When I started shopping for a new PTAC unit for my rental property, one of the first specs I ran into was EER and CEER. I’ll be honest — I glazed over them at first. All I wanted was a reliable heating and cooling unit that wouldn’t skyrocket my utility bills. But when you’re comparing brands like Amana, GE, and Hotpoint, those numbers start to matter.
After living with the Amana Distinctions 14,700 BTU PTAC with Heat Pump and 3.5 kW Electric Backup for over a year, I can tell you: understanding EER and CEER isn’t just about numbers on a spec sheet. It’s about knowing how much you’ll really pay each month and how efficient the unit will be once it’s running day in and day out.
This guide will break down exactly what EER and CEER mean, how Amana’s ratings stack up, and the real-world lessons I learned after switching from an older PTAC to this newer Amana model.
📘 What Is EER? (Energy Efficiency Ratio)
At its core, EER (Energy Efficiency Ratio) is a simple calculation:
EER = Cooling Capacity (BTUs) ÷ Power Input (Watts)
In plain English, it measures how efficiently a unit can provide cooling under a steady load. For example:
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A PTAC delivering 14,700 BTUs of cooling while consuming 1,500 watts would have an EER of 9.8.
The higher the EER, the less electricity your unit uses to deliver the same amount of cooling.
👉 Where EER matters most:
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Hot summer days when the unit is running continuously.
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Hotels and apartments where PTACs often run all day in occupied rooms.
The U.S. Department of Energy sets minimum efficiency standards, and most PTACs fall in the 9.0 to 12.0 EER range depending on BTU size and design .
Learn more from the Department of Energy on EER standards.
📗 What Is CEER? (Combined Energy Efficiency Ratio)
While EER focuses on performance during peak operation, CEER (Combined Energy Efficiency Ratio) goes one step further.
It accounts for:
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Cooling output vs. energy input (like EER).
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Standby and off-mode energy consumption.
This is a game-changer for homeowners and property managers. Why? Because PTACs don’t just run when they’re cooling or heating — they also sit idle, drawing a small but steady amount of power.
For example:
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A PTAC might have a solid EER of 10.0, but if it consumes a lot of energy in standby mode, the CEER might drop to 9.3.
👉 Where CEER matters most:
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Guest rooms that aren’t always occupied.
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Apartments where units are left plugged in year-round.
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Anyone concerned about hidden standby costs.
The EPA’s Energy Star program began requiring CEER as the rating standard in 2014, since it reflects total annual efficiency more accurately than EER alone .
Energy Star explains CEER here.
🏷️ Amana PTAC Ratings Explained
Now let’s bring it back to the Amana Distinctions 14,700 BTU PTAC.
Amana has long been known for durability and consistent efficiency. For this model size:
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Typical EER: ~9.7–10.0
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Typical CEER: ~9.3–9.5
That’s not the highest on the market (some premium PTACs push 11+ EER), but it’s right in the sweet spot for balancing cost, performance, and reliability.
Compared with competitors:
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GE Zoneline models often post similar numbers, though their standby consumption can sometimes be higher.
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Hotpoint PTACs may come in slightly cheaper but often with lower CEER, meaning higher hidden standby costs.
For me, the deciding factor wasn’t just the number. It was Amana’s reputation for real-world reliability and the way they balance heat pump efficiency with backup electric heat.
Amana’s PTAC product library has official ratings and manuals.
🧾 Mark’s Real-World Takeaways
Here’s where numbers met reality for me.
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Old PTAC (all-electric, ~8.5 EER, no CEER rating):
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Average winter bill for a 350 sq. ft. rental space: ~$120–130/month.
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Amana 14,700 BTU Heat Pump PTAC (~9.8 EER, 9.4 CEER):
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Shoulder seasons (heat pump mode): ~$35–40/month.
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Winter months with backup heat kicking in: ~$90–110/month.
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That’s a 20–25% savings compared to my old system, just from upgrading efficiency.
The biggest surprise? CEER was the more accurate predictor. Even when the unit wasn’t running, it was still sipping power — and that showed up on my bill.
👉 My lesson: Always look at CEER, not just EER.
💰 How Efficiency Ratings Affect Your Wallet
Let’s put some numbers behind it.
Say you’re choosing between two PTAC units for a small apartment:
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Unit A: 14,700 BTU, EER 9.0
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Unit B (Amana): 14,700 BTU, EER 10.0
At an average electricity cost of $0.15/kWh, and assuming ~1,500 cooling hours per year:
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Unit A annual cost: ~$245
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Unit B annual cost: ~$220
That’s about $25 savings per year, or $125 over 5 years. And that’s just cooling — heating savings are even greater if you’re switching from all-electric to Amana’s dual heat system.
EnergyStar’s cost savings calculator
🛠️ What to Look for When Shopping for PTACs
After doing my homework (and living with the Amana), here’s my checklist for comparing units:
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✅ CEER first → This tells you the most about real-world efficiency.
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✅ EER second → Useful for comparing peak cooling efficiency.
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✅ Heat pump availability → Lowers costs in moderate climates.
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✅ Backup electric heater size → Enough to handle cold snaps.
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✅ Brand reputation → A slightly lower efficiency rating can still be worth it if the unit is more reliable.
For my money, Amana hit the sweet spot: solid CEER, dependable backup heating, and proven reliability in multi-room setups.
ASHRAE’s efficiency guidelines can help if you want to dive deeper into technical standards.
📊 Infographic: “EER vs. CEER – What’s the Difference?”
Layout Idea:
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Left side:
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Formula: Cooling BTUs ÷ Watts.
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Visual: Sun icon + running fan.
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Label: “Measures peak cooling efficiency.”
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Right side:
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Formula: Cooling BTUs ÷ (Watts + Standby Power).
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Visual: Moon icon + idle unit.
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Label: “Includes standby/off-mode use.”
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Bottom: Mark’s takeaway:
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“CEER gave me the truest picture of my utility bills.”
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✅ Final Takeaways from Mark
If you’re considering the Amana Distinctions 14,700 BTU PTAC (or any PTAC for that matter), here’s my advice:
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Don’t just glance at EER — look for the CEER rating.
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Amana’s ratings (around 9.8 EER and 9.4 CEER) aren’t flashy, but they’re solid and dependable.
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In the real world, CEER lined up almost exactly with what I saw on my power bills.
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Over a few years, even a one-point jump in EER/CEER can save you hundreds of dollars.
So yes, efficiency ratings matter — but only if you know how to read them. And trust me, Amana’s balance of efficiency, heating flexibility, and reliability makes those numbers worth paying attention to.
