pump is cheaper and more efficient most of the time.
📈 Energy Use Comparison (Approx.)
| Mode | Power Used | Typical Cost/Hour |
|---|---|---|
| Heat Pump | ~1.0–1.5 kW | ~$0.13–$0.20 |
| Electric Heat | 3.5 kW | ~$0.45–$0.65 |
That’s 3x the energy when electric heat is running. It adds up.
🔧 Maintenance Tip: Keep Coils Clean
To get the best performance from your PTAC:
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Clean the outside coil seasonally (fall/spring)
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Vacuum or wash the indoor filter monthly
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Make sure nothing blocks airflow at the front grille
Dirty coils = low efficiency = heat pump can't keep up = electric heat runs more = higher bills.
🔗 Further Reading and Tools
✅ Final Thoughts from Tony
If you're using a PTAC like the Amana Distinctions, let the heat pump do the heavy lifting. Keep your filters clean, don’t crank the temp, and save the electric heat for when Mother Nature really brings the cold.
Trust your unit—it’s built to switch automatically, and if you set it up right, it’ll keep you comfy without shocking your power bill.
In the Next topic you will read about: What Does “Heat Pump with Electric Backup” Really Mean?
