It All Starts With Airflow: What Is CFM, Really?
Before we can talk ducts, we’ve got to talk CFM—Cubic Feet per Minute. CFM tells us how much air your HVAC system moves every minute. Think of it like the lungs of your home. Every room needs a certain amount of air to feel just right. Get the CFM wrong, and you get hot bedrooms, cold living rooms, and cranky guests.
For a typical A/C unit, assume 400 CFM per ton. But don't stop there—use Manual J load calculations for accuracy. This ensures every room gets the air it truly needs, not just a best guess.
If you're in the market for equipment, check out our R32 AC and Gas Furnace Systems that pair efficiency with strong airflow capacity.
The Hidden Force Behind the Flow: Static Pressure
Imagine blowing through a long straw vs. a short one. The harder it is to blow, the higher the static pressure. In HVAC, it’s the resistance to airflow, measured in inches of water column (in. wc). Too much, and your blower works overtime. Too little, and airflow becomes unpredictable.
You’ll want to measure Total External Static Pressure (TESP)—what the fan can handle. Then subtract drops from components like filters and coils to get your Available Static Pressure (ASP).
Common Pressure Drops:
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Coils: 0.15–0.25 in. wc
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Filters: 0.05–0.20 in. wc
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Grilles/Dampers: 0.03–0.10 in. wc
Looking to swap out a filter or upgrade a coil? Browse HVAC accessories to minimize these pressure hogs.
Mapping the Route: Measuring Total Effective Length
Now let’s map the “road” your air travels. The Total Effective Length (TEL) includes all straight ducts and “traffic jams” like elbows or transitions. A 90-degree elbow might only be 12 inches long—but it can add 30-50 feet of effective length!
How to Measure TEL:
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Add the actual lengths of all ducts.
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Add equivalent lengths from fittings using a chart.
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Total it up—that’s your TEL.
The longer the TEL, the more pressure your blower needs to push air to the end. This is critical when planning diy ductless mini-splits or long duct runs in larger homes.
Cracking the Code: Friction Rate Formula
Here’s where math meets real-world HVAC. The friction rate tells you how much static pressure you can spend per 100 feet of duct.
Use this formula:
Friction Rate = (Available Static Pressure / Total Effective Length) × 100
For example:
ASP = 0.2 in. wc
TEL = 150 ft
Friction Rate = (0.2 / 150) × 100 = 0.13 in. wc/100ft
This number is key to finding the right duct size. Too high? You risk noise and blower strain. Too low? Ducts get oversized and inefficient.
Choosing the Right Size: Ductulator to the Rescue
Now that you know your CFM and friction rate, enter them into a ductulator—a tool used to size ducts. Manual or digital, it helps determine the correct duct diameter.
Example:
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400 CFM @ 0.13 friction = 8” round duct
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Or 8x14” rectangular for tight spaces
Use our handy duct sizing chart as a quick reference team for help with layout.
Velocity Matters: Adjusting for Quiet Comfort
Air that moves too fast whistles, vibrates ducts, or blasts out grilles. That’s why velocity is just as important as size.
Recommended Max Velocities:
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Supply ducts: 900–1,000 FPM (feet per minute)
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Return ducts: 700–800 FPM
If velocity is too high after sizing, increase duct size or reduce the number of bends and transitions.
Return Ducts Need Love Too
Most folks focus on supply ducts, but return ducts are just as important. If air can’t return smoothly, your system can’t breathe—and static pressure skyrockets.
Tips:
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Return ducts should handle total system CFM
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Keep return velocities lower than supply
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Use large, smooth-radius fittings
Need to upsize your return? Air handlers with large return connections make it easier to retrofit older systems.
Don’t Guess—Balance
Once your ducts are sized, you’re not done. Balancing ensures each room gets the right amount of air. Otherwise, you might still get uneven temps—even with perfect duct sizes.
Balancing Tools:
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Manual dampers to fine-tune flow
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Flow hoods or anemometers to measure actual CFM
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Room-by-room pressure checks
Balancing is especially important for hotel heat & air units and multi-room VTAC units.
What Happens If You Get It Wrong?
Bad duct sizing leads to big headaches:
Problem |
If Too Small |
If Too Large |
Efficiency |
High energy use |
Poor distribution |
Comfort |
Hot/cold spots |
Uneven airflow |
Noise |
Whistling, rattling |
Reduced, but possible velocity issues |
System Wear |
Blower stress |
Short cycling |
Operating Cost |
High bills |
Still high if unbalanced |
Want to skip the guesswork? Our HVAC Help Center has quick guides and free tools.
Tools of the Trade: What the Pros Use
When we’re in the field, here’s what’s always in our bag:
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Ductulator (manual or app)
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Manometer to measure static pressure
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Laser tape for duct lengths
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Friction charts from Manual D
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Flow hoods to test output
Want to DIY with confidence? Pair your tools with reliable gear from our DIY ductless mini-splits.
Know When to Call a Pro
There’s no shame in calling for backup—especially if you're tackling a retrofit or large system. Complex layouts, zoning, or long runs need a pro’s eye.
Our Design Center helps you plan the right system and ductwork combo before you buy. We’ll review your space, needs, and specs.
Bringing It All Together: Your Smart Duct Design Plan
Here’s a quick recap of your duct-sizing roadmap:
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Calculate room-by-room CFM using Manual J
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Measure TESP and subtract component drops
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Add up TEL including fittings
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Find your friction rate
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Use a ductulator to size ducts
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Check velocity and adjust
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Size and balance return ducts
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Balance the entire system
Accurate duct sizing isn’t just a “nice to have”, it’s the backbone of a quiet, efficient HVAC system. Whether you’re upgrading your room A/C we’re here to make sure your air moves the right way, for years to come.