Heat Pump vs Backup Electric Heat Strip: Which One Actually Saves You Money? 

If you’re here because your thermostat suddenly says “AUX HEAT” or “EM HEAT”, and your electric bill jumped like it saw a ghost, listen carefully. You’re likely paying 2–4× more for the same heat — all because your system switched from 9000 BTU heat pump mode to electric heat strip mode.

This guide is the real-world, field-tested breakdown you need — the one most installers won’t bother explaining. I’ll walk you through:

• What heat pumps and strip heaters really do

• How much does each cost per hour

• When a heat pump should handle heating alone

• When strip heat kicks in

• A performance chart with real numbers

• How to stop your system from draining your wallet

• Links to verify everything from trusted, legit sources

No fluff. No sugar-coating. Just the truth, homeowners wish someone had told them before they got slapped with a $480 electric bill in January.

Let’s get into it.

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1. Heat Pump vs Electric Heat Strip: Jake’s Straight Talk

Before we talk dollars, let’s talk about how each system delivers heat.

1.1 What a Heat Pump Does

A heat pump moves heat, not creates it. It extracts low-grade heat from outside air and relocates it indoors. Even when it’s cold, there’s usable heat outside.

This is why heat pumps are so efficient — they’re transporting heat instead of generating it.

A properly operating heat pump gives you:

• 2 to 4 units of heat for every 1 unit of electricity

• Quiet operation

• Lower energy bills

• Steady comfort

You can verify heat pump efficiency basics straight at Energy.gov:
Energy.gov Heat Pump Overview – https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/heat-pump-systems

1.2 What Heat Strips Do

Electric heat strips are basically giant hair-dryer coils inside your air handler. They heat up electrically and rely on the blower to push warm air through your ducts.

They are 100% efficient — meaning 1 kW of electricity = 1 kW of heat.

Sounds good? It’s not.

Heat strips are “efficient” only in the thermodynamic sense — not in the bill-paying sense.

Heat pumps deliver 200–400% efficiency. Heat strips give you 100%.
Guess which one is cheaper to run.

1.3 Why Heat Strips Exist

They’re for:

• Backup heating in freezing temperatures

• Emergency heat when the heat pump is malfunctioning

• Short bursts of supplemental heat on extremely cold mornings

The keyword is backup.
They are not designed to run all day.

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2. Cost Per Hour: Heat Pump vs Electric Heat Strip (Field-Verified)

Here’s the breakdown your electric bill wishes you knew last winter.

These numbers use a U.S. national average of $0.15 per kWh. You can verify state averages on the U.S. Energy Information Administration website:
EIA Electric Rates – https://www.eia.gov/electricity/monthly/

2.1 Heat Pump – Cost Per Hour

A heat pump draws 2–4 kWh per hour depending on tonnage and outdoor temps.

Cost per hour:

• Low load: 2 kWh × $0.15 = $0.30/hr

• Heavy load: 4 kWh × $0.15 = $0.60/hr

Real-world heating cost for most homes:
$0.30–$0.60 per hour

2.2 Electric Heat Strips – Cost Per Hour

Most homes have 5 kW, 7.5 kW, 10 kW, or 15 kW heat strips.

Let’s do the math:

• 5 kW → 5 × $0.15 = $0.75/hr

• 10 kW → 10 × $0.15 = $1.50/hr

• 15 kW → 15 × $0.15 = $2.25/hr

Real-world range:
$0.75–$2.25 per hour

2.3 Side-by-Side Cost Summary

This is why homeowners freak out when the “AUX HEAT” light comes on.
And they should.

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3. Heating Performance Chart (Real-World Numbers)

Below is Jake’s simplified performance chart showing how heat output changes with outdoor temperature.

3.1 Heat Pump Output vs Heat Strip Output

Heat strips produce consistent output because they're resistive elements.
Heat pumps lose capacity as outdoor temperature drops.

If you want to explore heat pump performance deeper, manufacturer tables are found in the AHRI Directory:
AHRI Directory – https://www.ahridirectory.org

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4. When You Should Rely on the Heat Pump (Jake’s Rules)

For 90% of the U.S., your heat pump should handle heating down to 25–35°F without strip heat being needed continuously.

Here are the rules I use in the field:

Rule #1 — Above 40°F

Your heat pump should carry 100% of the heating load.
If strip heat is running in this temperature range, something is wrong.

Rule #2 — 35°F to 25°F

Your heat pump should carry 70–90% of the heating. Strip heat may assist during defrost cycles or extreme demand.

Rule #3 — 25°F to 15°F

Heat pump may handle 40–60% of the heating. Strip heat will cycle more often.

Rule #4 — Below 15°F

Heat pump is barely contributing.
Strip heat becomes the dominant heat source.

Rule #5 — Defrost Cycles

Expect short bursts of auxiliary heat.
This is normal.

Rule #6 — Emergency Heat

Only use it if your outdoor unit is frozen, broken, or iced over like a popsicle.

A defrost explanation is available on the Energy Star site:
EPA Energy Star Heat Pump Info – https://www.energystar.gov/products/heating_cooling/heat_pumps

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5. When Strip Heat Kicks In (There Are Three Triggers)

Homeowners think strip heat is random. It’s not. It’s triggered by logic.

5.1 Trigger #1 — Thermostat “Delta-T Demand.”

If your thermostat is set to 72°F and your home is 69°F, it sees a 3° difference.
Most thermostats activate strip heat at a 2–3 degree gap.

You can change this setting on many modern thermostats.

5.2 Trigger #2 — Outdoor Temperature Lockout

Your system may have an outdoor sensor that says:

“Below X°, activate strip heat.”

Common factory defaults:

• 35°F

• 30°F

• 25°F

Your installer can adjust this. Most never do.

5.3 Trigger #3 — Defrost Cycle

During defrost, the heat pump temporarily goes into cooling mode to melt the outdoor coil.

Strip heat kicks in to avoid blowing cold air into your home.

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6. Why Strip Heat Costs So Much (Jake’s Real Explanation)

Electric heat strips are 100% electric resistance heat. That means:

• No combustion

• No outside heat gain

• No amplification

• No leverage

Just raw electrical consumption.

A 10 kW strip pulls 10,000 watts, constantly, for as long as it’s running.

To put that into perspective:

• Heat pump = like running 1–2 space heaters

• 10 kW heat strip = like running 9 or 10 space heaters at once

That’s why your electric meter spins like a fidget spinner on Red Bull.

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7. The Role of Defrost (and Why Mike Shouldn’t Panic When Steam Comes Out)

Mike — this part is for you, buddy.

When your heat pump looks like it’s “smoking,” it’s just steam from defrost. Not a fire. Not an explosion. Not a meltdown.

What’s actually happening

1. Outdoor coil freezes over.

2. System temporarily reverses into cooling.

3. Strip heat inside turns on to offset cold air.

4. Ice melts and steam appears.

5. Heat pump returns to normal.

Defrost is why heat pumps need strip heat — but only briefly.

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8. Heat Pump vs Heat Strip Efficiency (Numbers Don’t Lie)

8.1 Heat Pump Efficiency

Typical HSPF2 ratings translate to seasonal efficiencies 2–4× that of electric heat.

You can explore HSPF2 and SEER2 basics here:
Energy Star Heating Efficiency Basics – https://www.energystar.gov/products/heating_cooling/air_conditioning

8.2 Heat Strip Efficiency

Always 100%
Never higher
Never lower
Just expensive

8.3 Real Cost Comparison Over a Season

Home running 5 hours/day for 90 days:

Heat Pump
5 hrs × 90 days × $0.45/hr = $202.50

10 kW Strip
5 hrs × 90 days × $1.50/hr = $675

Difference: $472.50 saved by not using strip heat.

If strip heat runs for 2 months straight? Expect $300–$900 increases.

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9. How to Keep Strip Heat From Running Too Much (Jake’s List)

These tips will save you hundreds — sometimes thousands — per winter.

9.1 Install a Lockout Temperature

Set strip heat lockout to:

• 30°F in moderate climates

• 25°F in colder climates

9.2 Increase Stage 2 Timer

Tell your thermostat not to call for strip heat unless the heat pump has been running 15–20 minutes without reaching the set point.

9.3 Fix Airflow Problems

If airflow is low, the heat pump’s performance tanks and strip heat activates sooner.

Common airflow issues:

• Dirty filters

• Undersized ducts

• Weak blower settings

• Blocked returns

9.4 Don’t Use Large Set Point Jumps

Going from 65°F to 72°F will instantly trigger strip heat.

9.5 Use Programmable and Smart Thermostats

Thermostats like the Honeywell T9 or Ecobee learn your home and avoid running strips unnecessarily.

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10. Heat Pump and Strip Heat: The System Design Matters

A heat pump is a high-efficiency machine. A heat strip is a blunt tool.
To get the most out of the system, the two must be properly sized.

10.1 Typical Heat Strip Sizes

• 5 kW for small homes

• 7.5 kW for mid-size

• 10 kW for 2–3 ton systems

• 15 kW for 4–5 ton systems

Oversized strips = oversized bills.

10.2 Proper Heat Pump Sizing

If the heat pump is undersized, strip heat will run too often.
If oversized, the heat pump short-cycles and still calls for strips during rapid recovery.

Load calculations prevent this.
You can read the industry standard ACCA Manual J basics here:
ACCA Manual J Overview – https://www.acca.org/hvac/technical/manual-j

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11. Defrost, Ice, and Emergency Heat: When to Call a Tech

Strip heat running occasionally is normal.
Strip heat running constantly is not.

Call a pro if:

• Your outdoor unit is frozen solid

• You have loud humming from the heat strips

• AUX HEAT runs above 40°F

• EM HEAT turns on without you selecting it

• Airflow is weak

• The blower is noisy

• The electric bill doubled

Heat strips are a symptom — not the root cause.
The real issues often include:

• Refrigerant leak

• Low airflow

• Faulty reversing valve

• Defective outdoor sensor

• Failed defrost board

• Dirty coil

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12. Mythbusting: Heat Pump vs Heat Strip

Myth #1: “Heat pumps don’t work below 30°F.”

False. Modern heat pumps work well down to 5°F–20°F, depending on brand and model.

Myth #2: “Strip heat is bad.”

No — strip heat is necessary.
It’s just expensive.

Myth #3: “Emergency heat warms a house faster.”

Nope. It just empties your wallet faster.

Myth #4: “Gas heat is always cheaper.”

Depends on your region and utility rates.

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Conclusion

Let’s wrap this up with the straightest straight talk I can give.

Heat Pump = Your Wallet’s Best Friend

• Costs 70–85% less to run

• Handles heating most of the time

• Works in low temps

• Efficient in almost all U.S. climates

Heat Strips = The Nuclear Option

• 3–7× more expensive

• Should only run in extreme cold, defrost cycles, or emergencies

• Not for continuous use

• It will turn a mild winter into a financial winter

What You Should Do Right Now

• Set strip heat lockout

• Avoid big set-point jumps

• Improve airflow

• Install a smart thermostat

• Get your heat pump checked annually

Heat pumps are incredible when used correctly.
Heat strips are lifesavers when used intentionally.
But when strip heat runs unchecked?
Your electric bill will remind you — brutally — every single month.

This has been Jake, keeping it real, keeping it technical, and keeping you from paying $2.25 an hour for lukewarm air.

In the next blog, you will learn about Professional Installation Rules for Amana 9k PTAC Units